110 volt MIG be enough?

I have a 110 volt 20amp wire feed MIG. My question is would that be heavy enough to weld the kick-up in my F-1 frame? It is 1/8" c-channel, but I would box the area of the kick up.
Thanks,
CHAZ

 

what kind of machine is it?
what is the range is it just a 20 amp because it should go up from there to at least 135 amps or so. if its just a one setting 20 amp welder than you might think about getting a better machine.
is 20 amps the input voltage (what you need to run the machine) required at your circuit breaker or is it your output voltage(the heat you can weld with).

 

no.

 

YES!!! - - well ok MAYBE - it really depends on a couple things. If you design your joints properly - overlapping sections - properly reinforced, cleaned and beveled -& you KNOW you ARE a very good welder!
if your machine is of the sum dung flung poo - then the answer is NO - don't try it.

If you are a so so welder then NO don't try it.

If your circuit is questionable then NO don't try it.

Maybe 15 years ago I put a Camaro subframe into my '37 Chevy Truck using a Miller Sidekick (115V Mig Welder) - I reinforced the living daylights out of it - I cleaned it near perfect. I designed the joints such that the splice was staggered and gusseted everywhere. It's NEVER given me a hint of a problem and I've towed with this truck. SO is it possible - YES absolutely - IF your welder is rated for it and YOU can make an honest assesment of YOUR skills AND you are willing to think things through. Your Mileage May Vary

 

20 amp is the input voltage, sorry. I think it is 185 or 195 output? I have to check the make. My father is giving it to me, so I am not sure, I gotta check it out.

Plus I suck welding!
CHAZ

 

No. unless of course u actually like the smell of a hospital.......

 

So I tack it up and let someone who knows if their ass is punched or bored do the real welding?

What is the correct "tool for the job" when it comes to welding frame rails?

Thanks,
CHAZ

 

why risk it, just get a lincoln 225 stick welder...... they can do plate and shit for 250 bucks brand new.... 560 bucks will get you AC and DC welding

 

If he cant weld well with a MIG, I doubt he'll do any better with a stick.

Personally I would find someone with a bigger welder and that can weld (second part is the most important).

A lot of guys who are production welders have welders of their own and will do work for pretty cheap. Just make sure they know how to weld, get pics of examples and post them on sites for welding if you arent sure of a decent weld. You'd be suprised what some companies will let slide with production welds.

 

That welder is plenty big. We only use 120 amps on any of our chassis. It all depends on material prep and skill level. If in doubt, bring in a pro.

 

We had done many Subframes (nova) with a miller 90amp Millermatic, and old one. it was a 110 Machine. they were of coarse Gusseted and boxed correctly.

My father put 50k miles on his 38 chevy (some real hard miles) without an issue. Its all in the Preheat/fitment/and time you take.

 

I guess I just don't see the issue here, I've got a 110 volt Lincoln that melts through 3/16th's thick tubing if I want it to, I weld all kinds of stuff thicker than 1/8th inch with no problems, I would think that with some good experience you could pull it off, but planning and knowing what you're doing are crucial...there's no harm in bringing in a professional welder to do the job for you, and most of the time they'd be helpful enough to teach you a few things along the way...

 

I'll second that! And add, if you gotta ask, your not up to it anyway.

 

I'm a fair welder and have been fabricating stuff for over 35 years, so maybe I'm able to make it work better than some, but I have a 110V Miller that works pretty well. It gets good penetration on steel up to 3/16". It takes a couple of passes to do 1/4". It has been very good on the sheetmetal repair. For a home garage, it's not bad.

The bigggest limitation is the low duty cycle. You can't lay down long, continuous beads without stopping. That's not normally a problem since I very rarely would do that anyway. Most of the work I've done involves alternating from one section to another to avoid warpage anyway.

One tip: stay away from the flux core wire unless you are working outdoors in the wind. Welding with CO2 or CO2/Argon will give you much better welds with this small machine, especially with sheet metal.

 

Thanks for the new way of saying "He doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground" I like it!

 

Cant you weld thicker material with flux core though? Seems to burn hotter, just looks like crap (when I do it anyway)

 

flux core is typically for thicker metals on 110 units...and I found out the hard way that good ventilation is needed to use the stuff on a large job (was making an english wheel frame and stand and had some trouble breathing)...my 110 with flux core does 1/4" pretty damned well on the first pass if you set it up right...

 

My little Miller welds 1/4" with flux pretty well, but again you can olny weld a bead no longer than about 2" before you have to stop and let the machine cool down a little. It's just not rated for continuous use at the highest settings.

CO2 seems to give better penetration than flux wire, at least for me. And the welds are a lot cleaner. CO2/Argon gives you a lot less spatter than just CO2. But with this machine, wind can be a problem when using gas. Even a slight breeze can affect the shielding.

Anyone ever try the bronze brazing wire in a MIG?

 

I've never had a problem having to stop after a 2" bead with my Lincoln Pro-100...I usually do 4" sections on 2x4 3/16th gauge tubing, give it a rest and keep on trucking...is your miller fan cooled at all?

 

There is a fan running, and I could probably go a much longer bead, but there were a few times that I've had it trip off after doing several long beads when it was on the highest setting. I just plan shorter beads now. It's never an issue when welding thinner stuff, which is 95% of what I do anyway.

Anyway, I like the little machine. It works really well for almost everything automotive.

 

I've used a 100 amp lincoln 110v for a lot of frame work (z-ing etc). Multible passes. I've become a master of the figure 8. It takes longer but it works.
If you're unsure about your skills don't do it.

 

Gaps, bevelling, and grooves are your friend.

I got a Miller 135 that after some Learnin', I feel pretty comfortable with welding up to 3/16"...

I wouldn't try it with a lesser welder, some good professional eyes/advice, or some good bead-running experience... And make SURE you can get to the back side of the weld.

 

My little Lincoln will burn right through 1/8" plate if I crank her up. It will need some cool down time if I try to weld more than 6" on the highest settings but works awesome.

I did use the much larger Lincoln in the shop to weld up the S10 frame on the 49 after I cut it in half. Bevelled everything and made sure it was clean, and it welded up beautifully. A gusset inside the C-channel and I will box that area when I am done - be bulletproof.

 

I think the answer is a possibly yes-- depending on the make of the welder, and probably no-- as for the skills of the person doing the welding. Tack it and let a pro do it. Get some scrap and make some stuff to practice.

 

Flux core does burn hotter. You just gotta get used to flux, and get used to cleaning up the welds afterwards and you get a good weld.

 

I think at this point I am going to buy a 220 volt machine, probably the one suggested earlier, and learn to use it. I got plenty of stuff to practice on.
CHAZ