Hot Rods I need a little 303 olds engine assistance

I cant remember what the heck these were attached to.

 

I will need to run a generator but I'm not sure my choices on mounting with this manifold. Can anyone guide me as to what the hot deal was back in the day for generator mounts.

Also, i would love to rebuild my fuel pump, does anyone sell those parts?

What goes where that hole is in both heads towards the back.

 

the spring looks like it may go under the cam ****on,
the two plugs look like they may go in the block behind the timing gear, if so one will have a hole in it
the holes at the manifold deck surface at the back get cover plates.
in stock form one would have an integral portion of the TV linkage,
the other would be tapped for a heater hose ******.

 

thank you thank you thank you

 

Here’s a close up of the front oil gallery plugs in the correct location.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

As to the generator mount you will need to fab a mount plate to move it away from the carbs (***uming you are not running stock exhaust manifolds that may have the mount ears for the gen bracket. I have a template for a extended bracket I can send to you. See if I have a pic I can post first. Quite a few 4 carb Olds running out there so others may have different ideas.

 

One solution: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...incredible-hulk.1098132/page-21#post-14035763

 

any ideas where to buy an oil fill tube?

 

1.50" x .035" round steel tube, multiple sources online

 

I have an original with cap, dirty crusty piece but original if you want it. Left over from a frozen block, might have come from a 371 but they are the same. Pay the postage, it yours.

 

There should be a screen and baffle that goes in the opening before the tube is pressed/driven in.
It keeps some of the oil in the block when there is excess crank case pressure.

 

found that crusty piece and decided to tear it apart and clean it. Now it looks better. It is not an OE cap however, as it is missing the 710 OIL markings on the top but it should do.

 

Thank you, I'm happy to pay you for it as well as shipping.

 

I am SO BUMMED!! I screwed up big time. I have the older style connecting rods and they don't make those bearings anymore, so I bought newer connecting rods last year since bearings are a little more plentiful. After having my engine at machine shops and balancing, I finally got it home yesterday and started installing rings and spirolocks. After installing, I realized I am installing my old rods, I don't know whrer the F**K I put my newer rods! I think I remember recycling them not long ago, FAUCK! It looks like I have 2 good ones that I found.

 

Got my new rods and pistons installed today.

Paul just helped me realize that my engine did not come with a cam ****on, not sure where I'll find one but I'm going to start looking now.

 

I sure hope this squirt hole points towards the opposite piston underside directly across from the this piston.

 

Do you have the oil slinger that goes on the crank snout as well? I will look for that cam ****on. Might have one from that busted block hiding in the garage...

 

Found this over on a tech site but can't ascertain if this is right. Maybe @Paul will chime in as he builds a lot of Olds engines and may be following this post.

(When using connecting rods with a squirt hole, ***emble the piston to the rod with the squirt hole facing the center (inboard) of the engine)

Also, couldn't find that hidden cam ****on in the garage.

 

Paul has already helped GREATLY with this, yes they go towards the center(cam).

I have the oil slinger.

 

These guys are very good to deal with for fuel pump rebuild kits.
https://www.then-now-auto.com/

 

Thank you!

 

I think your valve covers are Gotha, p/n V02, but the logo has been ground off.
Photos courtesy of @MilesM

 

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/departments.asp?dept=8https://egge.com/product/kits/action/Search+MMY/kit_make/OLDSMOBILE/kit_year//kit_engine/303+CID/

 

Anyone know the ring gap on a 1950 olds piston?

 

from '50-'51 shop manual
***uming stock iron rings, might check with ring manufacturer or machine shop for hone grit and gap for other

 

I believe cast Jahn pistons are plenty strong. In the 60's and 70's they were used exclusively in area dirt track modified racers. most of these racers were alky burning SBC's running 7000 plus rpm. Only failures I observed were failures from running too lean. Since these are solid skirt pistons they must be fit loose, so they will be noisy, more so when cold. I also used them in street racing engines with no problems Greg

 

Years ago I had a boring bar (still have & still use it) I bored a few 303 blocks to 4" and used '57 371 pistons, that's a whopping 1/4" over bore, never had a cyl wall failure. Oldsblock has high nickel content so it took a lot of light cuts to bore it. Have extensive experience with old rockets. Phone me at 7122604050 if you think I can help you. speedshifter Greg White

 

Small block Chev lifters will fit. speedshifter Dreg White

 

I still can't get over the specs on that cam........242-242 @050 duration with an LSA of 108*!!
In a 324 cu. in. engine!!!
Now that's my kinda camshaft, brother!!! (Talk about a snotty idle!)
My lil 306 cu. in. SBF has a 230-236 @050 duration with an LSA of 108* It's pretty snotty at the stop signs and such. (I need to......clean it out/blow-its-nose at long lights!!)
Definitely NOT A/T friendly.
Would love to hear a video once you get it running.....
6sally6

 

Here’s what those rear block off plates look like stock like Paul mentioned. You can see the pivot for the hydro throttle pressure linkage on the left. You will probably end up making some aluminum ones unless you run an old hydro.