Firstly, I want thank any respondents in advance. I am planning my first traditional build and have posted questions here before and the outpouring of advice, shared experience and encouragement is amazing. My plan is for a traditional build, likely a '29 Model A I have a line on. Undecided on the engine. In a perfect world it's a flathead, hands-down. I've done some homework and read what I can about the flathead and I'm aware of the expense etc. As a kid I built a couple of sbc's and so am comfortable with it. Still can't let go of the idea of the flathead. Am aware that 75% of the "ran when parked 50 years ago" FH motors with have cracked blocks etc. Ran across this ad local to me and hope for some opinions on it. I'm in CA and close enough to H&H Flatheads that I could utilize them. The ad is below. Again, thanks in advance 1946 Mercury 59 Block Completely dis***embled and degreased for inspection, most external parts have been media blasted. Cylinders @ .040 needs to be rebored, should clean up at .060, decks and ports magna fluxed ok, no visible repairs. STD 3.75 Crank needs to be ground, 10/10 should clean it up 59ab Heads magna fluxed ok 8ba Rods Hard seats Pan Timing cover Oil pump Stock Intake Exh manifolds, no cracks Flywheel Misc hardware
Check the pan rails for cracks as well. No mention of valve train. FWIW, I sold a bare block with just the main caps, was going to need 1 sleeve, no cracks for either 250 or 275 about 6 or 7 years ago. It was a 59a block. Seems like the seller is being upfront with what is there.
I notice it is a 59A block, but 8BA rods. Hopefully, the crankshaft is 8BA as well, since using 8BA rods with the 59A crankshaft can cause problems. The 59A crank uses full-floating bearings and has one oil hole per journal. while 8BA rods use "locked-in" individual inserts and require a "two hole" crankshaft.
@tubman would know for sure. If it helps, I’ve a set of Rods left from my 59a , crank too for that matter, if they’re of use to you you can have them.
Late 3-3/4" cranks are almost free around here, everybody wants Merc cranks. As said, the important things to look for are cracks and make sure the caps are still on it. Don't worry about any valve train as you should buy all late style anyway (no split guides).
Depends on what the price is, but I'll tell you this certainly seems safer than a lot of mystery blocks, which very often turn out to be junk. Starting with something that's already been dis***embled and mag'd for cracks is a big step up.
Put eyes on it before purchasing if you can. You already know what all to look for. If it checks out, I would look at cost as you have mentioned.
I just got back from a usual day, and saw that a few of you "Liked" my post. I just reviewed the original post with a little clearer mind. I am sorry to say that the original ad (if we look at the syntax and contents), looks to me like a person trying to get rid of a pile of junk. Nowhere does it say that the block is any good; why would someone claim that it is "degreased for inspection, most external parts have been media blasted" and go no further? This statement is particularly su****ious to me : "decks and ports magna fluxed ok, no visible repairs". My advice? "Run Forest, Run". I also agree with "51504bat" above.
I'm with tubman. The words should and should don't ring at $875. I have a 'ran when parked 59AB' sitting in the junk room. There's no telling what it needs. When the money is available I'm first going to warm up one of my orange small blocks. Its called "Going with your strengths"!
How about asking the seller if the two of you could bring the dismantled engine to H&H to examine as a candidate for rebuilding? It would be reasonable to pay H&H a few bucks for their time, if it's concluded that this is not a good candidate for rebuild.
The only thing I see, is that it's a '46 engine, in all of the old magazines, the builder used a '48 Merc engine and a '39 box.
That does seem priced quite high, a HAMBr (frames) has some nice looking FHs in the cl***ifieds for sale, I realize it’s more cash out of pocket in one purchase, but buying a block and then sending it to a shop is just delaying that cash outlay for awhile.
Price seems high as others have mentioned. Non-running flatheads in my area (Ontario, Quebec) are around CAN$500.00. I picked up my dis***embled C59A engine up for CAN$100.00. A few years back. I lucked out, and block was fine except for one minor crack from one of the head bolt threaded holes and a ******ed thread in another (Keensert was used to fix). FWIW, I seem to recall many folks also not being happy with H&H on here due to long wait times.
