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Technical Updating Mechanical Brakes on a 1935 IHC C-1

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by docsrodshop, Mar 22, 2021.

  1. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm in the process of rodding a 1935 IHC C-1 pickup. Right now I'm woking to upgrade the original mechanical brakes to late '60s Ford drum brakes. The International has a strange setup on the hubs and drums where the outer bearing and race are in the hub which then bolts to the drum which houses the inner bearing and race so that both parts are needed to support the wheel. I had originally hoped to use the Ford drums with the IHC hubs but no dice.

    So I bought a pair of trailer hubs (3000 pound axle) for the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. The bearing spacing is close enough to use but the bearing inner diameters are significantly larger than spindles. The OE bearings are Timken 14130 for the inner and 89874 (which I can't find in the Timken catalog) for the outer. . The trailer hubs use L68149 inner and L44649 outers. I've scoured the Timken catalog trying to find bearings that will fit both the spindles and the races in the new hubs but haven't had any luck. Ideally, that's all I would need (and something like a National 452872 seal) to make all this work.

    But, if there are no appropriate bearings available, I'm thinking that sleeving the spindles at the bearing locations to increase the spindle diameters might be a possibility.
    I'd want the sleeves to have slightly smaller inside diameters that the diameters of the spindles so that when heated and installed they would fit tight to the spindles and not rotate with the bearings or, in the case of the inner sleeve, not migrate outwards. I suppose that I could also tack weld them to the spindles if that's a better solution.

    So I'm curious if anyone has done something like this and can offer advice, suggestions or part numbers for appropriate replacement bearings. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

    - Glenn IHC Spindle.jpg IHC Hub.jpg IHC Brake Drum.jpg
     
  2. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,972

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    How about machining the outer part of the drum off and using just the center/hub with a different drum or rotor. Might actually be easier to use a rotor"hat" that fits over the hub rather than trying to make drums/backing plates fit the spindles....
    I did this with my 36 Hudson hubs.
    BTW here is the inner bearing, but I can't find the outer... are you sure that # is right?
    https://www.amazon.com/Timken-Tapered-Standard-Tolerance-Straight/dp/B0071AWV9A
     
  3. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
  4. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The inner bearing rides in the drum which is is almost 13" in diameter. I suppose that the drum itself could be cut from the bearing support part and longer wheel studs installed to account for the thickness of the drum, but there should be another way. I want to keep the drums to match the period look I'm going for with the truck. And, like you, I can't find that bearing number in the catalog.

    Many thanks.

    - Glenn

    Timken 89874.jpg
     
  5. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,822

    stuart in mn
    Member

    It appears there are a couple companies out there offering a disk brake kit for your truck if you may want to go that way, but they aren't a cheap solution.
     
  6. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,907

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sleeving the spindle is pretty routine in a lot of hot rod applications. Many inner bearing sleeves incorporate the inner seal surface. Some outter sleeves have a inner lip to facilitate installation. In your case you will most likely need to make your own sleeves. Typical installation calls for heating the sleeve or freezing the spindle.
     
  7. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've seen those and they're not cheap and disc brakes don't fit with the early '50s feel I'm going for. I did find out that I've misread the outer bearing number which is actually 09074 although to these old eyes those zeros look a lot like eights.

    - Glenn
     
  8. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,907

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  9. A hot trick in the 70s was an AMC bolt on spindle. You machine off your stock spindle and the AMC parts bolt on. Worked on ford at least, I would compare the bolt patterns to see if that is an option. I did it on a HenryJ, Ford built the front suspension on those. Think shoebox.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  10. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 836

    brading
    Member

    If I understand right you want to use your trailer hubs fitted with 60's Ford drums correct. Did you ever think of just converting your original to hydraulics
     
  11. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had considered that until I discovered how hard (and expensive) it was going to be to round up all the parts from backing plates to wheel cylinders to shoes to hardware to new drums to ...

    I think the sleeves will work just fine and brake parts for late '60s Fords are easy to get.

    - Glenn
     
  12. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,870

    goldmountain

    Check if later International brakes or brake and spindle would fit your axle.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31Apickup likes this.
  13. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 836

    brading
    Member

    Should have made myself clear was more thinking of replacing the mechical actuator with a hydraulic cylinder on the original back plate and drum, with a possble mod on the original brake shoes. The pictures show how it was done on a Ford Thames. Will carry on watching this thread with interest to see the final result.
    -Paul
     

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  14. docsrodshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 36

    docsrodshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm going to try the sleeve route so I'm curious about the proper material to make them from and how much undersize the bores in the sleeves should be in order to have them stay secure after heating and installing them and if I should have the outer diameters made smaller to allow for that shrinkage.

    - Glenn
     

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