Hello from the Netherlands, I just convert my 38 Ford pu to 12 volts. Starts and runs good, but did not charge... First idea was to convert the original generator to 12 volts, i ordered field coils and a regulator from C&G Ford The Items i ordered: B6A-10175-B Generator Field Coils C3TZ-10505-B Voltage Regulator When the parts arrived i open up the generator and see that the coils are too big, they did not fit in the case. I have a problem... Luckily i had just bought a 8Ba engine for parts with a generator. So i convert this generator to 12 volts. When i assembled everything i have tested the generator as a motor and it turns around in the right direction. Mounted the generator in the car and connected the wirings as described in the manual that comes with the regulator But its not working, i open up the voltage regulator and there is nothing happen, i dont seen the relays working. What did i wrong ? I think the generator is good, it is working like a motor so it must be OK. Can anyone tell me whats going on here ?
@arj I had a local guy convert.my 6volt generator to 12 volts. The first thing he said was " this is still a generator, it does not work like an alternator. It only charges the battery when rpms are up" Also, the generator and voltage regulator need to be 'synced' so they work together. I'm unsure how this is done but I wired up mine and it works well. Good luck
Did you polarize the system? All wires hooked-up according to the info and then you flash the field wire on the regulator by removing it and touching the B+ on the regulator just so it sparks then reattach it to field terminal. Also the regulator must be grounded properly. Final question: when you converted to 12v did you also change to NEG. ground? This may create other problems if you did.
I think you need a pre 62 regular to work with those field coils Your reg part number is 63 I had the same issue As the Boss said did you polarize the reg?
Just what's been said; polarize the generator, make sure the generator case and regulator base are grounded to each other, and the year of the regulator shouldn't make any difference.
He says the generator will motor with 12 volts applied (I think that's what he meant anyway) if so, this accomplishes the same thing as polarization. As a practical matter a 6 volt generator will work perfectly fine for light duty with a 12 volt regulator. It will not achieve its rated current output, but apparently this was a common practice "back in the day".
Thank you all for your reply. The generator is converted to 12 volts, even as the rest of the car, i have negative ground. When i motor the generator it turns in the same direction as it turns when i bolt the generator on the engine. I follow the instructions and attached the field wire for a second or so to the B+wire. Gives a little spark.
Today i work again on the generator and i found out that when i let the engine rev up to max rpm the voltage regulator did his job, see some relais clicking and it charges. But, only at full throttle. Looks not good. I still have the old 6 volt generator, are there 12 volt coils available for the smaller 36-38 generators ? (shaft size is 15mm, the later ones have 22 mm shafts)
Sounds like a bad armature….any auto electric shops in your area? If there is…take both the generators and the regulator to them for testing…be sure to tell them that you changed from Positive ground to Negative ground and 12v. Some generators that have run for a long time on Positive ground can be stubborn about changing polarity.
It is difficult to find quality generator voltage regulators, C3TZ-10505-B are usually modern manufacture reproductions and I have not heard good things about them in general. There are some tests you can make with the generator itself, disconnected with engine running, to isolate if the problem is likely the regulator, or the generator. Also ground or "earth" defects. See if the charging situation improves after additional grounds are added by bonding generator case to regulator case & battery ground with heavy jumper wires. It is important that all three points are at the same ground potential. A shop manual or .PDF scan would be helpful if you can download. Another basic test is Generator Output. Disconnect the ARM and FLD wires at the generator. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals. Start the engine, need an ammeter capable of measuring 0 to 50 amperes, it should output 30 amperes connected between jumper and battery. Only perform this test long enough to make a measurement. Sometimes a generator can motor on the testing bench when connected to a battery, but still have problems. It should run fast and smooth, and not "lumpy"?
The Jalopy Journal
