Has anyone stretched the body of a Model A. The build I'm starting on is a 30 Model A coupe. I'm 6'4" and my Dad is 6'6". I'd like to fit in this car with at least a modi*** of comfort. The last car I built was not altered (no chop or channel) and it is tough to get in, out, and drive even with the package tray removed, a tilt column, and sitting on a cut down seat. I'm thinking I can stretch the door openings 3-4 inches as well as extend the doors as much. I'm looking to see if anyone has done this before so I don't have to reinvent the wheel so to speak.
How he does it is a mystery !! Trade secrets [emoji6][emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Green Grenade (look it up) did it years ago with sedan doors and I think he even added height to the body with an anti-section. The coupe still looked in proportion, probably because of the Hemi in the engine bay.
I have done it. It’s super easy. You will need to add like 7/8” to the door sill and roof piece.i have also made the doors mount flush, which adds anothe 1/2 inch. Every little bit helps.
Tudor sedan doors is the key. Another tip I heard that I plan to add to my T roadster is a little pocket that drops down in between the frame rails, just in front of the pedals, for your feet to go a little lower. Keeps your knees from folding up into your chest. With an A on a 32 frame you could drop the pedals down a significant amount, basically do like the channeled guys do but on an unchanneled body. If you can't stretch your legs out with front to back length, you can at least drop them down.
I'm 6'5" and 280lbs. It is a tight opening to get in and out of. But very comfortable to drive, and I even have "real" seats.
I'm 6'3" and weigh 230 and have driven Model A's for 30 years, takes a while to learn to get in and out. I have a 30 pickup as a daily driver and my knees barely clear the steering wheel. My avatar had the package tray removed and was a little better to drive but still hard to get into. I've seen them stretched thru the doors with sedan doors and isn't noticeable with a longer wheel base.
Stretching the body is one option but there are options such as putting the body onto a longer 32 Ford frame and shortening the parcel shelf. Both will give you more room.
I did a '30-'31 coupe body with '30-'31 tudor / truck doors back in '15 ... it added 1.75" to the door opening... the tudor doors are 4" taller than the top of the upper hinge... coupe is only 3" from the top of the hinge up... all 3 hinges from both cars will line up... to add more maybe get [4] coupe or [4] tudor doors, cut beyond center and splice the two oversize door halves together... use the leftovers halves to make '28-'29 style [square], '30-'31 closed car roadster pick up cab quarters, leaving the overlapped and pinched jams showing, run the back panel from the door jam qtr [cab] to the other qtr [cab]...
In addition to the Green Grenade method of using sedan doors AND making the body taller... You could also use a 1932 frame with the floor sunk to the bottom of the frame, Like this awesome build: (yeah I know its a Roadster, but the technique gave a ton of interior room) THE UNIBODY ROADSTER: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-unibody-roadster-dissected.331971/ Ya gotta do what ya gotta do do enjoy your hot rod, Gregger
hello, I'm 6,56 ft tall and I decided to stretch my 28 pickup. I didn't want it to look unnatural. So first - I used coupe doors (are longer and lower). Second - I made a new side rear panels (longer a few cm than oryginal). I have enought space.
Been thinking about this for awhile. Stretching the doors seems to be the least noticeable way to go. It makes it easier to get in and out too. I see that Howells sells a 4 foot length of 30-31 beltline patch panel that might help. Then either splice two doors skins together or make a new skin that is longer. So many different ways to do it. There is a guy on here that did his ccpu that way and with the stock height door it gives the impression that it has been chopped.
Have a buddy that has a 31 truck and they added 3" in the doors. Funny thing is sitting by itself at car shows you really don't notice it. Darryl starbirds grandson did alot of the body work, codi did a really nice job and he's a hell of a nice kid too...
View attachment 5084109 View attachment 5084103 View attachment 5084109 View attachment 5084103 View attachment 5084103 View attachment 5084103 View attachment 5084103 View attachment 5084103 My 1930 coupe has extended cowl , i know what your thinking , I bought like this . The extension used original firewall , I’ve got hanging pedals , lots of leg room
that’s the green grenade on the left. there was a really nice comparison write up about these 2 by Brian b***. The pics are gone though.
I built a 3 window 29 model A. Took 4 doors and cut them 2" off vertical center. 2 on the right and 2 on the left. Then welded the bigger ones together. 4" wider door, just one seam. Moved the roof forward 4" so the 1/4 window was gone. It made a big difference getting in and out. The lines flowed real nice. Hard to do if you add a 4" strip in the middle.
'30-'31 coupe doors are 27.5" at the beltline... tudor / trucks are 29.25"... buys you 1.75"... all 3 door hinges will fit... measuring from the top of the upper hinge up a tudor is 4", coupes are 3"... to flush fit check out the cowl's door jam it has the flush fit built in , use them as patch panels, could let you add a little behind the door... HIH.
My sedan has tons of room inside it. I'm 6'2 250 and I fit just fine. I know the seat will go back more. Thinking about selling it as retirement is approaching and the money back in the bank would be nice. Love Model A's.
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