Projects My 41 Chevy Coupe Build

Well, let's try this again.

I recently scored this 1941 Chevy Coupe Special Deluxe. It is 100% complete, 100% stock original and in excellent condition. Although some of the body trim is not shown, it is all there. As you can see in the pics, I have more dents to deal with than rust. This car is remarkably solid for its age.

My plans are to install a donor sub frame with P/S & power disc brakes, Ford 8.8” disc brake rear end, A/C, and tilt steering. I'm building this car solely to cruise the highways and country roads. My objectives are a good ride, dependability and comfort.

I would love to hear you guys’ thoughts, suggestions, do’s, don’ts and so on. I will post up more pics and continue as I progress along.

Thanks.

 

...can't openly talk about frame clips of this nature on the HAMB...this thread may get deleted.

 

Don't subframe it. If you do anything must II is the best option for your car. Rear convert to open drive.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

its your choice on the sub frame-but i have a 40 coupe that i installed a pinto front end, junkyard explorer 8.8 w/ ptrac, and posies (old name) slider leaf springs. It drives great, taken it on many long rod runs/road trips. Has a/c, p/s, p/b.tilt, etc. All this was done decades ago and its still good. Hint-if you decide to do a mustang 2 front, then consider some stock (like no a/c) springs. The rate on those is less and it gives a nice drop and ride.

 

I expect you'll get the same result of having your thread locked again if you keep going the stubbed frame route in your project. Just wont fly here.

 

Clip it
And open diff
Or rebuild the stock front end and open diff
A complete frame swap is a huge ball of wax and usually ends up with more issues then what you strayed with.

as said a m2 set up or something else , wayyyyyyy cheaper and easier in the long run


Cool looking car !!

 

Cool car. I would likely just swap for an open rear axle and rebuild the original front. I still don’t get why everyone thinks front ends have to be swapped out. I am currently fighting some mismatched disc brakes issues on my daily that causes it to not drive or stop as good as my 4 year older car with 4-wheel drums. I must be missing something.

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

I know there are some who have butchered a clip swap. However, because they did not know what they were doing should not make a clip swap a bad idea. My reason for clipping this car is that based mostly on the cost of rebuilding the stock front end, lowering it, rear end conversion kit. With that, I am into it for almost $2500. If I were going to spend that kind of money, crap, I would just buy a Heidts clip and be done with it. I refuse to spend that kind of money on my original old technology suspension and still not have power steering or disc brakes. I can clip it, rebuild it, have P/S, 5-lug disc brakes and newer technology for less than half that of keeping with the original. The "other Ford clips" are hard to come by anymore and when they do show up in any condition they are typically anywhere from $400 and up. I'd still have to convert it over to 5-lug and more than likely a new rack will be required. Again, I am back pushing my suspension budget to a place I rather not push it to. This is not my first clip swap and every time I have done one, it has turned out better than expected with the fabrication, ride and looks. Again, I'm not building a Barrett-Jackson quality car. I am building this car to be driven, safe and look nice.

To quote a certain well known and popular aftermarket supplier:
New uprights: $450
New arms: $215
New long tie rod: $41
Rebuild Kit: $400
New coils: $110
Rear end re-location kit: $868
Good used rear end: $150-200

I can pick up a good usable GM clip for $200 all day long (already found one) and for the most part be good to go but even if I need to rebuild everything, I am still no where near the cost of rebuilding and modifying the original stuff. Other than the labor involved (which I enjoy) this is by far the most cost effective route for me.

 

The issue with many subframes is the track width. Too wide and then your tires are at the limit of the fenders. Or too narrow and the tires are sucked in too much. Your car, do what you want. I agree a newer IFS type suspension is one way to get nice ride quality, P/S and disc brakes, and lower it all in one job. On your car it works since you hide the IFS under the fenders. On the rear you do not need anything more than a simple spring eye rebuild kit and some lowering blocks. Stock leafs are fine for most uses. Nothing wrong with the 8.8 rearend, lot of good choices in the correct width. Except the bolt pattern issue as compared to a GM front end. Almost anything can be made to work, all it takes is good fabrication and some money spent in the right areas.

 

EXACTLY!!! And that is my biggest hang up with sub-frames that are not done right. The GM clip I'm using is 59", the Ford clip is 55.6" and the stock 41' is 57.6" (and looks too far in already). So based on the fact that I will be running a 6" wide wheel up front this GM clip would put my tires right where I want them. I don't want anything wider than a 6" wheel in the front. With the Ford clip, I would have to run a 7 or possibly wider wheels to the wheels/tires out where I like them. I'm just not a fan of wider wheels in the front.

Yes, on the rear end, I will fabricate my own stuff to change that but I was just quoting because there are some who prefer the "bolt-on" route. I do not care for the "bolt-on" stuff. I prefer to build things to my personal taste and look.

 

Lux Blue did an article on a Camaro sub frame under a 59 panel wagon a few years ago and it is in the archives.

 

glad to see you got it home . you can change your mind a thousand times now . but once you cut the frame theres no turning ,so think of all possible outcomes first . I CUT IT 3 TIMES AND ITS STILL TO SHORT , all stock minus 2 coils . stock height tires

 

Thanks, I will check it out.

 

Since this is your intention why change the whole car? Rebuild the front suspension. You can put a Heidts front brake kit on the front, this gives you disc brakes and roller bearings. Modern shocks are easy to make mounts for and install. Keep the big stock steering wheel and you don't need power steering. I don't have it in my old car and don't really notice it at all. Clean the rear springs and mounts, replace worn parts and slip in the newer rear like the 8.8 rear you want. Now slip in a newer engine of your choice with matching transmission. Get a driveshaft made. Pick the right engine and it will have ac mounts and pump on it. Lots of companies make power brake master cylinder kits for both firewall mount and under floor and they fit really well. Now all that is left is a wiring harness. Kits like Ron Francis makes are really easy to install and are made for whatever engine you have chosen. Fairly straightforward and you don't have to re-do tons of stuff. ps, really like the car, I'll fix dents over rust every day of the week, nice find!

 

Very true Bill. I typically beat ideas like this to death many times before I ever even think of cutting anything, LOL.

What do you do to lower the rear? Did you keep the original leafs and build some spacer blocks?

 

I'm listening and I'm not saying no to this idea completely. I have nothing against the stock suspension even though I may come across that way, I don't. I just want a nice ride, handling, steering and braking without spending a small fortune.

 

i have done nothing to the rear . stock shocks and i havnt even checked them for oil yet !im planning on a rear nova swap soon and havnt drove much but around the neighborhood . about 20 mi on the freeway once .but it goes 70 so must have the taller rear gears ? the main thing is keep it simple .youve got big plans i know .but its really as much fun to drive even if you keep it oldskool . if yours is like mine most of the frnt end is probable not that worn . most of these retired after the war . people had a good job and wanted v8s with tri power and a automatic .main big ticket is the shocks/a arms and new tube shocks can be added easy

 

Thanks Bill. You and many others on here have made some very valid points and definitely a great deal of things to consider.

 

no matter which way you go the brakes need serious upgrading and if you want the other half to ride along , better have uph. in the budget . ask me how i know . thats about 3k if you do all the work .unless you can stitch !! smoked glass is a nice upgrade as well ! thats another grand by the time your done .

 

I am planning on custom bucket seats, lightly tinted glass among other improvements. My car is missing the upright portion of the back seat so, unless I can find a good one someplace I will probably just finish out the back seat area with carpet.

 

This is relevant:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/