When I was a teenager, the closest connection to hot rodding for me was porning over various Rod orientated magazines, dreaming of the day that I would be zooming around the streets in my hopped up rod. Ill openly admit that I really didnt have a clue at that stage in time about anything (although some would say the same today  ), as my knowledge of history and reason didnt exist, the only thing I would appreciate (i.e. actively remember..) was the photos of what I liked, and what I didnt. One of the things which I did like were the photos of late 40s/early 50s speedsters and land speed racers. In particular, one of the most notable features of the cars (dare I call them that ) which I lusted over was a particular style of windscreen, the Hallock and Duval style units. Whilst there are differences between them, they both share the undeniable look of speed and action. This look is something which, like stance/wheels/colour etc, give you a first impression that will either attract people, or keep them walking through the isles of cars at shows. I wanted a hallock style screen, and since I believed an original unit ( or one of the swap meet replicas) were out of my reach, I decided that my only affordable option was to make one myself. I considered making a pattern and getting one cast, but the complications were far too overwhelming. I had almost given up on my dream, and then, here on our own HAMB, I saw ZIBOs artistic fabricated unit. This gave me a new hope, and so, in respect to him, the following is a tribute to him, since it is basically his idea. To speed up proceedings, Ill try to be brief, and let my dodgy photos tell the story .. (please bear with me, approx. 10 photos ..) The tools used: 1x Plasma cutter (although there are many other options) 1x Grinder (with flapper disk) 2x hand files (a coarse and fine unit) 1x crap load of patience 1x welder 1x masking tape Materials used: 3mm Alloy plate 10x10mm Alloy bar spacers Balsa wood (in same sizes as above Alloy) After doing some research, and identifying some crucial dimensions (like the angle the glass lays at, the overlap required to secure the glass, and some basic overall dimensions) I made a mock-up/pattern of the frame using the balsa wood, trimming and shaping to replicate the traditional look which lusted after.
After creating the basic pattern for the outer skin, I traced it onto the 3mm alloy plate, cut it out with the plasma (although thats my friend in the photo, my bald spot isnt as bad )
Then file it all nice and smooth (remembering that you want a bit of green as you will be trimming/shaping to match the top of the tank).
Be aware that you will need to trim the old fuel tank, and more importantly, you will need to cut off the top of the old windscreen frame mounts, weld on a plate for the new screen to mount to. One very important feature that you need to include is the provision (i.e. nut) welded to the underside of the mount as it is very awkward to hold a nut under there when fitting the screen .
Obviously you need to bend the plate at the centre and at the ends, and then make an inner pattern (so that you can sandwich the glass). I spaced the two skins 10mm apart (the glass used will be 6mm thick; with a rubber packing used either side to fill the gap).
After welding it all up, and doing a lot more filing/fitting/filing, the screen starts to take shape. I made a pattern out of thick cardboard for the glass, trimming till I got the shape I desired. Temporarily Ive got some Perspex, although it will be replaced by laminated safety glass when it comes time for rego. Anyhow, the following photos are of the car now. I still need to tidy up some of the welds, and give the basic surface finish some quality time with some fine sandpaper to get a nice and uniform satin finish, but that can wait till I get ready to paint the car. Note: Ive mounted the screen to the mounts (i.e. 2 x ¼ holes in the tank at the leading edge, and 1x ¼ hole on the outer perimeter) using S.S. bolts and nylock nuts with spring washers all round. Also notice that I gusseted and braced the frame to give it some structural integrity, as the air pressure at speed will want to deform the frame substantially. Also, whilst the comfort levels are small, I have made provision for a roof. The level of work required for one to fit easily has been sacrificed as I wasnt prepared to compromise the look of the slightly curved top edge of the glass, none the less, it will still have a roof of sorts, eventually.
I apologize if Ive dribbled more than necessary, but at the end of the day, the total cost of materials is under $70, with the biggest investment being planning time, and quality time in the shed. If you have an idea, but it all seems to hard, dont give up, just try to think outside the square. Cheers, Drewfus (So-What Speed Shop Australian Out-house)
Very simple but ULTRA effective!I like the end result- Thanks for the GREAT Tech on this much desired subject.
Hell its almost Monday how bout this being the first post of a new Tech Week?? You made a hard sounding job look real easy.....you have my vote
'Bout bloody time!!!!!!!! [ QUOTE ] Nice flip flops.. Havnt you took Garage Safty? [/ QUOTE ] Haven't you taken English lessons? And they're THONGS mate, not flip-flops!
Will you polish the aluminum or paint it? Did you do your own welding?...tig, mig or torch??? Very nice tech post.
looking great bro. shit I forgot all about the tracing of the shell I was going to do! Ill knock it up tommorow ....really sorry.
Gotta be brief due to restrictions here at work... Engine: Will be replaced soon, but for those still interested, Toyota 18RGE 4 cyl (with a 'crossflow', dual cam, Alloy Yamaha head) Maiki: The Picnic.... Rocky: the alloy will have a 'brushed' satin finish (ie not polished), it will be neat, but not 'show' quality. Was tig welded (by my welding teacher) using a high frequency unit. It took more time to clamp in place than it did to weld. Better run. Thanks for the compliments, much appreciated. Cheers, Drewfus
That is some nice work. Being broke can bring out the creativity. Keep everyone posted as it gets farther along.