Bringing an F100 Back from the Dead

Nice work you're doing on the truck. I'll be watching.
Welcome to the HAMB!

 

INSPIRATION:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/60-f100-daily-driver-project.1168506/

 

Nice truck, and some great fab and ideas on it.

 

Thanks for that link treb!
I read it front to back this morning. A bunch of great idears in that thread!

I continued on with interior paint this morning way before the sun came up. I painted the bottom of the dash below the trim line with a nice deep maroon that goes well with the wimbledon white.
But, I screwed the pooch when my paint gun started giving me fits. I shoulda walked away and fixed it, but instead tried to compensate and got a big-ass run for my trouble.
Serves me right for trying to rush it.
So, wait, sand flat, begin again. It's just a bit of work. Nobody died.
But, I LOVE the color combo!
I'll put photos up when I'm worthy. Right now, I'm not worthy

 

I managed to get quite a bit done this past weekend. The interior paint is done! I decided to "Two-Tone" the dash, just so it wouldn't be all white inside. The second color is maroon, and my steel smoothie wheels will be that color too.

And with that, I needed to turn my attention to stuff that needs to go into the cab so that wiring can commence.
First up is the pedal cluster. The pot metal bushings were all wallowed out. I had read a post on the ford trucks forum about someone who had done a ball bearing conversion based on a kit from "Mustang Steve". The kit replaces the pot metal bushings with sealed ball bearings. Sounded like a solid idear! And I'm not above stealing good idears fair and square.
So, being a cheap******** with a b!tchin' set of tools, rather than buy the kit, I am making it myself to fit this particular pedal cluster.
First, hack out the old bushings. Grind off the peened over tabs and they pop right out. Next, brake pedal bushings. I know I coulda bought stock style plastic bushing for next to nuthin'. But then I'd have to wait.
I won't wait as long as I have bronze oil-lite bushing material in stock! So, I turned a set of bushings on the lathe, and pressed 'em in. And what d'ya know! The clutch pedal shaft slides right in!
I have the ball bearing retainers cut already from material I had in stock as well, but I had to buy the bearings to fit them up and get 'em welded to the pedal bracket. The bearings should be here soon. Since they came in a pack of four bearings, I will also use one of 'em for the clutch linkage bellcrank I'm making (stay tuned for that) that uses the stock pull rod in the stock location, using most of the stock frame bracket to mount the bellcrank, and putting the hydraulic master cylinder on the frame rail under the cab. It'll be a remote reservoir, and the reservoir will mount up on the firewall. This will operate a hydraulic throwout bearing inside the bellhousing, which does away with the stock throwout bearing arm. Hopefully, this will make the clutch pedal effort easy and smooth. I built the hydraulic linkage system in my drag race VW, and it is incredibly smooth. It's really all about getting the linkage geometry right.
More on that later.

 

The ball bearings I was waiting for to finish up the fab work on the pedal cluster arrived. So I set the bearing retainers up and TIG welded 'em on.
So, with that stuff complete, I can squirt some primer on and paint everything, and get it all****embled and into the truck.

Next up, finishing the steering wheel, and getting that and the column painted, and get that in the truck too.
And then I get to start on wiring! Yay!

 

I like that you put bearings in the pedals.... Great idea

 

Thanks. Not my idea. The idea was stolen fair and square!
I will say that after the trial fit of everything, it was very smooth and friction free.
The pull rod bellcrank that will actuate the hydraulic master cylinder will also be on a bearing like that and the pullrod itself will have spherical rod ends, rather than the end of the rod bent over and shoved into a hole.
I want the clutch effort to be light enough for my wife to drive it.

 

You may want to rig up some kind of support for the front of that engine. More than one of these has broken at the bellhousing. The more stuff you bolt on front, the more leverage against the bell area. Just be aware, and be real careful not to jar it moving it around the shop.

 

^^^What he said. Scary was watching my son working on our truck's 235 I6 on the engine stand! Couldn't wait to get that thing off the stand and back in the truck. Was always a "joy" when I had to move it in the shop. And forget about spinning it over!!

