Hey guys, can sombody here tell me what make en model this steering Rack is? i noticed a lot off Slack in the steering wheel and wanted to replace this one with the same make and model..
not a steering rack but a steering box, similar to an early ford falcon or mustang but I am not sure, are there numbers on the tag attached to the box ? that could help you identify it. The screw with the lock nut at the top is the adjustment for the end play, if the box is not worn out you may just need to adjust it.
thanks a lot ! im going to try and adjust it first ! i had to google the translation and it came up with "steeringrack"
Yes, Mr. Fish. It's indeed a steering BOX. As @Rocco611 pointed out, probably a mid-'60s Mustang. To adjust, loosen the lock nut on the long stud at the 'top' of the box. (this 'top' would be 'up' in the original vehicle it came in) Jack the front up 'til tires are off the ground. Make sure the wheels are in the straight ahead position, as the 'worm' has a high point at the center...(best was is to turn steering wheel all the way to one side, then count turns to the other. Turn back half the number of turns.) Now, loosen the nut, and turn the screw slotted stud in gently, 'til it's just snug. Turn wheel left and right, if it binds at all, stop it there (straight ahead? Hopefully) and slightly back off adjustment. If all is smooth, tighten the lock nut and road test. Yep. Steering BOX. Don't know where you got that Rack Opinion! -corny pun. Somebody had to do it...
It matches the Falcon and or Mustang boxes shown in these two Ebay listings. Top one is the early box 64/65 that came from the factory with a solid shaft up to the steering wheel If it is that one the steering shaft was cut off and the U joint was affixed to it. eBay item number: 324622089632 This is the 68 and later box that was made for the collapsible column that was required starting in 68. eBay item number: 164944061027 If it is this one the builder replaced the rag joint with the U joint and the shaft where the U joint hooks up will have the splines in it as shown in one of the photos.
that metal tag will tell you what it's from...s****e it off, take a picture. One thing that helps when trying to find looseness in steering, is to have someone else wiggle the steering wheel back and forth a bit, just enough to take up the slack, as you watch things under the car, and see where things stop wiggling (in the path from steering wheel to tire).
If you’re going to adjust the box, do as @A****er Mike says, lock to lock, back 1/2 way. Don’t worry about where the steering wheel or tires are pointing. You want to be in the middle of the box. @squirrel brings up some good points as well. Might be a little play in several places.
Hey Guys, Today i had the chance to adjust the Slack in my steeringbox! i did exactly what you guys told me and there was indeed room for adjustment! so i tightend it up a bit . when front wheels are up , there is just a littlebit of Slack in the steeringwheel when i wobble the steeringwheel i can see the front tires move almost direct. but when turning the steerinwheel i can feel the sprokkets inside the steeringbox (was already there before adjusting) took it for a little testdrive, but i'm still all over the road.. maybe i have to adjust the caster first ? at the moment it sits at 3 degrees positive. (it should be at 7 right?) maybe thats why i am al over my driving lane i also found a Number on top of the steerinbox i could not take a picture of the metal tag (phone was to close)
Sure looks like a late 60's Mustang box to me. Have you checked the lube inside it? I use John Deere cornhead grease in my steering boxes, but I bet that would be hard to get in Germany. Yes, I would suggest adjusting your caster to 5 degrees with those radials. Maybe try 7 if you feel you need more. Did you check all the other joints in the steering system for slop? Grease them all, and the kingpins too?
There is a New Holland cornhead grease New Holland Corn Head EP Grease Part # B95920 That may be easier to find in Europe. Or use the B95920 to interchange with local sources. The part number for John Deere Corn Head Grease - Part # AM102562
i did not check the Grease inside the steering box... (next thing on my list) thanks for the tip! all the other joints and the Kingpins are okay and already greased..
I wouldn't recommend it. It is lower in viscosity than ch***is grease and ch***is grease isn't that expensive as it is. It's a lot thicker than gear oil but not as thick as ch***is lube. Meaning that it will flow in the gears but doesn't flow so well that it leaks most of the time. You might try a local to you agriculture equipment dealer for the grease.
C7Z means 1967 Mustang. How is the toe in? Are there any other loose parts in the steering or suspension? It's not easy for us to get under there and look and move things, from this side of the ocean.
the toe in, i dont know exactly.... the thing is ,i dont have a bridge at the moment... because my hotrod friend has to many projects at the moment.. so, for me it's also not easy to get under there but in a few weeks we are getting her on the bridge and check everything for the time being , i'm just working on the easy things there is a Little bit of Slack on one Kingpin , but thats really little the suspention in the front ... i dont know, the back is a mess .. but we deal with that when she is on the bridge at my friend. i do appreciate the effort!!
You mentioned w “With the front wheels up” and slack. You need to check all the play in the steering with it on the ground. It’s really a two person job.
While I am no mechanic, I have driven a lot of Ford trucks during my working career. Seems all of them needed a adjustment. I bought a nice 1 ton van with a rebuilt trans and new motor for $1k because the Contractors crew would not drive it with sloppy steering. Took 5 min to adjust and it steered beautiful for over 12 years. What I have read, you need to be careful and only turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn. Then drive it and let the gears wear into each other .... then later after a few months if still needed 1/4 turn again. You do not want to just dive in and crank it down. Just sneak up on it 1/4 turn at a time. On the flip side, there is a limit to how far you can adjust them. I had a 1969 1 ton dually that I adjusted a few times. And it steered good. Right up to the time the gear broke inside the box. As you pull the gears in closer and closer with , the wear makes them thinner & thinner ... weaker.
The Jalopy Journal
