I FINALLY finished the complete rebuild on the frt. end of my '53 Ford. I flipped the uprights when I did it and it is lower a few inches w/ no mods to the sprngs. So now the $64,000 question... Are my wheels supposed to be leaning out at the top? I sure hope so. I assume this is the part where I slap the rose bud on the torch & bend the uprights so that the whole thing is roughly back in spec. your thoughts? -r
I saw the answer to this posted on HAMB a few days ago. Try www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?=6342
Well, I can't find it in the TECH ARCHIVE, but your answer is in a tech reponse by "Tim" titled STEERING, tech Rockyspindle swap. I printed it out 1/28/06 but can't locate it now. Hope others can direct you.
i have a caster/camber gauge you can borrow,if you need it. i have to do this job on my Oldsmobile i was thinking of taking a piece of pipe and welding a spare spindle nut to the end,so i could more easily control the bend when it gets heated.
That's funny Yorg, I had a similar thought about how to control the bend. I think I'll do the old "carpenter's square against the brake drum" trick so I may not need a gauge. Did you flip uprights on your Olds? I've never heard of that working on anything but Fords & Mercs etc. It really works well on the Ford, though I think I'll still cut a single coil to get it down further. With 4" blocks that should make it about level. I'm living in Monterey now, but I'm sure I'll catch you at an ODD rods BBQ or something. -r
I hate to ruin your party, but the upright really needs to be out of the car. The heat required will ruin the seals on the adjuster eccentric bushings. Unless theres a trick I don't know about. Good luck. Keep us posted. Sparky
I guess i'll add to this thread. I am almost finished with flipping my uprights on the 51' ford. I did run accross a few things that were not mentioned in most threads discussing this.........had to grind the steer arm where it hoops around the spindle and definitely found out that I need to heat/bend the upright to clear the stock wheel or it will rub! I even flipped the lower clamp bolt and adjusted the camber cam all the way out and it still hits. Aside from that the swap was easy. As for heating the upright in the car, remove the two lower rubber seals first, reassemble and heat away. clearance issue and the "grind to fit" steer arm.............. I ended up getting 2" of drop in addition to my worn coils with 1.5 coil cut....