Like many of us, I have a car that sometimes sits for a couple of weeks without being started. Then it takes a lot of cranking to fill the fuel lines. I was wondering about adding a cheapo electric fuel pump and wiring it to the "start" circuit so that is only operates when cranking. Any opinions? BTW it's on my 33 Chevy sedan, 327/TH350. thx, .bjb
A lot of us experience the slow start problem, the reason I experience this most often is due the accelerator pump leaks down after sitting a week or two. HRP
I have installed flowthru electric pumps near the tank with a switch to prime when they sit for a while--works fine
I have always used them on my cars and they work great. They come in high and low pressure 3-5 pounds so be sure to buy a low pressure pump if you`re just going to use it to fill up your carburetor after sitting for a few weeks. I use the Airtex E8016S Universal Electric Fuel Pump
A lot of good discussion and tips were shared here........ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ng-quickly-with-dried-out-fuel-bowls.1208071/
Why not give it a good shot of either.. Remove the air cleaner lid and give it a good shot of either if its an open element. If not just shoot some down the snorkel or snorkels.. One guy had a 3/8" hose starting at the grill and ending in the air cleaner. He used a small piece of tubing at both ends. He never had a starting issue again..
I understand the problem. If you’re going to install an electric pump for occasional use, why not just go to an electric pump ... period?. I can see reasons for either, just wondering what your thoughts are. I went to an electric pump on my avatar build, primarily because I installed something else in the way of the factory fuel pump (shhh, AC compressor). John
I had a motorhome that was bad about losing prime after is set for a while. I installed an electric pump by the tank and wired it through a relay to an NO oil pressure switch (Chevy Vega). I also had a momentary switch under the dash to by-pass the oil pressure switch and allow me to prime the system. It worked great.
I put flow thru pumps on most of my Hobby Member cars. I use a momentary switch so it will not be left on. Just use it to prime carb. Autozone sells a 2-4 lb pump or a 5-6 pound. https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...Ih3VYhp_5pT64ooZ87MaAg06EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@Boneyard51 mentioned what he was taught. Hopefully he’ll see this. As I recall spin the motor a bit, let it sit. As it’s sitting it will continue to push the fuel up the lines into the carburetor.
I'm sold on the idea of adding a flow through pump. I also like the idea of a momentary switch. So far no one has replied to my idea of wiring it to the start terminal, either on the ignition switch or on the solenoid. That way I don't have to add another switch anywhere. Is there a down side to this idea? thx. .bjb
I'm with almostdone, why keep adding something to a system, in this case fuel, when you can run just the electric pump. Its like adding an extra battery just to use when the motor is off....
Sorry, I forgot to address that comment. I've been stranded by dead electric fuel pumps in the past. Same is true for electric radiator fans. I'm just wanting this for a backup. Also, I already have a good mechanical pump on the car and plenty of room to access it. thx. .bjb
This is exactly what I have done including the same part # pump. It works very well, and is a great help after sitting unused all winter.
- depends on how long it takes to fill the bowl and start getting sucked down the throat. Your engine may be a slow starter, so you would be adding your "fill the carb" time to your "start you bastard" time, and end up with a hot starter or wiring, or worse. Install it that way and try it. You will know if you are giving your starter a hard time. As for wiring in a pump through a switch, I installed a momentary on/always on switch to a fuel pump, so the momentary side was used for priming, and the "full time on" side could be selected if your mechanical pump stops working. (it did this once, and I flicked it "on" and it got me home.
On my infrequently driven cars I just remove the air cleaner and fill up the bowl of the carb with a tiny funnel. Then I work the throttle until I see the accelerator pump functioning. The engine starts right away after this, but I leave the air cleaner off for a minute or so as the engine idles so I can look carefully for leaks or other problems. I think it's important to keep a close eye in the engine bay when firing up these old engines that don't run every day, especially with the way modern gasoline can attack lines and diaphragms. Adding an electric fuel pump is more complication, and they also don't last as long if not used regularly.
I would think that wiring the pump to the start side of the ignition switch would be defeating the purpose of having a primer pump. You'd want the system primed BEFORE you started cranking, not while cranking, the mechanical pump will do that anyway. Seems kind of futile. I like the idea of a momentary switch, seems like the easiest route.
I don't drive the wood boat very often either, and just a quick shot of starter fluid, she fires right up.
you ask, why not? The reason ether is a bad idea is that you can break the piston lands off. I've seen what happens to ring lands after using starting fluid
You mentioned coming off the ignition switch........which I think is a good idea. Just remember that the switch should operate a relay that then turns the pump on rather than trying to energize the pump directly with the switch. I would still put an off/on switch under the dash that would be left in the normally "ON" position. That way if there ever was a problem you could disconnect it in an emergency.
Budget, you can tell them , but some times they just don’t listen. I have been doing this method for nearly sixty years successfully. It works! Bones
Instead of complicating your vehicle by adding extra fuel pumps, hoses and wiring, go for simple. My "junking" truck has a quadrajet carb that will evaporate dry in just a day or two, when it's time to dump a load I pop the hood, remove the air filter top and fill the float bowl with gas I keep in a re-purposed dish soap bottle. Now back to our regular programming.
I just dribble some gas down the carb, hit starter and engine will fire and run short time. May get enough fuel from pump to stay running, may need second dribble of gas. Yes, a little less convenient than an electric pump, but I only have to do this after vehicle has sat for extended period. Sent from my SM-A102U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
With an Airtex type pump you don't need a switch to prime it. Just run some 2 core wire back to the pump. One wire [12v] is connected to the ignition circuit [fused] and the other [ground wire] is spliced into the oil light sensor. Turn the ignition on and it automatically primes with the oil light glowing. Start the engine and the oil light goes out when the sensor breaks the ground [and the pump stops priming] Turn the ignition off and the pump is as "dead as a dodo!"
Didn't have vapor lock, but did have a heat soak issue once. I add a 1 inch phenolic spacer under the carb. Problem solved. .bjb
I like this suggestion! But my concern would be the amp draw of the pump through the oil pressures switch. I guess I could add a relay. THanks for the idea.. .bjb
I had an old Pinto daily driver years ago that was hard to start even if I drove it every day. I plumbed a rubber hose thru the firewall to inside the air breather. Then I could sit in the drivers seat and push the tube on top of a can of starter fluid into the hose and squeeze. It would start right up on those cold mornings......of course I had to smell the excess ether for a while on the way to work. Kind of a "wake up" call along with starting the car too. I sometimes wonder if a little too much ether is why I'm this way...................NAW! Told my Dad I quit raisin hell.............an he called me a "Quiter"
To your questions..., I think it would be slick to wire it to the start circuit. It might be wise (or overkill?) to add an oil pressure safety switch to it as well - or use that switch to turn your electric pump on and off with the start circuit. John
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