Great build thread so far. Welcome to the HAMB. I like the, "I can build that" attitude.
Andy

 

Someone else mentioned that too. Yeah, it was getting a bit bouncy!
Not long after that photo I had moved to a wheeled dolly so I could get the flywheel, clutch and bellhousing on. So now it's sitting close to the ground, supported at four corners at the motor mounts and just in front of the bellhousing area.
It's almost ready to back into the chassis!
Thanks guys fer lookin' out!

At any rate, I got the pedal cluster parts squirted with epoxy primer last night, and black enamel this morning. Tonight I'll get photos of how the whole shootin' match goes back together.

 

Just catching this......cool build Love the '65 styleside and the engine build. I like the 240 head swap. Was replacing a 240 w/300 many years ago. Dropped the 240 head off @ speed shop for valve job while I was getting the bottom end together to throw into early Econoline. Went to check on it and the shop had closed, my head nicked by a circle track racer Keep up the good work, Sir!

Joe

 

Here's some thoughts and things I did on a 300 six. Here's a solution if you decide on a Offenhouser intake in the future. The iron manifolds were pretty tough but if you notice, Ford uses a special washer on the manifold bolts to make up for the slightly uneven flanges of the log manifold. Sometimes standard washers will break the flanges off of the Offenhouser intakes.
It seems that Offys, Stock Logs and EFIs Sometimes Crack and break at the flanges. Why? Secondly EFI manifolds have some extra mounting holes. EFI heads had reinforced bosses so these extra bolts help align this multiple piece design. Carb heads do not have this. The stock intake and exhaust log is one piece. Using EFI manifolds means this one piece****embly is now a three piece. It's four pieces if you count the gasket! Three pieces that may not fit together along with a gasket. Studs are a must have. There is no way you can juggle these three pieces and a gasket using bolts. Being in chassis makes this so much more difficult. I may have to pull this engine after all and do all this on a stand.

Above I asked why the tabs break off of these on occasion. The photo below shows a Ford factory manifold bolt and my solution.

I should have picked a better stock bolt for this photo.
Anyway..... The factory bolt uses two special washers with a radius on each. A thin one and a thick one. Simply put this radius in the special washers allows two slightly uneven surfaces like the intake and exhaust pieces to clamp together. A standard flat washer may break off one tab when torqued.
Since I'm using studs I decided to use special nuts and washers. The nut has a convex base. The washer has a convex top this should allow even clamping within a .027 correction.



The next issue is manifold heat. The stock and even aftermarket intake manifolds received exhaust manifold heat from the bottom.
This may not be an issue for a race engine but it may be for a street engine.
Here's some solution ideas...

Australian solution....Claims it epoxies on.

You can see the concept.

Notice how the EFI exhaust manifold it right their where the heat riser was. In a warmer climate this may provide enough heat once the engine warms up. If a there is a rich condition that cannot be adjusted out...maybe a heat shield or more correctly, a sheet metal heat trap may capture enough manifold heat here?
Another possible solution is a water heated carburetor spacer like is seen on 60s Ford 2100 and 4100 carburetors.
Personally, I was just going to run it as is and cross that bridge if there was a problem.

