Technical wheel size fitment

I have a chopped 1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe. I have stock 15" wheels and tires.

Can anyone tell me if a 8" deep wheel will and tire fit without interference/rubbing?

If it wouldn't work , what would be the max depth wheel can I use?

Thanks
RB

 

@Richard Bailon

You can determine the answer easier than we can. Jack up the car, remove a rear wheel and measure from inside the wheel opening lip to either the frame rail or the inner wheel well, whichever is closest.

From that dimension subtract at least an inch, perhaps an inch and a half, and the remainder is the sidewall maximum width for the tire. Subtract at least another inch or inch and a half and that is the max wheel width that will fit.

However, an equally important dimension is the wheel offset. With a straightedge against yhe wheel mounting surface of the drum, measure distance from inside the wheel lip and then from the inner frame or wheel housing. The difference in those two numbers is the wheel offset you need to keep the tire centered.

Ray

 

8s are tough. I ran a 7" with a 235 based cheater slick and it just barely fit

 

7” rims are close to the limit unless you roll the inner fender lips. I have 15x7s and it’s just right on the street. Rear tires are 205s, fronts 195s.

 

Try this

 

post pic of your car - not a lot of clearance for much more than original width wheel - especially for steering clearance to fender if lowered -plus, makes steering harder

 

These are 7” chrome reverse with 225/70 R15. Rear end is 55/56 Chev. There is only about 3/4” of room on outside. Hope this helps.

 

@nochop

Thank you for the illustrations that support my verbal directions in post #2…..”a picture is worth……..”.

Ray

 

Hers a good article on the subject.

 

Remember you need to be able to remove the wheel/tire combo on the road. Cars at that time had bumper jacks for a reason. My 56 Ford is like your Chevrolet and you have a larger opening on the rear with the skirts off. I cannot remove my tire with just a floor jack under the rear end or spring perch. I need to raise the body. My car had 15-5” rims. I have 15-6” now and 215-75’s in the rear. My car is stock height in the rear. Fronts are 205-75’s

 

This is a good point! I used to have 15x7 gm wheels with 215x70 15" radials on the back of my '53 and it was a tight squeeze getting them on & off between the fender & brake drum with a 4x4 S10 rear end. That was with me jacking it up at the frame.
On the other hand I have seen a '50 with 245x60 tires on the back with the stock rear end on 15x7 rally wheels. No idea how much it took to get them on & off. If I had to guess I'd say he probably had to unbolt his shocks and let the springs drop down.

Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have the same situation, axle jack alone won’t work so I need to raise the body quite a bit before tire will clear. I did run 235/75 15s on 8” chrome reverse on flipped shackles back in the late 70’s but they rubbed on every bump.

 

Ha... I had issues with my shoebox Ford... I would remove the bottom of the rear shock and raise 'er up with a floor jack via the frame in front of the rear wheel. Major pain, but it worked.