Getting deeper into my 32 Ford roadster (Brookville original style body). I have no problem making door panels and kick panels, but need some guidance on closing off the area behind the seat (which leads to the trunk) - how is this typically done? I had considered bending a "rear firewall" out of aluminum or something. Thanks, Scott
I have a 31 Brookville body and built a frame with a steel bulk head for behind the seat to close of the trunk area as the gas tank sits right behind the seat in the trunk. Its a good idea to have one.
On my Brookville I made a solid sheet metal panel that went from door post to door post in three pieces. I glued it in w body glue and pop rivets. Went floor to top edge. Really strengthened body and sealed off trunk from p***enger compartment. Coated it all w lizard skin.
It’s pretty easy to build a frame and put aluminum on it or steel. My gas tank is in the trunk of the A I’m building so I’m going to build a frame around it and a bulkhead also.
I made a roll bar for my roadster and it’s a 6 point and can’t been seen unless you open the trunk. It gives me a point to mount the seatbelts . It also add a little strength to the body with that powerful flathead and unboxed frame.
All good ideas, thanks... For the guys that went door-to-door, did you curve it around? Did you taper it in any at the bottom or is it straight/plumb from top to bottom?
Couple of pictures I found of how I did it. It did taper forward some at the bottom. The two ribs are where I connected the side pieces to the center part. I put a piece of sheet metal angle on the floor to attache the vertical part to. Don,t remember what gauge I used. Probably 16.
That looks very clean for a DIY job... How did you get the gradual bends in the corner? In my experience, 16 gauge does not like to hand bend.
I made cardboard patterns first. I then used a hand box brake at work to make the radius. The radius is smaller on the bottom than the top. While making the cardboard I made a radius gauge also of the top and bottom to use to help when bending the sheet metal. Took a couple of tries to get right. A friend did a similiar job and bent his around an oxygen bottle. He may have used a lighter gauge.
Mine... The sheet metal attaches to the framework with ****on head screws so it can be easily removed if necessary. Hope this helps.
Thanks... I was thinking that 16 gauge would be pretty difficult to bend by hand. When I ordered the body, I noticed that this rear firewall was one of the options that you could have for extra money... It seemed very abstract at the time, but now in hindsight I wish I'd had them do it. Seems like it would be more doable with aluminum on a steel frame - what do you think about that option?
Aluminum on a steel frame would work, even all aluminum as I glued mine in. My goal was to completely seal the trunk area from the p***enger compartment. It's amazing how much heat comes up from the trunk floor. Also wanted to strengthen the body.
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