From my previous post, I am starting over on my 2nd Mustang Axle. The inner pinion bearing race came out with only few light taps. To my disappointment, the new bearing race also went in with slip fit. It's not sloppy. Not sure if the bearing race spun in the housing. This really ****s. First I mess up perfectly good housing and now the 2nd one has this issue. I am thinking about putting lots of center punch on the housing and press it in with Green Loc***e 680. Just how well this method works? The other idea I have is to use my TIG torch and melt Silicon Bronze wire in the area which melts at low amp without melting the base metal. This would crease good interference fit. Waid
I’ve done this.Be sure to clean the housing and new race with brake clean and apply the loc***e to both surfaces.
I think there is special Loc***e for that very purpose. Whether it's any different from regular, and just a wheeze to have folks have two bottles on the shelf, I don't know but I bet it won't be too long before someone with knowledge and / or experience pipes up. Chris
You could bring the housing to a machine shop have them bore and sleeve it. the green lock***e “ bearing retaining “ stuff works well. you can do like you said, try to knurl the surface and use the green lock***e, or possibly shim stock to take up the gap. correct way would be to sleeve it. Is this just a cruiser or will it be a pavement pounder?
I had the same issue with a Dana 44, I used the green Loc***e, pretty sure I recall it saying was good for up to .006 clearance. Never had issues, but never tore it down again either
I just remembered what else I did, I ground a chisel off flat to a point. Leaving the point on one side, then peened the housing in 8 evenly spaced spots. I recall calling every machine shop close by if they knew of an inside knurling tool, didn’t have any luck.
There is no space to put shim stock. It's slip fit not loose. Looking at Loc***e there are 3 for Cylindrical Application. Loc***e 609 is for Gap Fill up to .006" with Sheer Strength of 2300 PSI. Loc***e 660 is for Gap Fill up to .020" with Sheet Strength of 3335 PSI. Loc***e 680 is for Gap Fill up to 0.015" with Sheer Strength of 4000 PSI Waid
Use a center punch and put a pattern or ***** marks on the bore, use the green 680. Make sure it is extremely clean. You won't have an issue. Make damn sure the bearing is seated in the bore. If not you have to heat it up to 400 degrees to get the bond to break.
No way to get a center punch in there, that’s why I reworked a chisel. You want the “punch” to go straight in as possible. Open up a housing and take a look, then try to get it all squared up with a hammer
Like Gimpy said, Loc***e used to make a “ Bearing and Stud mount” product for this purpose. Works great. Actually the need for exact bearing clearance in most ring and pinion is over rated. I have taken rear ends apart before that were just making a little noise and have seen huge clearances in there. I have seen tons of pinions move back and forth .020 or better and working with no leaks or noise! Bones
I've never had to tap a third pinion bearing out AFTER the retainer is taken off, never had to press or Loc***e one in. Impression I got is they don't have to press in or out.
It’s been a few years and I may be wrong, but I seem to remember that if you are going to weld , using BrakeClean on the surface beforehand can lead to deadly fumes! If you are going the punch and Lock***e route only, no biggie obviously. The OP mentions possibly welding though.
You will be fine with the ***** punch and loc***e. I will say that the newer loc***e products that list a specific loc***e cleaner or primer seem to perform best using them. For years I would just use a non-clorinated brake clean or some acetone to clean then the loc***e. Life seems not that simple anymore.
Not trying to get off topic, but found this. It’s actually a good PSA, if people don’t know about it. https://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html
I think it is gross overkill to do anything more than the 680 Loc***e. All these suggestions to try and score, punch, etc., much less boring and sleeving or plating is in direct opposition to the KISS method. Loc***e knows what their product can do and from the OP’s description nothing more is needed......most especially the punch marks, etc., IMO. Ray
It would seem that is valid advice at the time it was published (2009). In recent years all I have seen on supplier’s shelves is non-chlorinated cleaners. I am not a chemist, but I think that change in formulation was a direct response to the problem discussed in the linked article. Ray
I remember there was the red and green cans, one not to be used for welding. Never concerned me, I never saw the need to use either prior to welding anything
The rear pinion bearing needs to be tight going into the housing. Not that it will fall out or move. You need to keep it from spinning in the housing. 8-10 peen marks and loc***e will keep it from spinning. As above ^ I never had to take one apart to see if the Loc***e held. Drag raced on the street and tracks, Asphalt and dirt oval racing for 20 years. Plus I put together about 100 stock rear ends.
Mic the hole , heat it to 950* , let cool , mic it again , the heat will shrink the metal. It may need it twice to make it fit tight
I did an experiment while back I though I would post my finding. Since I already had typical Red Loc***e, I put it on bearing race and put in the housing. A week later, I could not believe how tight the race was. It almost as if I needed twice as much force to remove the race then typical pressed in. That was a big surprise! I wonder, if it is even possible to remove the race with the green stuff.
Use the appropriate loc***e primer with the 680 , used it on an industrial machine that probably had 10 times the load on the bearing compared to what you're contemplating ,lasted at least 5 years that I'm aware of .
Yes,,,,,you can remove the “green stuff”,,,,,,like they said,,,,,,it has to be heated to melt the green stuff. Use the green,,,,like the man said,,,,,,this is what it is made for,,,,,,this is its special purpose for being . No reason to worry about it later either,,,,,,,it works just like they say . Tommy
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