Carburetion....
These engines were grossly Under Carbureted! This became apparent when they went to EFI (1988?). The EFI 6s out performed the 5.0s and had to be "de tuned".
CFM formulas are for V8s not sixes. Also they're for 4bbls, not 2bbls and definitely not 1 bbls. So there's a wandering zero with figuring the right carburetor for a 300 6.
One solution I agree with....
When calculating CFM....Figure the engine as a 400 CID engine, (this is going by cylinder size, adding two more cylinders gives you 400 CID) not a 300 CID engine.
So....
400 CID...
4500RPM
447CFM ish
So a 500 CFM carburetor would be right on the money. A old "1850" Holley 600 cfm is not out of the equation then especially if you had a 600 Holley or Edelbrock laying around. Think about this, nobody really questions a 600 on a 302.
Carb Choices with Offenhouser C series...
1. 500 CFM Autolite(if you have the cash) or Summit 4100 clone or equivalent Holley...
1. again Bigger Autolite/ 2100 2bbl or Holley 2300 500 cfm 2bbl. 2-4bbl adapter required
2. 600 cfm Edelbrock or Holley 4bbl
Carb choices with cast iron log...
1. Carter 1bbl (must be used with vacuum and mechanical advance distributor or later Duraspark)
2. Autolite/Motorcraft 1100 (can be used with 240 Loadamatic distributor)
3. Autolite 2100/Holley 2300 via 2bbl to 1bbl adapter.
4. A new option that really sounds promising!!! The genuine Stromberg Big Stromberg 97 (450cfm)....made by Stromberg. Do not confuse it with the Chinese 9 Super 7 by Speedway. Get the real Stromberg if you try this route.....There should be 1bbl to 3 bolt 2bbl adapters available. You may have to modify it and you will have to modify the base for the big 97 Stromberg's throttle plates.
I was going to use a Edelbrock 600 on the C series Offy as I had one on the shelf.

Distributors....
If you change from a stock carburetor, make sure you use a 300 vacuum/mechanical advance unit ot later Duraspark/electronic units and NOT the 240 Loadomatic unit. The 240 LOM unit will only work with the factory carburetor with the spark valve. These were marched pairs on the 240.

Gears...
These engines need gears. Think about this...these are low RPM engines that operate best at the higher end of their RPM band. Remember the screaming UPS trucks? The UPS drivers ran these wide open!
A tall highway gear kills these and it kills fuel mileage as it has to lug around below it's power range.
A tall gear and overdrive??? then you really have*****ity*****....
These days people seem be obsessed with running a vintage engine 70MPH at idle speed. These old engines like to rev and like to operate in their power range.
They can be a dog if geared too high. Consider...3.90, 3.73, 3.55...no higher than 3.25. Personally I like 3.73 and 3.55 with a straight through transmission.

Good luck on you truck...these are some things to chew on...
The head of my 300 is still on the bench where it's been for two years....too many projects...not enough time.

 

Those are all excellent tips F-One! Thanks fer putting those up!
I put studs in the head at the get-go. Still, a bit of a juggle to get everything on. At least the intake had roll pin locators.
I am using the stock log intake with the new Holley Sniper 1100. This thing will probably never see north of 4000 rpm. I just don't push my street driven stuff that hard. The goal here is not all out performance. It is reliability and fuel mileage.
My initial plan was an Offy intake and an Autolite 2100. But Offy and Clifford intakes seem to be on permanent back order, used ones NEVER come up for sale, and the new price for the Offy manifold recently took a YUGE price jump. That actually makes the Holley Sniper 1100 the lower cost option! That's all I gots to say about that, as further discussion may put me in trouble with the law.
Rear gearing is 3.54, and I'm using a T5 trans, along with tires that are 29" tall. This should put 70mph rpm right at peak torque in 5th gear. If it seems it needs more gear, then I'll most likely do a complete rear end swap. That's how much I hate doing a ring and pinion change on a Dana 60! Lots of later model rear end options that will get me rear disc brakes too!
As for manifold heat, I've seen the water plates, and I'm gonna take a "wait and see" approach on that. It just doesn't get that cold here in Central California. The intake will probably see radiant heat from the exhaust manifolds before it sees any heat from the cooling system. Again, wait and see. I'd be more inclined to rig up some sort of heated air into the throttle body intake if anything.

 

Lookin' good! Subscribed!

 

Well, we had ourselfs a little set-back today. I had ordered up a Howe Hydraulic throwout bearing for my Tremec T5. The one that was shipped was NOT for a T5. So, I sent it back. Five days later, I call to find what's up, and they are getting ready to ship the one that fits a T5.
But wait! After just a bit of checking, I found out that throwout bearing only fits a GM T5. Damn. I thought a T5 was a T5. Seems the input bearing retainer sleeve diameter on a GM T5 is smaller.
So, I call back....STOP THE PRESSES. NEWS FLASH!!! Cancelled the order just as it was being packaged to ship.
I did find one that did fit. Aaaannnddd it figures. It's more than double the money.
Dang, dang, triple dang.

