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Technical 55 ford not starting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by billg51, Jun 6, 2021.

  1. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    Went to start 55 with 272 y block , turn key nothing ,put in new battery , new ground wire , new selinoid , voltage reg , new orig ignition switch and key cylinder , when you turn key gets power to selinoid . Car stars when hit ****on on selinoid , still 6 volt , car turns off after running when you shut the key on ignition . Does anyone have any ideas . The ign is still hanging under dash but does turn Power on do you think it needs to be mounted to dash to ground the the ignition switch although hanging it turns power on but won’t open selinoid to engage starter? Car is still 6 volt
     
  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,375

    BJR
    Member

    Does it start if you hook a jumper wire from the battery to the small terminal on the solenoid? If not the solenoid is bad. Not the first time new parts are bad. If it does start with the jumper you have a broken wire from the key switch to the solenoid or the switch is wired wrong or bad.
     
    Moriarity and Elcohaulic like this.
  3. Check to make sure the solenoid is grounded. If a 4 post solenoid, make sure the start wire is hooked to the 'S' terminal.
     
  4. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    I ran a wire from selinoid to ignition to check that wire and still nothing
     
  5. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    I hooked it on the ign post of the ign switch and the small terminal in th front of the selinoid
     
  6. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

  7. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    When I put the key in the on position and press ****on on top of selinoid it starts right up ,I have power at battery connection on selinoid and at the front post where the ign wire goes
     
  8. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,213

    Elcohaulic

    I never liked that bonded style of terminal. They can get corroded under the insulation and you never know it.
     
  9. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    The 6 volt selinoid I bought has the push ****on on top where the original does not , would that make a difference
     
  10. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    Do u think I should change the negative power terminal to selinoid also
     
  11. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    It’s a 3 post terminal
     
  12. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

  13. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,393

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The solenoid is working manually, but not electrically - there's the clue. Hotwire the solenoid to see if it' will operate electrically. If it is trace back to the key to find the loss of power. The solenoids with the push ****on come in handy some times! Not seen one for years!

    Chris
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  14. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,760

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    SOLENOID with an O.
    you need to have someone turn the key to start while you test for voltage at the S terminal
     
    Ford52PU, 1Shot-Scot, BJR and 3 others like this.
  15. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    Starter has power wire to it and it starts up from ****on on selinoid so I think starter is ok
     
  16. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    Ok I will test s terminal with someone turning key , there’s definitely power at ign and ign wire to selinoid it’s a echlin selinoid 6v but I haven’t checked if s side has power with someone turning key if not then bad selinoid right
     
  17. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,760

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

  18. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,213

    Elcohaulic

    Remember just because the meter or tester shows power, that doesn't mean it's enough power to spin the starter motor. Think of the flow of electrons.
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  19. :rolleyes:

    SOLENOID!!

    selinoid sounds like a bad rash :D

    when activating the SOLENOID manually the engine starts, that’s great as it proves you have a good connection from the battery to the starter on the main power cable.

    a SOLENOID is essentially a controlled short that creates an electromagnet. Positive on one side of the copper windings and negative on the other and “****” magic in a can !!!

    as you’ve been told.
    Make sure your on the S terminal of the SOLENOID and getting a good 12. Volt signal also check that your ground wire is properly grounded nice and clean.

    one way to verify your SOLENOID is working correctly is to get a positive and negative jumper wire directly from your battery to the S terminal and ground on your SOLENOID that way you have just proved your SOLENOID is working electrically and then it’s rather simple to chase down the offending power or ground circuit going to your SOLENOID.

    sorry man, good luck with this and I just couldn’t help breaking your cans just a wee bit :D
     
    Ford52PU and Moriarity like this.
  20. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Those look like the el-cheapo "universal" cables sold in parts stores now, from you know where. They just stuff the cable end in the terminal and solder. Total junk.
     
  21. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,396

    sunbeam
    Member

    The small terminal should have continuity to the base . If it has check to see if the base has a good ground.
     
  22. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,491

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    NO. If there is no power to the "S" terminal when someone turns the key to the "START" position you have a wiring or ignition switch issue. Your SOLENOID is likely OK.
     
    Ford52PU likes this.
  23. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    "Starter Relay" people, "Starter Relay".
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    good luck trying to get folks to use correct terminology....
     

  25. Relay , solenoid , contactor , electrical latch .

    also heard them called remotes , triggers and fires .

    More then one way to skin a cat !

    for semantics the one shown to me, is a solenoid.
    Different strokes for different folks.


    One thing for sure it’s not a beer !!!:D
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    A solenoid is a device that uses an electromagnet to cause linear motion.

    A relay is a device that uses an electromagnet to actuate an internal switch.

    Relays generally contain solenoids, but they have the added component of a switch. So, the thing on a Ford that switches the power that goes to the starter, is a relay. It's more than just a solenoid.
     
  27. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,375

    BJR
    Member

    If you followed the info in post #2 it would be working now.
     
  28. billg51
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 204

    billg51
    Member
    from Ct

    Thank you all will try everything tonight hopefully will be something stupid like just a bad selinoid , will report back after I try
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  29. Is it possible that your "solenoid" starter relay is an older type that is supposed to see a ground signal to engage the starter (like on a car with a push ****on on the dash to start) rather than a hot signal from the switch?

    The father of a friend of mine used to call the solenoid, a starter switch, which I suppose would be correct also.
     
    sunbeam likes this.
  30. MeanGene427
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 2,307

    MeanGene427
    Member
    from Napa

    I ran into this with my OT 928 a while back, and found out it was a common problem, the "yellow wire". The wire from the switch to the starter solenoid (yellow insulation) would degrade over time until even though it would show 12V when triggered, it wouldn't power the fussy 928 solenoid- sometimes... Brought it home on a rollback one day, and the *&^$ started right up when I got it home and tried it lol...Found lots of info about replacing the wire through the harness, but tried something else first. Hooked up a standard 12V Ford solenoid to the yellow wire, and it would throw the solenoid every time. I hung the Ford solenoid from the shock tower brace with yellow to S, and 12V on one power post and the other to the 928 starter solenoid- works perfect, and with a little cable armor over the wires, looks like it came that way
     

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