Hand fuel pumps - can anyone tell me why?

I drove this roadster with a pressurized tank as my only car in 1962-3. (This picture shows it with Enderles in 1966.) It ran with six 97s, four 97s and six 97s with a cross ram. The 10-gallon tank was in the trunk and the fuel level determined how often you had to pump the dash-mounted pump. There was a fuel pressure gauge in the Auburn dash. If the tank was full, you only a little bit of air in it and had to just give the pump a couple of hits. If it was low, you had to stroke it a bunch of times but it retained the pressure longer. Believe it or not, it was a reliable set-up.

{The picture is from 1966 at Riverside where I beat (just barely) my own 442. The Olds was driven by my old drag race partner, Jim Mackey, who was a much better drag racer than I ever was.}

 

Maybe a little off topic, but has anyone replaced the plunger seal gasket (for lack of a better word to describe it)? I have an Eelco one that I'd like to replace. I understand that they were all leather, not rubber? Here is a pic of the old seal, which I promptly lost when I had it apart years ago. Am I safe to assume that I could just find a piece of thick leather I cut a circle out of it that's a bit bigger than the metal washers that hold it in place? The washer towards the end of the rod has a slightly smaller diameter than the other one. Any tips?

 

Look in McMaster-Carr under piston cups

 

Restoration supply sells them https://restorationstuff.com/shop/#fb0=23

 

Thanks, guys. Only here can you get an answer of something so obscure, in a few minutes.

 

I use mine all the time. Works great and it's super cool.

 

The pump on your car, what size tank and engine have you got. I'm trying to figure out if I could use a hand pump on it's own to keep alcohol/methanol at about 3psi to a flathead v8 or if I really need to sort out a mechanical or electric fuel pump?

 

I was looking for a source for the leather piston cup and found it in this thread. Thought I would share something I made. I have two switches, one electrical for a fuel pump and a Clippard pneumatic switch for venting the fuel tank. They are located to my left near the hand pump. When using the manual pump the fuel will pass through the electric pump (when off) since it's a simple diaphragm with a check valve. When the electric pump is on, the pneumatic switch vents to the atmosphere. That also gives a way to quickly vent when using the hand pump. Frankly I doubt I will remember that if I wreck or I see fire. I use the hand pump unless I'm lazy or letting someone drive it who is distracted enough with the shifter between their legs and the external hand brake.

 

The leather cup is nothing more than a large version of a carb accelerator pump cup. Can make it yourself, but I'm fairly sure the cup needs to be oiled. Neetsfoot might be a good start, gut iirc, it gets sticky. Or other light oil. Like a bicycle pump, a drop or two every so often will do. Esp if it doesn't slide easily.
Marcus...

 

The next time your spouse asked you to oil her Singer sewing machine, hide the can of oil in your toolbox after you finish. The Singer oil works great on leather.

Really a good idea to oil leather accelerator pumps when rebuilding a carburetor.

Jon

 

Thanks Jon. Singer oil on order (Amazon, go figure) and arrives tomorrow.

 

Jon, iirc, 3-in-1 oil is the same. Sewing machine oil, at least the Bernia stuff, might be a bit more refined, but not much. Bernia dealer/repairman/h.s. classmate, said 3-in-1 was a good substitute. But, yes, you need & want a *very* light good quality oil.
Marcus...

 

3 n 1 also works fine. As my Wife loves to sew, as did my Mother; we have always had sewing machine oil available around the house. Gun oil will also work (Dad was a hunter).

When still restoring customer carbs, would always oil the accelerator pump. The reason being that everyone has to "work the throttle" on a carburetor BEFORE installing. Once installed, gasoline will lubricate the pump. Working the throttle dry several times can do several years worth of "normal wear" to the leather pump.

Jon

 

Yup, & oiled, the leather will stay supple for a whole lot longer, too.
Marcus...

 

Mineral oil, available in drug stores. Highly refined. And you can use it for oiling cutting boards to keep SWMBO happy. And even use it for what they market it for... just saying

 

I am using one on my T roadster with chev 4 banger (see link below). Works perfectly fine. Not sure about a V8 but it is more about size of tank and air / petrol ratio within the tank. I like the interactive component - enhances the driving experience for some, no doubt a burden to others.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/me-to-a-t.859578/page-7#post-15113899

 

Sorry Link wasn't clear. I am running a pressure gauge to keep at about 3 psi. Only need to pump periodically, once when starting up and maybe once again on a run but haven't done many long runs as yet.

 

The 100-year old pump that I have helps the beer get all the way up to the tap when enough beer has been served so that the remaining beer can't self-pressurize enough to make it by itself.
It's the same 100-year old science as with fuel tanks but this may be a more familiar way to understand the science.

 

Hahahhaha...
True...
Marcus...

 

I made a pressure pump - non functional - for my champ car because I like the authentic look.

 

I purchased leather stock in Texas. Was told the Hyde from South America was a better grade and the hydes were nearly flawless. Got this stuff from a craft store. I shaped my new cup using freeze out plugs on top and below ( larger plug on top leather then smaller cup on the bottom. Oiled the leather well before hand then pressed the assembly.. Made a nice cup shape. Got this tip from an old roundy round sprint car driver.