Shock upper mounts attached to frame, more drilling. Took the driveshaft out, it needs to get stretched 9.5"
There's a lot going on here that isn't visible- the air bags needed adapter plates to spread their force to the frame. And with lots of rivet heads that meant, you guessed it, more drilling. Then holes to mount the bags to the frame.
As I left her, ready for the fuel tank to be fitted. I have an actual Isuzu in frame tank, with the correct brackets, so next trip will be finishing the brake lines and adding the fuel tank and lines. Best part is, the fuel tank will attach without any drilling.
Wow I guess I lost your phone number , and my memory isn’t too hot. I didn’t remember or know about wood on earlier than my 48. I just hauled what was left of my second truck to Tom Warren Amarillo. How big are those front brakes ,I’m useing 1 ton Chevy.
Turbo location is an issue. As stock, it is not possible to simply bolt on due to the steering column and brake master locations. Two options, one down and back, tucked in and the other to go high and forward. Hung the stock turbo on the rear studs to suss out the rear and low location. Tight, which is nice in some ways, but certainly an option. Plumbing will be an issue, there is a lot going on in the area.
First go with the CAD is high and forward. Changing the turbo foot from the stock Isuzu to be TD04 from a Saab and moved between cylinders 1 and 2. Advantage here is serviceability, lots of access and keeping the heat away from the cab. Having a custom manifold would make for a very clean installation, no adapters and so fewer exhaust unions to potentially fail. And I can cast the DT logo into the manifold, making it look more correct. The original manifolds are pretty. Test print of the first 2 ports and the turbo foot started to allow for test fitment in the truck.
More detail on why it has to be this way... Stock location has the compressor wheel rearwards, which puts the compressor into the cab firewall. I've already cut too much out of my foot box, and honestly want to go back on some of the cab changes. The turbo therefore needs to flip to have the exhaust compressor outlet pointing rearward. Here's the stock 4BD2 layout: This has clearance issues with the cab, the steering column and the brake master. (Yes, I considered going RHD!)
There is also the option to flip the turbo up. Am considering this as a fabricated part, or also as a printed and cast piece. Issue is that I'm adding additional failure points and expansion joints. Probably the fastest option to get back on the road though!
This is getting extra cool now. Reminds me of when I was a teen (early 80's) and dad was putting twin turbos on his AMC powered jet boat. Lot's of fabrication and figuring as this was not a bolt on project. I vote durability and serviceability.
48 hours and 37 minutes later we have two halves of the manifold ready. They fit properly on my spare head which is always a nice thing to see. I really appreciate DeerWife for the 3D printer, falls into best gift ever territory... Next step: get back out to the truck and test fit for best turbo location, check for any fine tuning to the design before doing some investment casting.
So the turbo foot is correct, the manifold studs line up and the manifold generally fits. Block side plates stick out 1.5", more than expected so the turbo foot needs to move away from the block quite a bit. Between the two locations I'm happier with the rear and low as the exhaust piping has more of a chance to exit cleanly. So time to get back on the CAD box....
Since the intake is going to exit downwards to get to the intercooler, a straight shot between frame rail and engine while avoiding the starter and the engine cross member means a 10° angle is needed for the foot with centerline between runners 2 and 3. Putting the exit in the center of the manifold should contribute to more even flow between runners. It does get tight against the back of the alternator, will have to fit check before casting. More CAD time:
So there's good reason for printing these test items out. Seems like a brilliant design at 6AM, 100 miles away from the truck- and slightly less attractive in person. Gets real close to the steering linkage, not enough room against the alternator, ugh.
More detail on what isn't modeled, and yet is in the way: Oil dipstick tube and frame-wastegate clearance.
Moving back from 2-3 to 3-4 gives lots more room for the intake pipe. Will move the foot up 1" to give clearance for the wastegate against the frame, and I can pull it in 1/4" as well.
Thermostat housing had a blanking plug in one position; Now modified for stock DT bulb to drive the temp gage.
Intake hard pipe clipped for the flange, pipe turned on the lathe with retaining bump for spigot and welded in place. The ø2.5" 90° silicone hose fits nicely and allows the pipe to sneak under and through.
The Jalopy Journal
