I am using a stock rear crossmember in my deuce ch***is and was wondering what is the best way to modify the center section for a 40 spring.I don't like grinding the spring and would rather modify the crossmember as I have it on the bench. In the past I have just heated the front and pryed it out but I would like to do this one correctly by cutting out the section and adding a straight plate. Enclosed are some photos of my thinking so far. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I can adjust the wheel center by making the proper brackets from P&J.
A 40 ford front spring will fit in there without any mods, and it rides nicer too! What is the rest of the rear suspension?? Stock banjo? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312449 This thread has some good info...
I just did one for Homemadehardtop on here for his '34 build. On his I flattened the crossmember and used a center piece from a '40 or something thereabouts. You can splice and dice to your hearts content as long as you trust your welding. I've done dozens of these and the '40 spring will not fit without grinding as the stock '32 spring has a curve to it that the '40 doesn't, (that was for the guys who haven't come across this and will be asking later). I usually use a bit of 3/16 P&O to make a small center section in lieu of trashing another crossmember. Just remember to "fold" the front or the banjo will whack the crossmember on full suspension travel. Usually this mod is done along with the "pancake" on the stock crossmember to drop the car 2 5/8" which is the most I've been able to get without C notching the frame.
A front spring will fit. Depending on what rearend your using, you can make your spring hanger spacing to fit the spring. OR, grind the 40 spring to fit.
In the ch***is that's under my 3 window we cut the curved sides off the center section and made new straight ones out of 10 gauge plate. Then welded on a bottom flat edge on each side. Worked out nice. I have friends that just took a grinder to the 40 ford spring sides and inner part of the 32 crossmember and that worked fine and has held up thousands of miles later with no problems. You don't have to take that much meat out before it drops in. In my opinion it's not the right way to do it though. Here's some pics of mine that's under my 3 window Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's the one in my current 34 project. The center section out of a 40 crossmember was grafted in the middle of the 32. The whole thing was then flattened to lower the rear. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks, that is exactly what I had in mind. I will be making new plates as you did rather than cut up a good 40 x member. I guess I could use a 32 spring but if something happened I would not be able to replace it very easily. The photos are helpful. I am using a 40 rear end with 36 bones or maybe a 57 Ford SW as I have both in inventory.
No problem. I should also add that the side plates had about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch lip bent 90 degrees on top to slightly widen the the center section when both front and back pieces were welded in place.
All i do is grind the 40 rear spring to fit in the crossmember, it really doesnt take that long and then there are no mods to the original crossmember. might be able to make it out in the pic....found a better pic
How much grinding is required (don't want to weaken spring)? Yours is hard to make out but it looks good. Did you grind the entire spring or just the top leaves? Thanks, Lynn
Big Duece is right. A 40 front spring fits, lowers the car, rides better and looks better. Space it the same as if it were on the front of a 40 ford.
Lynn, Id say 1/16 off the front center about 2" wide tapering to nothing on the ends of the 2" if that makes sense and on the rear it tapers to 1/4 deep at the outside points and tappers to nothing int he middle, i do rough grind on in spring to make it fit in the member, then i bolt it to the other springs, then grind to match, then pop it apart and smooth it all out, i think the keep is smoothing it so there are no sharp gouges.
A little work with a torch for heat, a hammer, dolly and a drift and you can m***age the cross member nicely and the rear spring will fit fine. I did this on a stock '32 rear cross member and used '36 Ford stock rear spring, car in avatar. Just take your time and you will get a nice result. Much easier than cutting and welding the cross member.
Did this many years back. Heat the four dimples where the angled sides meat the center straight section. Photo does not show it well, but it works!
I used a 40 rear cross member and flattened it to lower the rear of my deuce ch***is. Cut the middle piece out, pie-cut the two end pieces where they join the center to enable it to fit flat, then weld the unit back together. Pm me your email and I'll send pictures.
Take a look at the T&A Flathead Builds a 32 5 window thread to see the rear 40 cross- member. That is how it will look when finished. any of the cross member should work fro the later 30's through 40.
I'm glad I saw this post, it has given me a few ideas. I suppose the grinding of the rear spring will inevitably weaken it, but you're no longer asking it to hold up a forty. The 32 (normally a roadster or coupe) will be a lot lighter and no problem for the weaker than stock 40 spring. That's what I'm thinking, anyhow. Mart.
Lots of great ideas for making use of the 40 spring both front and rear. I now have to decide what would work best. I even came across a stock 32/4 spring on Craigslist but I am leaning toward heating the crossmember as mentioned above. I am 73 years old and I think that is how I did it in the 60's but those days are hard for me to remember. I will post a photo of what I did.
What's wrong with a '32 spring? Works in my car. I'm using a Ford 9" I can see using the '40 type spring if you're using a '35 - '40 type rear end.
Pete, I just purchased a 32 rear spring yesterday and will not modify the crossmember. I will use the P&J rear hangers for the curved spring that you designed. I also found a nice 57 wagon rear so that problem is behind me. Thanks, Lynn
Had a question and this thread while searching the archives is probable the closest, Im getting ready to get my 32 frame all jigged and welded together, and was curious. Im wanting to flatten out the '32 rear crossmember (its what i have) and would like to know how much i can get away with "dropping it" before the gas tank in the stock location will interfere? I'd like to not have to carve the gas tank up if i dont have to. Any info would be appreciated as different people have told me different things.
I have 32 spring , stock rear cross member . Removed 3 or 4 leafs , and made adjustable height hangers for a 9 in from a Bronco , the rear of the housing is close to the crossmember .But being close doesn’t count unless your tossing a hand grenade . C Notched the frame for axle clearance . Car sits and rides perfectly . I see no reason to modify a spring or crossmember , unless you want it super low . I had NOS spring , drilled the leafs and added sliders also , this is not necessary , but I did it .
The Jalopy Journal
