Technical 60 El Camino Spinning Wheel Stud

I'm just gonna focus on the windshield and backglass trim for now. Gonna take some time.

 

Center punch the lug, & drill that bitch. Fill 'er up with penetrating oil. Let it sit.

MAP gas torch .. heat it up. Won't hurt the Cragar .. unless you're an idiot. You're not. Then impact spin that b*tch off.

Worked every time for me.

 

I guess you were reading that before Al noticed...

I'd think anything in that stud line up needs a replacement as it will be nicked, hit, dented and cut...I wonder between the hub or stud what gave up doing it's job at hand...do they make oversize studs for damaged hubs or is it time for a tack weld?

 

I've got front hubs if ya need em Al.

 

I also don't know how a Cragar center cap is removed. If you can take it off and remove the drum/hub weld a nut on the other end of the stud. Then you'll have (in effect) a bolt and nut that you can use wrenches/sockets on.

 

Can’t you take the dust cap off the rim, remove dust cap off the drum, then spindle nut thus remove drum and all? Then remove grind or torch off the offending stud from the backside. Been awhile since I work on a chebby wheel

 

Thanks for the offer. I think I’ll be able to cut the stud. If not, I still have the parts car here.

My first try will be cutting the stud.

 

You beat me to it

 

Yeah, no popoffski...​

 

Drill some holes in a flat spot (lug nut) and then connect them with a chisel (using vise grips to keep it from turning) or use an air hammer with a chisel tip and try to chop the stud under the nut.

 

The center cap is held on with that screw in the middle of the cross bar. You might be able to pry the cap off but may not be able to get the dust cap off the hub or the cotter key out of the nut.

The best idea is to take a Dremel (style tool) with the right size cut disk and cut the nut right at the washer. Then the wheel will come off what is left of the nut and you can cut the stud off behind the nut and knock the remains out of the stud and figure out your plan from there.

Drilling holes in the nut and squirting oil in isn't going to do a damned bit of good as that won't keep the stud from spinning in the hub. The problem is that the stud spins in the hub.

 

I did say to use vise grips on the nut...or a wrench would also suffice...

 

You gave the correct and best answer in that post and in the long run the only viable one. As long as it is a straight shank nut the wheel will slide right off over what is left of the shank. Tapered shank he is going to have to do a tad more cutting but I am pretty well positive that is a straight shank nut.

 

It's definitely a straight shank and once the head is removed the wheel will slide off, crappy situation no matter how you go about it.

 

Cut, turn, cut, turn, cut turn, snap it off is about all you can do.

 

Since it spins, I would mark 4 points around the nut. Take an impact socket and a long extension and bend the stud outward. Turn it by a 1/4, rinse repeat. Eventually the stud may work harden and fail. It may take a while, but see if it has some give to it.

 

Arn't the axles held in by bolts with the nuts on the back side just remove the whole axle and drum and wheel assembly so you can get to the backside of the stud.

 

It’s a uni lug Cragar,,,,the nut is a normal lug nut .
The washer is special,,,,it’s kind of oblong to make the wheel center on the hub .
The washers were distinct to use with your bolt pattern .
Look at the pic,,,,notice besides the studs on the open holes .
There are kind of protruding shapes,,,the washer nested next to these,, and it helped center the wheel .
I never really did like the uni lugs,,,,but at that moment in time,,,that was what was produced .
And you had to pay attention when tightening them down,,,,,the washer would turn slightly and it would be cocked up on one side and not seat correctly .

Tommy

 

I'd make a sheetmetal 'splash guard' to protect the wheel (with some fiberglass insulation behind it) and torch the nut off....

 

Not sure how I managed to do this message, but their it is. Just click the expand button..... Works every time. I learned this watching a guy once with a front shock where nut won't turn but the piston will.
Twice since was able to use it on lugs twice since.

 

Go to the opposite side of the wheel away from the stuck nut and pull out on it while using an impact to loosen the nut.

 

They actually make a took for splitting nuts. I think craftsman called it a nut splitter. I have one some place that I have used a bunch of times in the last 30 or 40 years. If i recall last i bought one (a present for a friend) it was like a 7 or 8 dollar tool. If you are gonna play with old cars it is well worth the price of admission.

 

Given how many studs that I have broken over the years, without power tools, that is what I would do.

All nuts back on, car on the ground, longest pipe on hand, snap it off.

 

Except that won't get to the shank part that is going through the wheel.

 

Nothing will. But if one gets lucky it will stretch things around enough to get the bugger off.

 

I do think it's more than just removing the lug nut here...

I believe there is an effort to preserve both the hub, drum and Mag...

Some of these methods ensure the mag will be damaged so I don't think that's truly the best option...perhaps the last...

If I was going to drill the stud to remove the nut I might also cut off as much of the nut as close to the washer and then step drill till the larger diameter portion is removed...and yes it spins so protection must be applied to the Mag surface and secured with vise grips or similar prior to drilling...

 

D
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It would be off by now.

 

Vous l'avez acheté au Canada, il est donc possible que le propriétaire ne connaisse que le français.


You did buy it in Canada, so it's possible the owner may have only known French.

 

Spent some time today with the impact and a pry bar. The nut has definitely loosened but has decided not to free itself from the car. I’ve got a bunch of room to use a Zip disk now but it snowed today and my air drive Dremel did not like the weather. On to electric at some point.

 

Hell with it Al, just put the other 4 back on and leave it!