Hot Rods Safety shutoff for electric fuel pump

Whereas a Model A guy might say, "What the hell is a mechanical fuel pump?"
or
"If get one of those oil- pressure shut-off thingies, can it really detect 3 psi?"

 

Grab the wiring at the same time. Buying the connector from Ford was more than the switch from Pick a part

 

I didn't mean to imply that you're a bad guy and if you took it that way, I apologize. Now that the rest of the story has been told, maybe you can understand my confusion. I'm glad that he was able to contact you and that you could help him.

 

Well played my friend, well played![emoji2]


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I'm using a generic switch that'll be mounted in the trunk for access if required. The engine oil pressure switch will be wired into circuit so when it drops, pump will shut down.

 

Or those thumping bass speakers in the trunk.

 

I wired my electric fuel pump using this diagram, there is also a switch on the dash. The pump will only work when the starter is being cranked or the engine is developing oil pressure.
Standard Brand PS-64 switch.

 

Used to get tow ins all the time with the switch tripped. The parking lots around the shop had tall speed bumps and people would go over them too fast....especially the wagons.

 

Kabinenroller posted a great illustration of how to use the older style setup. IIRC that's from "How to Wire Your Street Rod".

Here's the switch from a 1973 Vega on the Rockauto site:


And its connector, and yes it's way more money than the sender:



I don't know what thread the Vega uses, 1/8 or 1/4 NPT.
I used a PS118 switch on my off topic car, it uses 1/4 NPT:

 

You don't need one with a mechanical fuel pump. The mechanical pump will stop when the engine stops. An electric fuel pump will keep running as long as it's getting electrical power. even if the engine is stopped.

 

I also have a high volume engine mounted mechanical pump, the electric pump is supplemental (For Rac’n!)

 

that switch was used with carburetors for the electric choke. when the car was started the oil pressure would energize the switch and choke coil to open choke butterfly. 2 wires for choke and one for oil lite

 

Aussie-built safety switch (Peel Instruments CP30):

https://www.peelelectronics.com.au/lpg-automotive-gauges-propane-closed-loop-safety-switch/

It says its for LPG solenoids, but works just as well turning on/off an electric fuel pump.

Takes a signal from the coil. No coil pulse, turns off power to the fuel pump. This one is neat, as when you first turn the ignition on it runs for 2.5 seconds, priming the bowls. I've got one in my avatar. Simple wiring, easy to bypass at the side of the road if needs be, and nice people to deal with. Nice running LED so you can see if it is working.

Cheers,
Harv