I have a 1964 Pontiac Catalina with the ez wiring 12 circuit I’m putting in my headlight switch the dash lights always stay on and on my turn signals I can’t get to work it seems my turn gauge ac/heat and coil fuse do not have any power to them when I test them with test light. Thank you for any help you would have
These probably get power from the ignition switch? I'd check that the ignition switch is working. The light switch..you'll have to give more details about how you have it wired. Pictures help a lot. Some times dash light and turn signal problems have to do with the gauge cluster not being properly grounded.
The EZ Wiring fuse block has a couple of linked bars installed, which powers a row of fuses, either directly from the battery, or through the "on" circuit of the ignition switch. It appears by what you describe is the headlight switch is wired incorrectly and is powering the dash lights constantly. Gauges, a/c, and coil is usually powered by the on circuit, and sounds like no power supply. Squirrel is right, more info is needed.
How clear are the instructions? I always but THEIR headlight switch when I get a harness (not from EZ). Harness kits force you to do it their way and not the way the car was configured from the factory.
You can sort out the removed factory headlight switch with an ohm-meter. Typically they have 5 posts. One power, two parking light posts, one headlight post, and one dash light post integral with a rheostat. It would help to have a factory wiring schematic. With that and the EZ kit instructions, things will be much easier.
I have a factory wiring diagram and the ez wiring for headlight switch White wires go to door jam Red wire goes to fuse power Green wire is unfused power Gray wire is dash lights Brown wire is parking lights front and rear but dash lights will stay on but everything else works as should now the ignition got tricky had 8 prongs but only used 4 Ing sw coil and the ign sw ing wire to took to prong labeled 2 Ing sw power took to the b prong Ing sw start took to the s prong Ing ACC took to the a prong now for directional signal Purple to flasher wire Yellow to lr turn Green to rr turn The double light blue is with left indicating light and left front signal The double dark blue is right indicator and right front signal I know it’s a mess I’ve never done this before and wanted to learn but now I’m getting kinda overwhelmed thank you for any help
I'd work on one thing at a time, until that is accomplished, then move on, in this order. 1. Ignition switch 2. Headlight switch 3. Turn signal problem 4. Other?
I think the ignition switch is right and working but I maybe wrong and that might be why I’m having problems else where
I have installed 2 kits in the past that the signal flasher did not work. First kit I looked for hours what the problem may be , 2 kit it was evident much quicker .
If I use the hazard wire on the purple wire And take out the purple wire from flasher everything works but works through the hazard fuse and relay but works with car off because of being hazard wire and that I’m asking for problems if leave a signal on
So messing around with wiring some should the coil and and see start wire go to a prong on ignition that has power when key is on or a prong that has power only as cranking ? I put it on prong that had power with key on and it gave power to my fuses that weren’t getting power so I do have my ignition wiring messed up any help would be appreciated
Coil pink wire should have power when car is running. The small purple wire to starter solenoid should only have power in the start position of ignition switch.
That’s a wiring diagram of cars old wiring and a photo of the wires I have with new harness the one prong has power when cranking now when car starts to m not sure if it keeps power I don’t have car to that point yet, but I think that’s the one I would want to starter solenoid because the power probably shuts off after, now the coil should that only get power after the car starts up or when key is turned forward ?
The ignition switch, the wire pin for the coil is the one with power in BOTH run and start. Do you have a meter so you can put key into switch and see which connectors are active in each key position?
I do have a meter what should I be looking for when I use the meter, I used a test light earlier and saw the prongs that turned on when turned key to on and the ones that turned off when key was off and one prong light up as I held key and turned motor and stopped lighting when I stopped cranking but left key on
I received great service from the EZ Wire tech support when I had a question. I have installed two of their kits.
I use the ohm meter rather than a battery and test light. I try to keep battery disconnected when I'm working. Set the date ohm meter to a small/low number scale like 20 ohms. One lead goes to battery input on switch. The other lead you move from pin to pin while setting the key to each of it's four positions. Much the same as using a test light. Just don't have to deal with 400 cold cranking amps in your workspace. Sounds like you are making progress.
Rebel Wire appears to have a superior tech support as they are an Alliance Member here and frequently offer tips and assistance in a dedicated thread here. While I have no experience with EZ Wire I am glad I went with a Rebel Wire kit.
Only time I've ever had trouble with new wire harness kits is when I had to re-pin the connector for lights, and signals on the column. Both times it turned out to be pinned wire connectors that didn't hold when plugged in, and simply pushing the individual wires in on both sides of the connectors fixed the problems I saw.
Rebel is good on customer service, so is Kwik Wire. I called them to verify what I already thought was right. Now they put more information up on their site.
Thank you I will give that a try when I get home from work and I think I am making lead way on the project sometimes I just have to walk away for a bit and come back later to it I will let you know how I make out with it thank you.
The dash lights feed off the rheostat. Turn the rheostat switch all the way one way and you turn the dome lights on because you ground the dome lights just as you would when you open the door and the door button grounds them. Turn it the other way and it controls the power to the dash lights to control how bright or dim you want them. That should feed from the head or park light power and only come on if you have the switch in either head or park light position. I'm with Pprather in that I use an ohm meter to figure out where the circuits go and how they feed.
So I got car running and everything working properly minus the horn and done lights not turning off with door switches ? The horn will beep if I push the the button with my test light grounded so I’m thinking it a ground issue and the dome light I’m kinda at a loss
Yes, normally they do. Power is fused then sent to dome light. Also some headlight switches have ground on rheostat to switch the dome circuit on.
There is no switch at dome light but not that I look at it I have the headliner out of car I wonder if housing is grounding to the roof of car and that’s completing the circuit and causing the light to stay on ?
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