Projects They call me Panelman.....1956 Chevy Panel Truck

I understand the paranoia, mine is garaged and I have a newer car blocking it. You have three on the tree, that is a theft deterrent now adays. Last time I took mine for an inspection I had to drive it up on the lift. Between the parking brake and the stick the guy just threw his hands up.

 

Where did you find them? I used to buy from Mid-Fifties or C&G down South but now I found The Truck Shop in Orange has everything and no postage…

 

Now that's funny. I knew the column shift was a hurdle, but the parking brake too ?!?!?!

Sorry Mike I should have been more clear, I just re read my post.
It's me , I got them used off OfferUp. It's the whole package, complete side window (gl***, trim, track) in chrome trim, complete vents. One side gl*** and 1 vent gl*** is cracked, came with extra newish side gl*** and other parts. Selling other parts, going to install these parts while my stock stuff is out, new rubber, felt and paint for mine and then back in with the old oem gl***. Then sell the used chrome stuff off.

 

The Truck Stop...Man, I've spent a lot of money there but love that place.

 

At last if they tow it off the steering wheel wont turn as they haul it away!

 

That's the catch, I live on a curve and my girls car is behind it. So no flatbed will fit behind it or in front of it, I have to crank the wheel to get out past the neighbors car.

 

The guy I bought it from sent me a text, looks like a friend of his saw me driving home in the rain.

 

Weird to have a hard time getting normal parts. Went to replace the u joints, found out the trans yoke is worn out and some ****er parts are on serious back order. I found a used yoke and I'm back on the road......paranoia starting to kick in and I feel the need to collect some spare parts for all the cars.

 

Wax is only lasting about 3 months (in summer sun), then the chalk returns...........I'm going to rub through this paint in a few years .

 

Haven't seen this thread in a while, have you wet sanded and then applied wax? I've had good results with a wet sand, compound, polish and then wax.

 

Wet sanding (and polish) was done before I bought it, I also tried it on a panel facing the daytime sun. It lasted a little longer but not enough to make it worth doing the whole truck . Maybe I'll try wet sanding the whole truck in the winter.

Right now I'm trying different waxes and sealers.

 

Now it's starting to cool off, I think it's going to be shocks, steering box rebuild and drag link upgrade. Then in the dead of winter I think I'll tackle the side gl*** seals. I'll most likely take in the window frames for powder coating, but use the old gl***. My time in the next few months is going to be super tight as I'm helping my mom out, so I made the decision to work on the panel over winter instead of the '28. More to follow.........

 

Starting to get some time back, still helping my mom but it's coming to an end. I did some quick measurements and found that a ford trans mount is real close.

Here's the motor mount that's in there now:



Here's the Ford trans mount:


Lets see if I can make it fit. Also doing more radio stuff.

 

Had a little time today and put this in.........**WARNING** more new radio stuff . I wanted it a little louder when I'm on the freeway, so I found a mini amp that was small and powerful. With hardly any room left under the dash I decided to put it in the open area of the column/dash brace so it can still be hidden. Made some brackets out of s**** aluminum and had some screws laying around. It's a small victory, but I'll take it.

That's it for the radio now and onto the front mount tomorrow.

Still had to zip tie some wires in this pic.

 

Ok, not 100 % done yet but here's what I have so far. I kinda feel dumb for putting such worthless stuff on here, with all the full hot rod and custom builds going on. Well, here's my (below) average guy post nonsense.

Here's the 2 mounts and the differences (so close). I think the 5/16-3/8 higher new mount won't hurt, but I'll check the trans angle after it's in and I can adjust it at the bellhousing if needed.


Here's my solution, I slotted the holes on the engine mount as much as I could while slightly lifting the motor. It was setup for 5/16 bolts, so I made bushings from the bolts (7/16) that the mount came with. The knowledge I have on machining can fit in a thimble, but I have to start somewhere .


I used loc***e and let it set up, cut off the heads and made plates to go on the underside of the crossmember.


Now I have to wait to see if it all works together and fits. All this because it has a '54 motor with no side mount holes in a TF with no center crossmember holes (until someone put some in).

 

It fit and it's in. It only changed the angle .4, so I'm fine. On to cleaning an lubing the grease can on the distributor and shift box.

***Update***
I didn't want the post going back up to the first page for something this dumb.
Ok, the shift box is clean inside and packed full of cornhead grease. The distributor can is full of ch***is grease, no pictures since there was nothing exciting to see. Going to test drive tonight......

***Update to the update with extra***
160 mile trip and all is well. No more slight clunk feel when I take off briskly (or uphill) and no more super bang every once in awhile (felt like the engine was dropped onto the frame from a couple inches up when I took off briskly). The old mount mount bolts were tight, it had 2 bolts through it that bolted the engine to the crossmember that were tight. I checked everything else it could have been (suspension, frame, steering) and was left with the mount. I mainly replaced it because it was oil soaked.

This was my only indication that the front mount could be the problem. The gap left by the oily road grime told me something must be moving.

 

Keep after it, even the small stuff. Usually that's what makes the biggest difference, details.

Devin

 

Great Looking 56 Panel.
I enjoyed reading about all your new improvements and your many homemade part's.
She's going to be around for many year's to come, plus bring you many Smiles and Thumbs Up...
Thanks for sharing your build. Thank you for your word's of encouragement my friend.

1NIMROD....

 

Had to add this. I can't stress enough how good Meguiars #7 works with good and dead single stage paint. I had to wax the Panel again and you can see the line in the paint and this is after compound/polish. #7 is on the right of the panel, it looks like someone poured a clear oil all over the truck.....just deeep and shiny.

Hope you can see the line to the right of the tree reflection in the pic (way better in person).

 

# 7 cant be beat.

 

Shiny......


The flat headlight gl*** isn't as noticeable as I thought, but A LOT better light at night AND last way longer.


Thanks @Blues4U for the pictures.

 

Let’s see, you’ve got a three speed, so you’ll need at least three deuces, a pair of Cherry Bombs ( he he) and a good excuse to rap the throttle at 5:00am.

 

BTW, if anyone wants these style headlights they're mysteriously cheap at some online car dealers. I used the part number (called the dealer also with the part number and they couldn't tell me what it was other then headlight ***embly), I ordered one and it was the kit...........so I ordered more.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sealed-beam-headlights.1324784/

 

Time to wax it up again.....

 

Pertronix unit had some issues, not sure how long it's been in there as I bought it that way. The new harness doesn't have a resistance wire or resistor inline and I didn't want to add one. Back to eBay, found a few coils (NOS and NORS) that are internally resisted. Also found some NOS/NORS points, condensers, cap and rotors. I had a post about the distributor insulator, ended up buying one as it was the "keyed" version. Armed with the new coil (GM made in Japan), the insulator and other parts, the distributor came out. Put everything in it, dropped it back in and fired it up. Got to use my Milton dwell gauge.

Nice older kits by Niehoff:



Milton 1214: