Technical Barn find 57 vette.

I don't think "project creep" is even in Brians' vocabulary!
By the way, how is the Chevelle coming along?

 

I was already planning new shackles and bushings. If it sits too low i will put some springs on it. I dont do things part way. If it needs fixing i will fix it.

 

The chevelle is going great. Alot of progress has been made. The 427 block might be ready to pick up at the end of the week. I might put the short block together next weekend. I have the new trunk and full floor pieces. Instead of doing drag week i will spend the time off putting the floor in. I hope to have the engine in the car running by thanksgiving. The body work will be done this winter. Hopefully the body will go back onto the frame in the spring.

 

This applied to that paint. Let it soak over night. Again & again. Your welcome.https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=541574313169664&ref=watch_permalink

 

Your transmission tunnel piece is backwards in this picture. The flaps go below and alongside the center glove box.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

This is a bit of a hack but I have stuck a golf tee into a hole, broken it off, then thread the screw into it.
I have only done this for elongated or beat up holes in metal, not fiberglass. Good luck

 

The most appropriate repair is to re-fiberglass the enlarged hole. Then drill a new properly sized hole. I have used as a temporary repair what I have possibly mistakenly called barrel nuts possibly also called tubular retainer nuts. See photo.

 

...and that crossmember the shackles mount to are notorious for rotting from the inside out...ask me how I know.

 

I have used plastic inserts like these for many years in stripped fiberglass holes. They are available
In most Autobody supply houses in many sizes.

 

There are several good suggestions to fix the stripped out holes. I have a few sill plate holes and all four holes that hold the plate around the shift handle. Nothing will show.
As far as the frame goes it looks nasty but its actually verr solid.

 

Todays fun involved flipping the shackles. Silly me thought i could just unbolt the shackles and somehow get the spring over the frame. That idea didnt work. In the high heat and humidity i kept going. The springs needed to be completely unbolted. With the car on the lift and a pair of screw jacks for support the job is mostly done. New shackles and bushings are on the way. I will switch them out when they arrive. The car looks much better. The rear of the car dropped several inches. It sits level. It was cool to see all the bolts were original. I cleaned them up and re installed them all but one that broke.
I found out the car was bought originally in northern Illinois. It raced at dragstrips in the area. That would explain the stance and old eelco fuel block.

 

That looks fantastic @racer-x...that will be a fun little ride...

 

@racer-x , is there any chance the car was sold by Doane Chevrolet in Dundee, IL? Doane had some connections in Detroit, maybe even with Duntov and they tuned and race prepped Corvettes.

 

I need to see if the straps fit while its on the ground. On the lift with the rear end supported they didnt.
I couldnt get the exact dealership. I can ask more question when i see him next.

 

Is this the original stance? The car looks higher in the front now. Should it be level? Or is it just how the body is shaped that it looks like that?

 

The straps fit with the full weight on the tires.

 

This is how mine sits without engine or trans.
Yours looks good

 

https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/chevrolet/corvette/1957/472613



https://www.mecum.com/lots/DA1018-332813/1957-chevrolet-corvette-convertible/?hcb=1



https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0119-359402/1957-chevrolet-corvette-convertible/

...Mecum...Originals I suspect...I guess it depends a bit on tire size...

Specs...

https://www.corvettemuseum.org/learn/about-corvette/corvette-specs/1957-corvette-specs/

​

 

The assembly manual should give you measurements to certain things from the floor.

 

I have the manual. I will take a look. It doesnt look too far off as is.

 

Looks level to me, you have to look at the bottom of the body, not the curved tops of the fenders and quarter panels.

 

Maybe some helpful specs here, starting around page 7 and again on page 35.

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...ion-kits/Corvette/1957-Chevrolet-Corvette.pdf'

 

Man you work FAST and GOOD. Looks 100% better already

 

Brian your efforts have paid off so far-looks so much better. I am sure you will make it even nicer. Once you start driving it I believe you will like the way it drives, keeping in mind when it was built.

 

Take a tooth pic and smear some JBWeld/epoxy/ect. around the sides of the enlarged holes. Let it dry real good...then install screws!

 

Looking better every time you touch it!