Build thread for my 54 210. Found this running and driving 54 about 10 miles from my house, 235 Inline 6 (appears to be a truck motor by the numbers) a factory 3spd on the column, mostly original and very rust free (by FL standards) First up is the transmission repair, 2nd gear was grinding pretty good, synchros on order, removal and tear down for inspection Appears someone at some point welded the 2-3 synchro hub..... not sure if it will be an issue but 3rd shifted just fine. Figured since the choices for replacements are second to none, I’ll have to roll with it. Anyone got any tips on installing the rings? I busted one using a hammer and bearing/ seal installer. I’ll ***ume a press is the better option? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If I remember correctly, that looks like the factory weld on the synchronizer ***embly. It wasn't a real pretty weld. I don't remember ever replacing the br*** in one. Maybe heating the ***embly before trying to install the ring would work.
jaracer remembers well and he's right about the weld.. I thought I had some of these new (NOS & NORS) units out in my barn. I found three today but none are yours. I have the 1940 to early 1953, P/N AWT242-2½A, and it has two lugs inside, not welded. The 2nd one was marked part number CG-84C, but the number was crossed out, it should also be P/N AWT242-2½A which it isn't. It had three lugs inside and it was welded like your picture so the year and application is unknown. The 3rd one is GM P/N 3774720, also welded but it did have 4 lugs that looked just like yours, it's for 1955 to 63 transmissions and is totally different outside than yours. You want 3705112, CG-84D or AWT242-2½B and I did sell a CG-84D in 2019 on ebay.
Wow man thanks. Good to know that’s was it was made and not a random farm yard fix. I’ll search the part numbers. But I have more synchros on order gunna try it again. Maybe I’ll try putting the br*** rings in the freezer for a day kind of like I do for U joints, and use a heat gun on the gear. And I’ll try a press this time instead of a hammer. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got the br*** rings pressed in correctly today at work. Little help from the freezer and a light coat of bearing grease did wonders. Anyone know if these need to be staked? I thought I read somewhere they do, but I don’t see how I would stake the 3rd gear side? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The synchro rings DO need to be staked in; some guys have made their own tool for doing the staking, since no one knows about these things any longer. Staking keeps the synchros from spinning in the slider/synchronizer drum ***embly. Might want to check in at ChevyTalk.Org, in the 49-54 forum for some more help; I know at least one member there posted his trans rebuild in the forum, in the sticky threads. He has some good advice, particularly about a snap ring NOT to use. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Thanks. I went over there and read the sticky. Didn’t see much on staking them but I did so with a punch. Much appreciated Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wow, that's a real repair! Where did you get the synchro's from? Any good tips or guidance on getting that 2-3 mechanism apart and together. Any other info on doing this repair would be helpful!
long time no update, large photo dump warning!! life’s been in the way, new house, new job, more kids, I’ve still managed to plugged away at the old car here’s a few updates and photos of the current stand point Added new aluminum radiator Under dash a/c system Removed and rebuilt the entire front suspension as well as performed a 3inch Static drop Rebuilt and painted the steering column Repainted the dash Rewired the dash/engine compartment Replaced front and rear gl*** as well as performed some small repairs to the windshield channel started welding in rocker panels Cleaned up and painted the rear diff and added a rear sway bar Repaired the floors and painted Repaired and painted the steering wheel Rebuilt the shifter column mechanism 1 inch master cylinder conversion (still under the floor) a front disc brake conversion, new rear drums and shoes, all new brake lines and proportioning valve with residual valves for the front and rear new rear leaf springs and shocks all the way around View attachment 5917879
Nice update, looking good. My first registered car was a '54 Chevy, always enjoy following the HAMB builds.
Very cool to see a 210 'stead of a Bel Air. HRW (Hot Rod Works) makes a very nice kit for installing a T5 ******, and that makes all the difference in the world for drivability in todays world.....Always thought the name "Blue Flame" was ever so cool !!!!
Thanks. I’ve seen a lot of the T5 stuff but I got plans to run a dodge A833/Chevy np440 behind a mild 235 so I can get 4spdOD and keep my column shift. But for now the stock I6 and 3 spd work just fine.
I'm in the middle of cutting my package try on my 53 Bel Air myself for 6x9s. Slow going as I'm going it with rear gl*** in place lol. Which disc brake conversion did you use?
ya gl*** out is easier LOL I bought the kit a few years ago thankfully before the price hikes. Here’s a link off eBay for the same kit I used. i do have some paper work with it that may help you piece a kit together if you want it send me a PM, it appears to use Camero parts that are available at all auto part stores, only hard part might be the sleeves for the spindle and brackets seem to be custom made. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948283499...w89SGcgRci&var=&widget_ver=artemi***edia=COPY and I believe I got the larger master cylinder and bracket kit from Chev of the 40s or NCA the proportioning valve is the standard GM valve available anywhere and the residual valves are from Wilwood. and I got some prebent lines from www.cl***ictube.com as well as spools from amazon
Sorry for the late reply, I guess I never saw this post before I dropped off for a bit. It’s a ***** lol I wish I took more photos when ***embly it a few years ago but I went together similar to a saginaw or Muncie, the hardest part was getting the rings out to pull the hub apart, and I made some special tools to make that easier, basically two people can do this but im solo 90% of the time, so squeeze that ring in tight and just start pulling and spinning on the synco till it frees, its a bit of a bear. but worked. as well as I made sure to mark the hub where the ring needs to be staked and made a tool for that (basically a bent-up pick ground down to a point and welded into the handle) other than that I went through the interwebs, and manuals as got as many diagrams as I can find. I believe I even found a few on YouTube. All and all wasnt too hard to build, but I did spend my last 13 years as a transmission tech at a local dealer. (glad that nightmare is over) Going together with the hub was easier, I believe once it was lined up I just pressed it together with my hands or I might have used the press lightly to get the snap ring in. hope this helps.
3inch satanic drop! Seriously though, looks like good work, metalflake dash turned out great and good to see proper repair work on the window channels as well, that's an often-forgotten area.
haha ya sometimes the keyboard gets the best of me. Thank you, I wish I could post a hi res video, the photos don’t do it justice and believe it or not it was all done with rattle can ( Roth metalflake cans) and a rattle can two part clear.(spray max 2k) I did the steering wheel and column on the same green. I have a 76 GMC van that had some of the worse channel rot ever and it took two other vans to fix it, I was happy to see this old car had next to nothing for rust in there. The idea is to not have to do this again lol
I bought my disc conversion kit from the same seller. Though I bought the kit without rotors calipers or pads and bearings. Mainly just came with caliper brackets, bearing adapters, hoses, and all the hardware. Was actually very pleasantly surprised at how fast I got it and how well made the brackets were. And even more surprised by an eBay kit coming with four pages of instructions lol
Right, I was glad to see it come with partnumbers for replacements down the road. I was pleased with the install as well, went super smooth.
Picked the car up from my dads garage a block away where I’ve been keeping it to do the windshield and back gl*** ( FL is good at surprise rain storms) and Well I noticed that when I did my rocker panel I had the panel to far over and didn’t check my gaps with my fender till after I welded it all on. Explains why the fender was such a fight. so I did some extra cutting and to make the lines work again as it was an eye sore and pushing the fender out of alignment. Ooooops, now I know what to pay attention to on the p***enger side. Haha I’m Now to trim up the lip on the bottom to match the factory one and weld it it as well, then off to the other side. I’ll use a bit of seam sealer to seal out the gap and try to smooth out some of the peeled and layered old metal but the fender hides it all so I’m not super worried about it.
The Jalopy Journal
