Yep, full spool you can drive, have to change the way you drive. Only thing I'd run a minispool on would be an entry cl*** dirt track car where the tires can spin.
As had been mentioned, it can certainly be done. A buddy had one in a slightly OT Mustang. It caused all sorts of issues with suspension. Broken U-bolts, twisted (stock) axels... As an example, if you were to turn into a parking spot, the car would sit crooked because the spool wouldn't let the suspension unload. Funny note, you could bounce the rear of the car and watch and hear the the inside tire as the axel would unwind. Even when we were younger hooligan types, it got old. And yes, it would do stupid things on wet roads, even when we weren't trying to.
Have you ever tried pushing a car around a corner with spool? That'll put some muscles on you, not to mention all the new swear words you'll come up with. Spools have no business on a street car, none.
Neither do Ladder bars, raised straight axle front ends, supercharged big blocks, big'n'littles, or any other mod that affects smog or crash safety [but that would be no fun ,wouldn't it? ]
Dang you guys sure get stirred up when someone digs up a thread that had been dead for 12 years because he was bored and answered it without checking to see how old the last post before his would be. Answer is still the same as it was in 2005, a spool isn't any fun going around corners in a street car.
Yes, but is a Tru-Trac HAMB friendly? For my ‘62 Holden project, I wanted a locking centre they was. From my research (and I could be wrong): a) The Detroit Locker came out in the early 40’s. It was originally used on American military vehicles during World War II, then post-war on light and medium trucks. b) Posi-traction (plate and clutch, similar to the early Holden LSDs) came out in the early 50’s, initially for GM half-ton trucks. c) The Truetrac (currently made be Eaton and sold locally by Harrop) came out in the 80's, initially for light trucks. Cheers, Harv
Is there even a point to asking this question? If the desire is for useful, well-behaved traction on the street, period-correctness cannot play a role. Chirping tires in corners, forced unintended lane changes when getting on and off the throttle, gear oil filled with clutch debris, additives, and constant maintenance are all traditional. Not interested.
@Harv How would anyone know which differential you've chosen? It's not one of those visible items like F/I or billet pieces under the hood. You would still have all the benefits, but without the short comings of a spool or Detroit Locker. Granted, there is something to be said for the visceral experience of driving an old hot rod.
I guess it depends a bit on the frame of reference for a build. Some take era-correctness to an extreme, others are more open to modern materials. For my project, I want to build a vehicle that is close to 60's era correct, and regularly lean heavily on it at the drag strip. There is a lot of legend ***ociated with early Holdens (the Canadian block myth, the M***ey Ferguson balancer story, the Vauxhall crank legend, the 12 second grey motor etc). A lot of the people who know the truth about the stories are sadly p***ing away. I'm aiming to test some of the stories - race it, break it, fix it, and share why/how. For the differential side, legend has it that the co**** spline GMH banjo is unreliable, and cannot be beefed up. The plate-and-spring LSD is also reknowned as unreliable. If thats the case, I'll end up busting mine... though there are plenty still racing them. My local diff rebuilder is an ex-speedway racer from the era, who gets a big grin every time I take the car into his shop. Suspect he will help overcome the myth, or resolve the issues. Cheers, Harv
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