Hello, Having owned a Flathead powered 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery for many years of our teenage surfing and cruising times, one thing stuck out. No horsepower like a modern SBC motor or other forms of OHV v8 power. It was obvious when a small normal hill on a fast highway was preventing us from the normal 3 gear cruise. A little power on the previous down hill portion allowed us to start up the next steeper slope on this coastal PCH highway in Laguna Beach in 3rd gear. But, despite being loaded with surfboards, beach stuff and two-three teenagers, the car had power on flat roads and highways. Instantly, one noticed a need to downshift to 2nd to make a slight climb on a angled slope in the road. Stepping on the gas was at its limits and there just was not enough power to continue, unless downshifting to 2nd. That was surprising the first time, but the continued road trips made us try different angles of approaching that slope. It all came down to not enough horsepower from that Flathead motor. We our limited income and bank accounts, we could not put in that high horsepower Flathead from Reath Automotive to equal horsepower of the ohv v8 motors. The cost was just too much. Now, if your Flathead has some horsepower equivalent to the ohv v8 motors like a 283 or 327, then you are in business. Jnaki So, if you are in any area with steep slopes or even considering driving up into the local mountains, the lack of horsepower from a Flathead that is not built up will hinder all normal action going uphill. Everyday flat highways created no problems for us, but the slightest sloping roadway created instant lack of power and downshifting. YRMV One other slope in the San Diego County near Torrey Pines State Park is the dreaded Highway 1 going South. “101 at Torrey Pines? My reliable, stock, Flathead motor in the 40 Ford Sedan Delivery in 1961 was a little under powered with two 45 lb surfboards stuck out of the rear window, sleeping bags, cooler, clothes, two to three guys and stuff in the back. It got us to the Torrey Pines grade from Long Beach, but had to be in 2nd gear to get up that long hill drive to the top.” “If we stopped at the bottom to check out the surf, the start up that grade never got out of 2nd. If we got a high speed run in 3rd gear from Del Mar down the other side of Penasquitos Lagoon, we might have gotten 1/2 way up the hill grade before 2nd had to be engaged.” “Even today, the Torrey Pines Grade is a long grade almost equal to the Conejo Grade on the 101 Freeway coming from Santa Barbara into LA. That steep Conejo Grade kept this Flathead 40 Ford Sedan Delivery on the flat Coast Highway 1 running along the Malibu Coast every time.” The worst times were if the waves at the beach at the base of the grade, Torrey Pines State Beach/Parking area were good and we stopped to check it out, our next step in driving up that steep grade to the top of the hill was in first gear all the way. Despite continuous efforts to shift to 2nd, the Flathead’s lack of power and gravity on the sedan delivery was against us all the way up. Even if we did get into 2nd, and another driver slowed down in the slow lane, it was instantly back into first gear to continue the climb. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/not-to-be-left-out-the-all-inclusive-flathead-thread.1223145/page-3#post-14006987 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1940-flathead.1210932/#post-13822047 “JUST HOW RELIABLE IS A FLATHEAD TODAY” As far as @HOTRODPRIMER and the “reliable topic is for today” motors, it is a viable motor if done right and maintained. My stock Flathead was rebuilt by the previous owner before he stuck it back in the 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery. He took the 348 motor he had installed and put the Flathead motor back in place. I could not afford the price he was asking for the 348 powered sedan delivery, although it would have been pretty fabulous. As he was an expert mechanic, his skills were not questionable. But, the Flathead motor in stock form was so reliable that as a teenager, that was the most fun driving around. It started every time I wanted it to start. Never leaked any kind of oil or fluids. It took me places I had always wanted to go for our surf trips and did not falter, except for climbing steep roadways and sloping grades on the major highways. We never took it to the local mountains during ski season. It just would not make the climb. Along the coast of So Cal, it is usually flat, but there are several places that were challenging to an underpowered Flathead motor. YRMV
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