I have seen the different setups and surfed the different web site for kits but being the person I am I am very interested in build a homemade set up.I have come across different parts that I think could be used.What I need to know is 1- what size tank to get,thinking of using a small air pig? 2- what size bag diameter to use front and rear? 3- what weight the bags should be ex. 1500/2500psi etc for front and rear? 4- what info should I need to know when looking for Solenoids ex. max pressure,port size (1/4,3/8,1/2 etc)? 5- will a two way switch be good enough for the solenoids? How many switchs? 6- Compressor? thinking of sticking with electic.Should I??how small compressor can you go and still do the job. 7- and any thing that I am over looking that needs to be address?? The setup I am looking to build will only need to rase and lower the front and back,not looking to go side to side.the car will be a 52 Chevy fleetline with a S10 clip. Powered by a SBC.I figure this info will help with bag diameter and weight.
here are my opinions. 1- what size tank to get,thinking of using a small air pig? tank size depends on how much playtime you want. a 5 gallon will work fine if you just want to air up to drive home and slightly adjust going down the road. if you are switch happy and wanna show off a lot two 5 gallons would be better, or 8 gallons or 12's. 2- what size bag diameter to use front and rear? if you are using a s10 front clip i would recommend 2600 pound bags up front (Airlift 2B7's, Slam RE7's SE7's, etc.) for the back I would use Slam Specialties RE8's, the have the best lift and smoothest ride of any bag I've used. 3- what weight the bags should be ex. 1500/2500psi etc for front and rear? most bags are 2500, 2600 or 2700 pound bags. 4- what info should I need to know when looking for Solenoids ex. max pressure,port size (1/4,3/8,1/2 etc)? The size of the valves/solenoids you use all depends on how fast you want it to go up and down. If you only want to use it for show and take things nice and easy I would go with 1/4 inch valves and 3/8 line. or 3/8 line with 3/8 inch valves wouldnt be too slow or too fast. If i was you I'd find someone with airride and see how fast they have theirs because its all preference. 5- will a two way switch be good enough for the solenoids? How many switchs? You need two valves, a dump valve and a fill valve. Even though you can get away with only having 4 valves for front and back i would personally go with 8 valves so each bag has 2 valves because it helps control bodyroll. If you only have 4 valves when you turn the air will transfer between each side and cause tons of bodyroll. with 8 valves it helps stop the severe bodyroll. 6- Compressor? thinking of sticking with electic.Should I??how small compressor can you go and still do the job. The VIAIR 450 Compressor is a great conpressor and is and has been used forever. There are also Air Zeneth compressors that are more powerful than a 450 VIAIR but they also cost 120 bucks more. And depending on what size and how many tank you want will determine how many compressors. For example, a AZ can be used on an 8 gallon tank, anything bigger than 8 gallons of air and you need more than one AZ. A VIAIR 450 can be used on a 5 gallon, if you have two 5 gallon tanks you need two 450's. 7- and any thing that I am over looking that needs to be address?? Don't forget you will need fittings, a link setup for the rear, cups for the front (you can also buy control arms for the front since you are using an s10 clip to make things easier) dont forget a relay for the compressor, a pressure switch. it seems like you have some knowledge of airride but just for kicks go to www.bagginit.com and read all the info on there. it is the best guide to airride on the internet. i hope i helped a little.
Great info thanks.I`m learning alot. Never thought of body roll.So it is best to have each bag on its own.I have see some with the two rear run into one as well as the front.So each bag will need 2 Solenoids.So when they say a two way solenoid it is only good for eather putting air in or releasing? It won`t do both?This is why you see so many Solenoids in a system. the 2 way Solenoids PSI rating is higher then the say a 5 way Solenoids.the 2 ways I looks at are rated at 285 psi while the 5 ways are only 100 psi. When setting up the dump Solenoids do you just leave the solenoids open on one end.Anybody know of a diagram of the line setup on a 8 solenoid system?
I second the body roll comment... When I bagged my Edsel Villager, I used manual valves and shared per axle, Awful handling!!!! dangerous I would say. I have now fitted 3/8 lines and twin valves per bag on my Buick and it handles better than stock, quieter too. good link BTW......
