Projects Belly Tank Build, NZ.

I have a system in my head that uses a push pull and twist arrangement that may have a steering universal in it in case it has to have a small bend in it. I may have to do a sketch of it as this is something i want to have a go at doing myself. JW

 

What's your plan with cooling?, I cant decide on radiator, radiator in water tank, or heat exchanger and water tank.
I don't like the aero loss of running a radiator but a large water tank is going to be a lot of weight, not a problem on a long course at Bonneville, but possibly a disadvantage on a short course that my tank will be used on.

 

It will be a radiator, i still have enough room in front of the motor but air flow would be limited but if i fit a cross flow unit beside the R/H side of the motor i can duct air and even fit an electric fan. I am leaning toward the front position as i want it to be more vintage in style. As for a water tank, the water could ad the same weight as carrying an 80 kg passenger. I will need to put the seat back in and see exactly how far forward i can sit then allow for roll cage and fire wall and see whats left. In the mean time i 'm sorting the motor mounts. Photos soon with a decision on the radiator. JW

 

FWIW, I run a water tank only, no radiator.
I use about 6-7 gallons of water so roughly 50-60#.
In the short runs, El Mirage I have to warm the motor and tank to 140f. at the end of the run about 160-170 f.
At B'ville, 3 mile run ambient start ~90 f. and end about 170-180 f.
This is OHV Ford B motor.

John

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...e=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

...I just thought I'd share this for interest and inspiration...I spotted it for sale up this way and it seems to capture the Vintage Vibe...I have no affiliation to this just sharing...

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Mine is being set up with a radiator AND intercooler in a water/ice tank. a bilge pump goes to a spray bar that gently douches the fins. The rad is a tiny cooler off a GTP car.

 

John, i have considered having a radiator AND a small water tank. If i put the radiator up front it will be an Alloy Model A item, similar size to a 37 Willys car one.
Stogy, that is a very Sexy vintage Tank, thats how i was originally going to make mine years ago until i went to Bonneville and got bitten buy the Salt Bug.
Tman, that is a cool idea....no pun intended. JW

 

4 Banger too...



Very primitive...primitive good...yes this would only be allowed to run at stepped down competitions...but still must be a hoot...

You can do local competitions and Dry Lakes with what your configuring now...

Credit to Photographer, Owner
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Yes i can. I 'm using the SCTA rule book for this build and Landspeed NZ has less criteria. I have spoken to the President of Landspeed NZ and if its done to run on the Salt its OK to run here. Will call him again soon and get clarification on a number of things.
Made some templates for the motor mounts so will have something for show n tell soon. JW

 

This is the type of thing I see as pointless. Build a real racecar or don't at all. I get it, SCTA has the most stringent safety regs in all of motorsport. But, if @Bobby Green can do it with style you can too.

 

I read that this was an acquired build and I'm aware of the place selling it...I am not a well versed SCTA follower nor highly knowledgeable in the dynamics of how the vintage tanks were constructed...I just thought it had an inspired look that resonated with earlier times...

I am also aware of Bobby Greens and Koolkat's Belly Tank racers both constructed to as you alluded more authentic period examples...

It was not my intention to diminish or negatively influence the build being undertaken...

 

Oh, I understand your point, it does look cool.

 

These are really built for one thing only...racing, and nowadays if you truly want to race there are standards that have to be met...I guess even Hotrods fall into this category if you truly want to compete at a modern capacity...

It's basically reduced from the get go to something like my Hotrod, a run what you brung...IF I was even allowed to do that...which is really not a true competition...fun yes but much less serious in nature...so yes a lot of work to make something you can only race in amateur racing and not even be street legal...

 

Found this a few hours ago. I had no idea you were doing this, but I approve very much.
Keep the pace up JW, I'll be looking for the first start up vid shortly.

 

Thanks, Jeff and hope you are well down on the West Coast, thanks for tagging along. JW

 

JW I think I have a 3 foot morse cable I can send if you want it.
Terry aka dirt t

 

Hi, Terry. At this point i don't think i will have any cables as it will have hydraulic throttle, clutch and hand operated rear brakes. I will keep it in mind just in case though, thanks Bud. JW

 

Made the motor mounts and fitted them to the frame, all went much to plan which was good. As with the axles and g-box they are also adjustable in 1/2 '' increments. JW

 

Seeing that front shot are you planning on "hand cranking" electric start, or push start?

 

Electric start is planned but with the push bar i could do push starts although the push bar is for high gear start offs. JW

 

Put a piece of timber on the front of the mustang and Mandy could push start the tanker. A real family affair.

 

Close, Andy, the Roadster PU will get the timber and Mandy is looking forward to having a go in both seating positions. Cool !! JW

 

I have decided to go with the radiator in front of the motor. I will have about 1 1/2 '' from the front of the radiator to the fire wall and with some louvers there i can direct some air flow. The item in there is from a 33-9 Willys car and is of similar size to the Model A radiator in my RPU. The vertical piece of pipe is to give reference for the back of the roll cage, it can go back another 2'' but the chassis brace (temporary) is in the way, i will move it. The seat will go back 2'' also. i sat in it for about half an hour trying the feel for peddles etc. JW

 

In a week i should have my bearing adapters sorted for the spindles and i can then set the radius rods and have it as a roller. I had a measure and the top of the roll cage will just fit under the fairing that's going on (see 2nd post in thread) that will be widened etc to fit. We both got on the front and i had a bounce to check spring travel, all good but i may take some set out of the minor leaves to flatten it a tad. JW

 

No photos today but i have ordered an Alloy Model A radiator that will be here in a couple days. I will make an MDF copy of it so i can have that in place and lesson the risk of of damaging it. Sorting the steering out is in the very near future and i got a '30 Model A hand brake lever that I'm working out it's operation and mounting. JW

 

Radiator turned up today. It appears to be around twice the cooling surface of the Willys one so that's good. Will start figuring the mountings for it soon but the bottom hose outlet aims straight at the right engine mount, i knew there would be a mod of some sort...easy fix. JW

 

I bought three of these 3/4'' master cylinders for clutch, accelerator and hand operated rear brakes. The Model A lever will be mounted on the r/hand side with the M/ cylinder mounted forward of it with a new longer push rod. I hope to not have to bend the lever to fit with the curve of the body...will find out soon. JW

 

Looks great. As the old cowboy would say
GEEEEETER DONE.

 

Trying hard, Terry, but as i'm designing as i go i have to stand back and check that i'm not painting myself into a corner. The seat height is a good example as it can't go down as low as i want due to a chassis hoop but i have a plan to notch the sides of the seat base to fit around it. More progress soon. JW