Awhile back we had a thread on carbs drying out, perhaps due to modern gas. I know mine do, all four carb equipped heaps, and doesn't take more that about a week. Most said they use an electric pump to prime, but one guy mentioned using a motor boat priming bulb, which appealed to my minimalist nature. So I bought two on ebay for $14, and got to try one out today. First I just pulled the hose off at the carbs and plugged it on, just to see if it would pull from the tank through the mechanical pump. It did. Then I hooked it to the carbs, squeezed a couple times until the float needles hit the seats and hit starter. Instant Varoom! Need to get some new FI clamps and hose to tidy it up. So much thanks to whoever mentioned it. That is if ethanol doesn't eat it and catch my car on fire..
Yeah it might be better to mount it away from the engine compartment. But anywhere else I'll be on my knees digging for it. I'll be moving it up closer to the carb so I can keep an eye on it.
Less work now, but every time having to open the hood then squeeze close vs an electric pump with a switch on the inside?
If it is truly "marine approved" it should probably be pretty durable. Marine specs are fairly strict about things like keeping fuel and fuel vapors from ac***ulating in the hull. But the marine specs may also not allow the primer bulb to be mounted near the heat of the engine. They might require that the primer bulb be mounted closer to the fuel tank and farther from the engine compartment.
@Boneyard51 talked of his solution in a thread awhile back. I’ll let him explain it but seems to work for me as well
That's a good solution (***uming it doesn't ****** all over the engine) I had an idea of some kind of spray right down the carb throat. A windshield washer pump might do the trick. One of those small butane refill canisters and some thin tubing might do it too. Diesel engine vehicles - like 5 ton trucks in the .mil and likely many others used to incorporate a standard hardware store blue BernzOmatic propane cylinder mounted on the firewall. A nice big fat push ****on on the dash to aid in cold weather starting. Diesels are notorious for having issues when the temperature dips. They were always disabled, not installed, and/or never ever saw one in a motor pool that actually functioned. I'm pretty sure there's a reason for this.
Not every time, only when it's been sitting, and I usually open the hood then for a look anyway. Actually if I mounted it high enough I wouldn't need to open the hood. You mean the 'crank it for a second and let the bowls fill'? Yeah I've done that and it helps, but with the superchargers it still takes 4-5 cranks.
Talk about minimalist....! My fuel dries up between drives (sometimes a couple of weeks apart) I KNOW its gonna be hard to start so I just pull the air cleaner and spray some Brakleen (I love this stuff)/ether/ carb cleaner/any thing that will burn into the open primaries.......BOOM! fires right up....saves my starter....!! I don't 'sniff' whatever fuel I'm burning because its such a small amount. Sure it may boil the fuel out on these hot days but.......a few extra spins of the starter fixes that. I'd be 'concerned' about the rubber bulb and hose under the hood..but that's just me maybe.... 6sally6
I put one of these on an OT (furrin') car. Mechanical pump with primer lever. Before I found these, I felt bad chewing on the battery and starter every time it sat for more than a few days. You could crank it until it primed, it just ****ed. At least it always had oil pressure by the time it started. Mike
My usual method is gas priming down the carbs, but that also takes two three times, unless I really pour it down and risk flooding. This is nice since it fills the bowls and off it goes, no washing down the rings. My Bantam has no heater, no A/C, no radio.. It has wires for charging, starter, lights and a horn. I like that about it.
That picture is for a Ford 1172 Sidevalve from a 100E Anglia (Small Ford Spares has the best pictures !). The one I used was pretty much identical, also used a 1/4" spacer, and fit a '65 Triumph 1147 OHV (Herald, the hard starter). It may adapt to other Fords. I've heard of using the 100E distributor on Model A bangers. Between changing the arm and using creative spacers it probably can be adapted to most anything. Mike https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/products/e0a-9350-replacement-fuel-pump-with-primer-lever
I have had a squeeze bulb on my 39 chev for a couple of years, so far no problems (fingers crossed). It is fitted before the fuel pump. I ran the same set up on my 56 Olds for some time and again never had an issue with it.
Those primer bulbs are used all over diesel equipment. If your concerned about heat, melting etc why not a diesel primer pump ? Many different styles, can also come with a filter attachment. just another way to skin a cat, I like the idea.
^^^^Mount in toe board so you can activate with foot action. Or squeeze primer bulb under floor, activate with piece of wood or disguise as horn on A pillar?
I have been running one for years, on the 49 Hudson. I have not had any trouble at all with it. Mounted in the engine bay , down next to the frame.
My Ford tractor has one of those fuel pumps with a priming lever, use it after you change fuel filters.
Thanks for the endor*****t, Budget36! This trick was taught to me by my Dad back in the sixties and I have used it successfully since then to solve this problem. First you must understand that the fuel pump pumps via a spring and that it takes a little time for the fuel to get through the little needle and seat! Your engine only “ loads” that spring during the intake phase of the pump. So…. Just spin your engine a couple of revaluations and then set there for about 15 seconds while the spring on the pump pushes the fuel through the small port in the needle valve. Do this 2/3 times, pump the gas and your engine will bust off….most of the time! If you are one of those guys that has a cloud over you 24/7 and your engine stops every time in the position where the pump spring is depressed…. It won’t work. But I can’t help those guys…..LOL….. Try it ! It works! It’s free! Bones
The little diesel pump like Vandenplas showed isn't hard to find or expensive new. Diesel Fuel Primer Pump For Mazda Bravo Ranger Courier B2500 2.5L 2002-2006 - Mad Hornets for an example of what to look for. Amazon.com: Topteng New Diesel Fuel Primer Pump For Mazda Bravo Ranger Courier B2500 2.5L 2002-2006: Automotive
Nice, didn't know. But sounds like several guys are using the rubber ones without issue so I'll see how it goes. Yes, this does work. If you're not into installing a priming device it's the way to go.
I've gone though one of the squeeze bulbs on the outboard on my sailboat about every other year. I don't buy the cheap ones either usually getting the ones that cost over 30 bucks. I always have an inline filter between the tank and pump too.
I have never heard of these things but, now that I have, I'd be all over this style rather than the boat bulb.
Me too, although being advertised as diesel who knows if they are any more resistant to ethanol. Anyway this morning I switched my bulb over from the flathead to my SBC, which has been sitting for about two weeks, for a test. Fired up like it ran yesterday (you can see my previous primer hose on top of the air cleaner, coming out the cowl). Funny thing though, when I walked up the the flathead this morning I gave it a squeeze, no fuel (it's easy to tell). So apparently the flathead is draining the fuel back from the carb to somewhere down the line, overnight. I thought the fuel pump, located on the intake manifold, would prevent this. On to the SBC, also between pump and carb. It's easy to tell what's happening, first just air, then as it fills with fuel it gets harder to squeeze, then when the float bowl is full and the needle closes it won't squeeze. Pretty neat. I was poking around online again and noticed there are some that have aluminum ends, unlike the plastic ones mine has, and better looking clamps. Nothing about better rubber though. I'm going to stick my extra new one in a jar of ethanol for awhile and see..
Update: Went to fire up the SBC today. Gave the bulb a squeeze, didn't expand back out. I suspect something to do with having it between the pump and carb, not being able to pull through the pump.. I moved it to between the pump and tank (just above the pump) and it worked fine. Also kinda neat, once the float bowl is full and the bulb won't squeeze, by opening the throttle a couple times, the accelerator pump will prime the engine and the bulb will squeeze again. Fired up instantly and kept running with the full bowl.
The Jalopy Journal