I'm putting together (cobbling) a complete bag system for my '64 Olds and I already have almost everything I need. My tank used to be a R-12 refrigerant can, converted to an air tank years ago. I've got a wealth of 3/8" DOT air line from a guy who builds new big rigs, their company has their own specific line and doesn't use the stuff that comes in the brake kits they order, so I got a ton of it for real cheap. I've got three compressors, a decent sized aftermarket unit marketed through Monroe (the shock people) and a pair of 90's Buick Dynaride compressors which are fairly high PSI but really low volume, plan to run all three together. (or possibly two constantly with one of the little Buick ones wired in separately in case of an emergency) I've got tons of good quality wiring from my old stereo days, and two pairs of bags used from my late model lowrider buddies (2600's and 2500's.) I've also got some manual valves from a guy who upgraded to electric ones. All I need now is a pressure switch and some relays. In my quest to figure out how to do this cheap, I found out that you can convert certain A/C compressors to pump air. You have to add an oiling system to them so they don't seize (Freon acts as a lubricant in an A/C system) and you hook the clutch up to a pressure switch so it'll turn off when the tank is full. You can get tons of air with one of these and way cheaper than electric compressors. Do a search for On Board Air on the Jeep and 4x4 sites to read about the conversion. Also, a friend of mine has a Caprice with bags in it, it has two of the most gigantic compressors in it, but it takes forever to pick the car up. I think it's due to the fact that his airline is like 1/2" inside diameter (looks like garden hose) and it's got a m***ive tank (12 gallons maybe, bigrig truck stuff) Even with his TWO super high end, giant compressors, it takes forever to fill and pick up the car because of the m***ive amount of volume it takes to fill the tanks and the m***ive amount of volume the hoses use. So I've learned that bigger is not always better, I'm using 3/8" airline and 1/4" valves, and a 4 gallon tank running on 3 compressors, should go up and down fast enough to avoid occasional roadkill and not cost a fortune.
Run 3 Compressors!!Why What are you planing on using the system for.All I am after is a daily driver that can be ajusted on the road and can lay down at shows.Nothing too fancy.Do you need 3 Compressors??
RE8's are only 3/4 of an inch more in diameter and have the same collapsed height as the RE7, so I would use RE8's up front if your gunna use RE7's. It will take less pressure to get off the ground using the 8. Just clearance everything real well. not a good idea in my book. I bet they dont have the same cfm exactly, nor the same duty cycle, or max psi. Its sorta like car audio, you CAN run 2 different size subs or two different models or companies in the same enclosure, buts it's going to sound like complete ***. What im saying is, say u have 2 identical compressors and one different make. When you start using them, if one has a different max psi your going to shut those two off while the third compressor (different model) may have a different (higher max) psi and then youj ust doubled the whole air space it has to fill to that higher psi, and you will burn up the compressor. Not sure how it works with numbers and scientifically, but it makes sense, and I know too much air space to fill with on compressor makes it run FAR TOO LONG and burn it to hell.
Think old volvo's from the 80's. Its either sandens u can use or yorks. Each has its advantages. I think the york pumps higher psi quicker, but the sanden can run for days. I THINK teh york is like a RC9 model? Correct me if im wrong someone. Yes, you do have to run an oiling system, but its fairly simple. This is the exact same thing they sell as a EDC for 6-900 bucks through FBI and the like.
Go ahead and run 8 valves, its just a better setup all around. Hit up my buddy Ricky at www.whynotfab.com. He has a double viair 380 setup for a killer price, and it may only come with 4 valves, but just pick up 4 more from him. Personally with an older rod like you guys drive I would stay with 1/4 inch valves, just because its dramatic as **** when you air out all slow, and if your not that good with you switches, its a lot more forgiving. You can always run like 3/8 fill and 1/4 dump so you can pop up real quick to get rollin again, and set your ride height back. Thats my plan with my truck, I just think its killer the way old school cars and trucks look layin out all slowly. As for the system wiring, Ricky has that as well.
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