Tires are on wheels. Fr = 525/550-17" Rr = 6.50-17" Front will drop down approx 60-70mm (2.5") when engine and all stuff on frame. Rear will drop less, maybe only 40mm (1.5"). Need to adjust (increase or decrease) leafs when car is mostly ready. Anyway, I like early 40s style rather high deuces. Now looks OK, still can get big big disappointment... Aulis View attachment 5040313 View attachment 5040315
Thanks. Today I put together front brakes. after that installed steering box and draglink + ends. Draglink, ends and pitman arm arrived two weeks ago from DalaKrom Ab (crome company) , Sweden. Tomorrow need to continue front brake line, fuel line etc. Maybe I weld exhaust tubes before drop body on frame. Aulis
Thanks. Im already fat, and now Im hungry too..... One thing what Im missing from USA are cakes, donuts,..... Every friday I left weekly shipment (race, hot rod,...parts) to El Secundo, I stop my 1966 C10 pick up to Randy´s Donut near LAX (westchester). I drive home (sawtelle blvd, Culver city) cook "heavy" coffee and enjoy maybe best donuts in the Ball. Thursday windshield gasket (10meters , for two cars. roadster & 5w) arrived. Windshield was also ready and I picked it up. Front brake lines are slowly made. Hope today also get ready fuel line. During weekend maybe start working with exhausts... Try to do all ready before we put body on frame. Aulis
Hahaaa,,.... he is thinking " I hope, old man is working harder with hot rods before I leave him to old people´s house".... Friday evening we were watching TV (American pickers) and same time check what gauges Im gonna bolt on. Need to buy Tachometer trasmitter. What brand You recommend? Friday afternoon I made front brake tubes ready. All bolted on and tighted. Ch***is Eng. shocks also bolted on (made in Canada stuff). Is there big shock factory, I have seen that many brand shocks are made in Canada. Next fuel line and sending unit installation. My friend changed fluorecent lamps to new led ones. Same man who owns car painting company and sprayed my this rod body. I took those old ones. Yesterday I changed all 12 lamp in my garage. 10y ago I used 836 number lamps, next I used 840 (little more blue light). "new" ones are 865 , very much more blue light. Im not sure if I like those, but if not, I change back 840 lamps... Aulis
Auliz, I'm glad you're using "made in good old Canadian" parts! Should be able to smooth out any bumpiness as we do as a country! LOL You're project is always interesting as how you tackle the various aspects.
Thanks. I have been waiting for when I have lost my interest to work with hot rods..... Here very cold weather after 7-10days warm period. We have fire on fireplace, I have measured tue fittings, .... I have very much stuff on stock, but we have very good small stuff seller here i Finland. www.nippelit.net . Teppo, owner of the compnany has huge stock all kind of brackets, ******s, fittings, nuts, trim fittings,.... Maybe we stay in, because we both have not good feeling in throad. We can install those dash parts etc. aulis Fuelpress gauge Oilpress gauge
Like the brake routing up the torque tube and those clips look great Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's an interesting place for the front shock bungs, do you have any more pictures with out the shackles mounted? Looks great. Also I see based on your drag link angle you pretty much eliminated any bump steer issues. Great work. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Front shocks were installed like now, when project arrived from USA. Very good welded those threadbungs for F1 shock brackets. I do not like those normal lower shock mounts normally used with tube shocks, so I left USA made lower shackle mountings. I was plan to use original shocks, but leave that idea, because threadbungs were TIG welded very professional and shocks looks good (angle, lenght,...). I just rewelded lower mountings in shackles. Sometimes have maybe had little bump steering, but never been problem. I have had even next combination = 5" drop axle + mono leaf + A-ford support + F1 steering box = No bump steering. Drag link angle was huge (grey 5w coupe , www.auliz.fi). I have note that if have old tires or not enough airpressure, that is not good. Or not tight steering box... There will be more draglink andle when all installed, because front suspension will get pressed down before see if front end is too low or I can leave it like it is. Shocks are tight. many times those liquid filled shocks have too much clearance (empty 1cm). Aulis
That is something I am planing to do on my hood on my 33 five windows. Are you planing to mace a scoop!! I need more air to cool down the supercharger. All ways better to get a little bit more cooling to them and it looks wicked. Lähetää messi niin olan kuulola. Terv L***e +46700999980
Scoops are good to use when supercharger. Fresh air, cooler carbs, less detonation, if airfuel mixture is colder.... My ex roadster carbs were nearly freeze when drive 100 -120kmh on highway (303cid flathead + McCulloch). My another Italmeccanica supercharged 284cid engine supercharger and carbs are very cold too, but I do not use hoods at all. This rod I will use only aluminum or br*** net + alum.frames around hood holes. Free flow 296cid stroke & big bore engine. Less than 9:1 compression ratio etc. You need to made alum. racestyle scoops to the hood tops etc. Aulis
Thanks. Project slowly going foward. Fuel line ready, 59A block lifted on and started to make exhaust. Drv side china header not fit.... but maybe today get it ready. Aulis
Long day, but get ready both exhaust. Tomorrow, Friday, need to fix those and paint. Today arrived small shipment from Speedwaymotors. Drive set for Harman Collins magneto. Small part, expensive,.... but only place where can get that missing part. During weekend, I install body on frame. Aulis
Thanks. Mufflers are from US ebay. I like those. Nice round outlook (old style), nice sound,.... Only problem is that inlet/outlet are +2"... 1 3/4" woud be better... As they say: " Loud pipes save lives" Aulis
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