 

I would like to add a few follow-up comments.

The stock factory intake washers are actually cupped on the bottom and act as a stiff Bellville washer, insofar as they maintain clamping force during heat cycling expansion and contraction. If you use something else check it periodically to be sure it stays tight.

Cruising my hot rods in Michigan summertime, May through October - akin to CA temps - I do not need additional manifold heat on my aluminum aftermarket intakes.

I add retainer clips to the underside of the EFI exhausts. Just a little edge to trap the lower side of the exhaust manifolds, so they don't "creep downward".

Best fuel economy usually occurs when the engine turns slowly with a high intake manifold pressure (i.e., near WOT) That is where pumping losses are the least. You can debate how fun to drive it is like that, but that is why the auto mfgrs gear them like that. CAFE

 

The manifold retainer is a good idear. I'll whip something up for that. I did put my thick washers on concave side against the manifolds. That's the way they came off and seems to make the most sense, given the arrangement. Seems they'd be "grippier" that way. Now if there were a dished area on the manifold flanges for the washers to fit into convex side in, it would be different.
On my 2012 Ram with the 5.7 hemi, I drive for best economy regardless of speed limit. 68mph seems to be the sweet spot. I got 21mpg average on a trip to Colorado and back. With the F100, it'll be the same way.....find out where that sweet spot is. Of course it is not anywhere as slippery as the Ram is. It's about as aerodynamic as a brick.

 

Back to the pedal cluster. Got the pieces and parts all painted up, and got the****embly....reassembled. So, into the truck it went.
So from pictures perhaps you can see how the pedals go together. The clutch pedal has a shaft those goes through the bracket, and that is what rides on the ball bearings. The brake pedal has bronze bushings, and rides on the shaft. The shaft protrudes on the right side of the bracket and the clutch actuating arm attaches to the end and is held on with a nut. When the clutch pedal is pushed with the foot, the actuating arm pulls up, rather than pushing down. Seems kinda bass-ackwards.
So now I need to make up a pull rod that will use a spherical rod end on each end. That will attach to a bellcrank on the frame rail and actuate the master cylinder under the cab.
And now I can finish plumbing the brakes!

 

This last weekend, I got the pedal****embly installed, and on the photo, you can see a spherical rod end on the end of the clutch arm, along with a line going down to the floor opening for the stock clutch pull rod.
I'm not gonna reinvent the wheel so to speak here. Merely a refinement of factory. I see most people who convert to hydraulics come up with some elaborate linkage arrangement to put the clutch master on the firewall next to the brake master. WAY too much unnecessary engineering, with firewall reinforcement, extra bracketry under the dash...
I've decided to try a simpler approach.
The stock linkage rod pulls up. The factory Z-bar has a nice reinforced bracket on the frame rail. I'm gonna use that bracket and where the stock pull rod attaches to that, the only difference from factory is that the bellcrank and pull rod will be on bearings rather than bushings, or the bent end of a rod shoved into a hole. The bellcrank will rotate on a ball bearing and it will act on the clutch master mounted on the side of the frame rail under the cab, with a remote reservoir up on the firewall. Easy.
The clutch master will attach to the Tilton hydraulic release bearing in the photo via short -4AN lines. Right through the stock clutch fork window. So all that friction, from the pedal shaft, through the pull rod, the bell crank and the master pushrod will be on bearings, and the stock clutch fork is eliminated. No more clutch adjustments will be necessary, as the hydraulic release bearing is self adjusting.
Hopefully it all works out as I have envisioned.
And, my home built T5 trans adapter worked out perfectly!

 

Looking good Mike! What was your T5 out of? Will it handle the torque of the 300?

