I understand the basics, but I would like to see a step by step process on repairing dented or creased stainless. Specifically the polishing portion. What compounds are more aggressive or finer etc. The steps you take to get that mirror finish. Any tricks or things a guy has learned through hard knocks. Also, I would be interested in how to finish off a piece that has to be shortened. I have heard old time customizers talking about folding the ends over and silver soldering the joints. I have never attempted it and i will need to in the distant future.
Buy a copy of this: https://www.amazon.com/Restore-Metal-Auto-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760303312 Eastwood, I'm sure others, sell polishing wheels and compounds for all types of metal and plastic. I have used a very small ball peen hammer to pound out creases in stainless. Then fine sandpaper and working to finer polish compounds.
Start off soft and gentle...use some scraps of aluminum to make special shaped tools...think they are called (corking tools) to aid in tight spaces that the hammer doesn’t fit in. Start with very fine wet sandpaper or polishing compound. If things are not progressing, or hardly progressing go slightly coarser. Repeat as necessary. If you start coarse, you might put some deep scratches that will take lots of work and time to remove. Use a scrap piece to test on! I would tig instead of silver solder.
I always have a few of these kits in my cupboard (rather than spark plug wires). They will take you down to a nearly perfect surface that doesnt need a lot of time on the buffer. As far as straightening, there was an excellent thread a while back that showed cutting a dado in a piece of hardwood to use to buck against and soft blow tools to hammer and pick the dents out. I have saved a lot of trim since reading that thread.
Be real careful polishing the headlight retainer rims. You’ll run one of those sharp little Jews up your arm to the shoulder.
Use your drill press and a shaped wood dowel to press out dings instead of hammering on them. One of those mini anvils is handy; but polish the surface and relieve the corners first; same goes for your dinging hammer; you don't want to add extra tool marks. Taping moldings to a piece of wood when buffing; saves damaging both the trim and yourself. The wood pieces can also be cut to the shape of curved trim. Shaped blocks are handy for light bezels. Careful not get the metal too thin by overly aggressive sanding. One of those steady handed wizards that can work magic with a tig is handy for gouges and shortening; use a piece of the same trim for filler to get the same color to the weld. Patience is one of the most important skills needed.
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