Yuppers, that one was already flipped once. Some of the gypo rebuilder shops actually do that rather than put a new one in. I've flipped a lot of them myself though. A search doesn't bring up replacement pieces.
Yup, what @Mr48chev said. a buddy of mine worked at a starter/alternator rebuild by factory as “semi skilled” labour. his job was to open up a dozen or so starters or alternators test them and then make up as many “rebuilds “ as possible by just mix and matching parts snd build up a few that way, then when all used good parts are done and accounted for then start putting in mew parts. he said some stuff was 100% used parts and others rebuilt with new stuff, but mostly minimal parts changing
Thanks guys. Well I promised the wife a drive while the top is off, so I was able to file the indexing rectangle into a square and rotate it 90 degrees. Starting every time, hopefully get a few more months of starts. I briefly saw some rebuild kits online, will look again.
Rotated 90 degrees. Like said above, with a file and you can get 4 sides instead of 2. Less contact but it can still carry the load.
It's been rotated 180 degrees once already. You simply unbolt it from the front side and rotate it 180 degrees and then re-tighten the nut.
Wow guys..... A new solenoid is $20.00 at Rock Auto. Why cheap out on something that will strand you somewhere?
It would click and engage the gears but not spin the starter. Shorting from the battery to the starter lug would start it. For pre-'57? Different animal. Anyway the lug and washer are the only wearing parts. Can always be started with a screwdriver across the lugs, or push started. I am going to replace both when I have the parts and summer is over.
You have two studs in a solenoid a motor stud and a battery stud . Then there is a contact disc that needs to be changed if you want to repairthis solenoid . Do your self a favor and buy a new solenoid .
When I was young and penniless I used to build them up with brazing rod, and then smooth the weld out on my belt sander. Works great.
Funny, the battery stud on mine was near perfect, only the starter side lug was bad, maybe that's the way they go. The washer was fine, just a quick cleanup. I'm guessing that with the 90 degree rotated lug, missing some of the contact area, it may only last a few years..
If you are set on repairing the solenoid, that repair kit would be a good way to go . That gets you a new cap along with the contact disc . Over the years in my shop I replaced many caps along with the contact and studs. At times it can be better to replace it with new . I like the one with 130 windings as opposed to 100 . Another thing that I like to use is a short solenoid spring. They come with the solenoids that I buy from my supplier.
Like A vehicle pretty much after points, & most peoples daily drivers.. I myself have done the copper penny more than once. These are the things you Do/did when you lived Outside the suburbs and cities. Sometimes a 20 minute fix , then waiting a few days plus shipping . Rock auto is good on Price, as long as you do a order big enough. As far as I know R-A is not a warehouse, Parts come from Vendors and businesses with parts on shelf .
This is my first experience with the pre-1957 style starter. It does not use the large spring over the solenoid piston like the later ones. I don't remember how the return spring works, maybe it's this one, and it's back in the car and working now, but I do remember it takes a lot of force to move the gear out by hand, more than I remember the later ones taking. At first I thought that may have been the problem, the solenoid not having the power to pull the copper washer all the way to the lugs, but not the case. I'm still surprised it has that much power. Also, as shown in this photo (not mine), where the piston bolts to the linkage it's an adjustment slot, not just a hole. Didn't notice until I had it apart (to replace the rubber boot) so I just put it back where it was, as best I could tell.
The Jalopy Journal