 

Thanks J.A.
Brand new Tremec T5. Rated for 300ft/lbs.
The way I drive, and the way this truck will be used.....more than enough. Just every day cruising, and maybe some light towing, such as a small single axle motorcycle trailer. I wanted it for the overdrive 5th gear for highway fuel mileage.
There'll be no max rpm, side stepping the clutch burn-outs. If a future owner gets it after I'm gone and does that and breaks it....it'll be their problem!

 

I used the clutch/brake pedal****embly out of the donor 92 F150, works great with a stock master and slave cylinder and tube etc. I used the M5r2 trans out of the same 92 F150. The original clutch/brake pedals on the 56 went thru the floor.

 

Stuck at home today while we get solar panels installed. Nuthun' much to do but knock some clutch stuff out. Dang it!
I had the bellcrank bearing holder already cut a couple weeks or so back. Same stock as the pedal shaft bearing holders. I knocked out the stock Z-bar pivot from the frame bracket, and welded a 5/8" bolt in it's place. Then, a couple pieces of 3/16" plate were cut for the arms and TIG'd to the bearing holder. Let that cool a bit, and then made up a little bearing retainer ring that will keep the bellcrank bearing in place. I didn't wanna put too much heat into it so a little spot weld in three places. Won't be too much trouble to cut the welds if the bearing ever needs to be changed.
90° between the two arms will do nicely to change direction. I just have to figure out the "gearing" so to speak. For that, I'll need to make up the pull-rod from the pedal cluster to the rearward facing arm and then figure out where to drill that hole. After that, I'll need to have the actual master cylinder on hand to figure out how much actual "push" it needs, as well as the best mounting location. That mount location should be just behind the crossmember as seen in the photo of the bellcrank installed. As it turns out, the steering box makes a convenient "stop" for the bellcrank!
Just a little bit of measuring and some basic math. Soon, I can check this one off as "DONE!"
Also got the steering wheel and column painted with urethane single stage. Same Wimbledon white as the upper part of the dash.
So far, Mikey likes! A leather stitch on cover will go on the wheel when the finish work is being done.

 

I’m finding more and more, the need to actually and continually tell myself to SLOW DOWN and think things through. Particularly so on the more tedious and mundane tasks****ociated with a complete renovation such as this F100. I’d imagine a lot of you have been here before.

As an example, I’m closing in on completing the brake system plumbing. All new steel lines and hoses, along with converting to power brakes and front discs.

I’ve made plenty of brake-lines over the course of my life and I have the tools, so it should be easy. Right?

Well it is. Perhaps too easy. Easy enough to where I’m trying too hard to just get it done, and scratched off my “to-do” list.

At least three times, I've flared the end of the tube, and either forgotten to put the tube nut on first or put it in front of the bend before making that bend.

Silly? Yes. Stupid? Yes.

Aggravating? Absolutely! Especially when an intricately bent piece needs to be tossed and completely re-done and you need to buy more tube to re-do it!

Ok. Rant over! I gotta go to the auto parts store to buy ANOTHER length of tube!

 

Oh yeah, been there and done that more times than I'm going to admit here.

 

FWIW, and if I remember correctly on Ford 1/2 tons in the 60's if the truck had limited slip, you got a Dana 44, not a 9". "Sometime" in the later 60's they switched to Dana 60's and they seemed to be fairly common some years ago. So, they were one of the only semi-floating 60's out there, besides the ones used behind 440s and 426 Hemis... and, yeah, a proper****** to work on, especially without a spreader.

 

I'm OK with the Dana Bob. As long as it behaves itself. I'd even go as a far as replacing bearings and clutch packs.
But if them gears get to howlin', she's outta there!

 

Looks like a fun lil' truck is in the makin'! I've always liked the 300/5-speed combo... had it in my '59 F-100. As for the Dana 60, they're close to bullet proof, 'specially in a light rig like yours... you should have no problems.
Cool build, keep goin'!

 

Cool build... looks like a fun lil' truck is in the makin'! I've always liked the 300/5-speed combo, had that in my '59 F-100. As for the Dana 60, those are near bullet proof, 'specially in a light rig like yours... you shouldn't have any problem with it. I'm looking forward to watching your progress!