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Technical 29 Tudor. OHV head without other mods

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RCB1, May 25, 2021.

  1. RCB1
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 31

    RCB1

    So, short of this story, my wife and I recently purchased her grandfathers and great uncles 29 A Tudor. It was restored in 94 (they had bought it in the late 50s/early 60s). Anyhow, it's been sitting for a while. The engine was rebuilt when it was restored. Beyond that, I know almost nothing about it, other than a stack of recepits (grandfather passed in the 80s and her great uncle passed away last year).

    So, it's pretty much stock, though it needs refreshed. We've got a lot of hills around here and I know that hills were a problem for the A to take at speed even when it was rebuilt, so I was told from her great aunt. Of course our first stop was to look at the high compression heads, but then my wife saw the Roof 101 and really just liked the way it looked. Naturally the performance benefit is there, but my concern is wiping out the bottom end on the first go, if we did pickup a Roof (or other OHV) and sundry. I'm going to assume the crank hasn't been balanced and no pressurized oil system or any such. This A is outside my normal adventures, except for my tractors.

    My wife wants to keep it stock looking, but she liked the idea of a period hop up. While I'm sure many would see this as a waste without going full bore, my wife is usually rolling her eyes at whatever project I've dragged in recently. This is the first time she's seemed legitimately interested in any "old" vehicle, so I'm more than willing to throw cash at this.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2021
  2. Start limbering up your arm, it's going to be a long inning!
    I'd get it going and drive it the way it is, while searching for another engine to go through. Then you can go from the bottom up and build a runner. That will also give you a chance to evaluate the rest of the running gear (trans, rear end, steering and brakes).
    Good luck!
    By the way, pictures, or it doesn't exist/didn't happen
     
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  3. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,289

    sdluck
    Member

    It was one I saw in Santa Cruz and the guy had put a 4-cylinder Chevy from a Nova or Postal Jeep in the Chevrolet sedan delivery and made it look like all the original

    Sent from my SM-J737T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    My first thought Is to wonder if they played with the timing and ect while charging the hills? Could make a huge difference when that load comes on.

    second thought is the head over to the monthly banger thread and start digging.

    I think a stock car with a roof head set up would be awesome
     
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  5. RCB1
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 31

    RCB1

    Haven't got it home yet. He had done a few "mods" if you will. They're doing a run on those Roof 101's later this year. I may buy one to set aside. She wants to keep it somewhat original, but likes the thought of a period hop up. And as this car has spent its life in Indiana, the Roof is interesting in that the originator was from Indiana as well. Neither here nor there, but your advice is sound.

    Hopefully get it loaded on the trailer in the next couple weekends and get it home. Brakes are first. Looking at trying out that "Dead Stop" brake kit. At this juncture plan on keeping mechanical brakes.
     

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  6. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,745

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    A stock Model A with babbit bearings won't take a lot of abuse, a high compression head, down draft intake and a centrifugal advance distributor will wake a Model A up at less than half the price of the overhead conversion. A stock engine is comfortable at 2500 rpm or so which is around 50-55 on the highway. I have a stock 29 with a counter balanced crank and lightened flywheel and it's still a 55 mph car. Had a 30 pickup with a counter balanced and insert B motor, high compression head and a downdraft carb and still about the same top end. I've never had a problem climbing a hill but still careful about highway speeds.
    Looks like a stocker with 21" tires and mechanical brakes, make a good driver if you don't push it too hard. I've ran mechanical brakes and hydraulic brakes and the mechanical are fine if they are in good shape and set up right.
     
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  7. RCB1
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 31

    RCB1

    Yeah, I'm curious what he tried with the timing. I talked to him a few times about it, but he never talked much about the technical challenges. Of course he had been in failing health for years, and my wife never broached the subject of buying it before his passing. All the info I have is from my wife's aunt, so who's to say? It's possible her insight is compared against modern vehicles.
     
  8. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,745

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    The left hand lever on the steering column advances the timing and you and advance it as you climb the hill. When you start the car open the fuel valve on the bottom of the gas tank, the timing should be 1/4 of the way down and the throttle down a little, the choke know also controls the enrichment valve and should be open about 1/2 turn. turn the key on, step on the starter and pull the choke for a second or two and shove it back in, if you hold it too long it'll flood the engine. The right lever is the throttle and should be all the way up when you're running down the road.
     
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  9. RCB1
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 31

    RCB1

    Thank you. It's a different beast and is closer in operation to my tractors than any of the older vehicles I've owned. My wife is excited about it, and that's where it's at for me. She's never shown much of an interest in any of my machines up until this point, so I'm excited we can have this overlap in interests.
     
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  10. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,507

    dwollam
    Member

    I highly recommend the Snyder's 5.5 or 6 to 1 high compression heads. I have one of each on my Model A's. The 6 is on a Diamond block B engine. Either is great. On a fairly well used engine I would go with 5.5 and on a good engine, the 6. Use their black head gasket for the B engine WITHOUT the steam holes. High compression head makes all the difference in the world from low speed to top end. Engine seems relaxed. More torque. Can't think of anything bad.

    Way less complicated and cheaper than an OHV.

    Dave
     
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  11. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,712

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    How much more HP will the OHV conversion provide? Practically any engine will stand a 25% power increase without reducing its life or reliability provided it is in good shape to start with. That means good bearings, good oil pressure, good compression with cylinders and rings not badly worn. If the engine was properly rebuilt in 94 and has not done too many miles it should be good to go. Naturally you have to drive in a sensible manner. No dumping the clutch at stop lights and don't over rev. But if your goal is better hill climbing without shifting down you should be fine.
     
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  12. RCB1
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 31

    RCB1

    From what I've read, 40hp is stock. The OHV dynos usually put them in the 75hp range from what I've read. But yes, no launches in this old thing. Just better performance with the family onboard.

    The high compression heads may be plenty without the OHV. Of course in this case, it was my wife eyeballing it. It's pretty. :)
     
  13. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,289

    sdluck
    Member

    My buddy put a corvair turbo on one,motor is stock he also add gm t-5 trans.
     

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