How long should it take a guy to bring a early 60 4dr tank down to metal. Should I be using an random orbital sander? Right know I am chemically stripping it and the sanding with 3M scotch pads on a drill. I'm making due with what I have right know. I need to buy the tools for the job. Let me know what tools to buy and how long it should really take a guy. PS I have no air.
it should take a long time that way. If you lay the stripper on thick, keep it wet, it might work better.
I've got 3 layers of paint too. I've trying to deside also if I'm going to spend more monry on striper and sanding discs than having it blasted. What would be the fasted way to strip it myself?
before I got a big compressor, I used paint stripper...it's a pain, but it gets the job done with not too much labor. Now I generally sandblast, but only because I have the equipment and a place to do it.
makita makes a 5" disk sander model gv5000 that works bitchin. they have them at home depot if you have them out there? there about 90 bucks. i usually put a 7" 36 grit disk on there and it takes the paint off pretty quick. just dont push to hard you can score the metal. when the disk edge gets kinda dull ill trim it down about a 1/4 in. and it work great again. i never liked stripper, some of that old paint is really stuck on good and you waste alot tryin to get it all off. if ou got some pennys saved sandblasting is the way to go though. my friend stripped half his caddy in a couple of hours wiht the makita and few disks
I read somewhere that you can lay plastic wrap over wet stripper (sounds like something from a movie), and it will keep the stripper active longer... basically getting more out of it.
I use an electric buffer, like a Makita or DeWalt (which is what I have) and a 3M stickit pad, and 36 grit. You can strip an entire car to bare metal in about 4 hours, maybe less. I did my Camaro like that, and it had the typical 4-5 layers of paint. It is a bit dusty though..then I DA with 80, and metal etch and epoxy, then do metal/mud work.
Thanks for the info guys. I spent all weekend stripping one rear fender. I was getting pissed. I should have got a Makita like sander for $90 bucks right off the bat. I've already spent $150 on striper, scrapers, sanding discs already. I should have asked first. As far as the comment about using a propane torch and razor blades, would'nt the heat warp the sheet metal?
This is all I got accomplished all weekend. Time for plan B. There is always a learning curve the first go around.
Think about it, are you gonna be in this for the long haul?..if so, save your money and buy a compressor and some air tools...and dont cheap out, do it right the first time. You will always use a compressor...how ya gonna primer this thing? Paint strippers obviously work as a chemical reaction with the paint, by putting plastic on top the caustic chemicals won`t evaporate and will work longer.
REREAD what I wrote! I said HEAT GUN! Same heat gun they use to strip paint off houses. Years ago I stripped the paint of a Rolls-Royce and left the original primer in tack. Works real easy.
Sorry, someone at one time said that to me and I misconstued your comment. It is still early here in MN and I have'nt been through my first gallon of coffee.
Unfortunetly I rent and I don't feel to secure about my tools in the garage. It is unattached and way back in the alley. Also air tools are bound to piss off the landlord. When I buy a house that will be the first thing in the garage. But for right know I'm having to make do.
When you get one blasted you commonly run into two problems. #1 the guy who is blasting leans to hard on it and warps panels etc. #2 it takes forever to get rid of the media used to blast it be it sand or whatever. When you're trying to paint it the nedia comes out of the cracks and crevices for ever, unless you completely dismantle it of course then on a '60s car you still have palces in the tub that retain the media. Chemical stripping works but you have to pickle it before you can paint it to do it right. your best bet is to get a comprssor and a DA. it'll make you have arms like Popeye but you'll get better results.
I'd use 80-grit sandpaper, changed often, with a D/A sander. An electric D/A can work fine. The technique of the operator is more important than whether it's an electric D/A or an air tool. There's an art to using a D/A. Always use a very light pressure, and always keep it moving. Skim along the high spots, and be sure you don't dig ruts. When you're done, the surface finish should be smooth and uniform. Wear a dust mask. Clean up the area with a broom and a vacuum, not an air gun. Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
Forgot to mention another tip: You want the mess you create to end up in the garbage, not in the whole building and in your lungs. Keep a clean, dry rag handy. As you work, use the rag to wipe off the area you're working on. This makes clean-up easier than if you use an air gun. Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
Hey, Let the paint stripper do the work and save all that sandpaper and grinding for a spot repair. Keep in mind that automotive finishes contain high levels of lead, that's why they lasted so long! The bad news is that all that lead dust will wind up in your lungs, kidneys, liver and blood stream, as well as your bones. Try not to grind thick layers of paint, let the stripper do the hard work. Keep new born babys, little kids and moma outta the shop when stripping paint. Swankey Devils C.C.
if it's an option, yes! just be prepared to get it in primer ASAP! just today i picked up one of the stripit discs like rodin28 posted above, i was skeptical till i tried it, it works great, blasts the old finish right off, and leave no residue like sanding may.
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