Technical 60 El Camino Spinning Wheel Stud

Shoot , I'm not sure I own a drill bit that would go through a chrome lug. Guess it's time for some new ones.

 

Uh...I doubt that...why the hell read just slap it together...that's MUCH more likely...I wonder of the 20 Lugs how many are actually on correct...I mean there was 50/50 odds...

 

A tire shops worst nightmare I suppose...

 

The HAMB humor is rampant!

 

Regardless of what you do if you want to save the rim chrome. Tape up all around it with multiple layers of blue tape of better yet some gaffers tape

I would put the wheels in the air and roll that lug so it’s facing 6 o’clock with the other lugs loose. Then knock it from the rear of the wheel with a BFH and block of wood to try To swedge it back into the hub hole.

onviulsy take all the other safely percausions when having the car in the air.
Otherwise like everyone else said use a smaller Dremel cut the nut off.

 

If your drill bit selection isn't tougher than the lug wrench that rounds off/mars lug nuts .. then YES .. it's time to upgrade your bits.

The stud is generally harder than the lug nut. Cutting oil is your friend. So is patience. Either or .. start with the smack of a good center punch. Make your mark, pilot hole drill with smaller bit, then jump up in size.

More to it, & more process, but ..

It's just metal. Regardless .. looks like Al has it licked, but I've drilled lugs many a time. Usually from loose wheels, being re-tightened on damaged threads. If you can't break it off, it'll sometime spin the knurl.

.. and here we are.

 

I saw a YouTube vidio of a guy working on a high end Audi. The tire store had seized a nut and also rounded it off. He drilled it out. The stud is 7/16 not 1/2 like Ford. He got it out without hurting the wheel.

 

You get it off yet?

 

As I said before if you remove the 4 nuts holding the axle retainer you can pull the axle brake drum and wheel as a unit. This will allow you to get to the back side of the stud and weld something to it that you can use to hold it from turning.

 

That's not going to work worth a damn on the front wheel he needs to take the wheel off per what he said in his first post. Never Assume.

 

My bad How about removing the center cap they are $20 if you destroy it? Is there enough room to remove the dust cap and nut?

 

I made up a 5 foot extension years ago from black pipe and a sacrificed short extension, welded it all together. It was used to shut the water main in the street when I moved my water meter. I still have it.

 

OK here's my 2 cents:
Weld an arm onto the side of any old beat up socket that fits the wheel nut and drill it out
1/2" using the 1/2" square as a guide.

 

I tried posting this earlier but was not successful.

I like my way best. Quick, easy, done. Tightest socket ( half inch ) you have, extension ( prefer a foot or more ) and pipe ( 4 ft long is nice ).

Move the lever in a straight line back and forth. Each time push and pull harder and harder. The stud will bust, with the nut on it. The remaining stud is easily punched out and replaced for about $4.

Works Quick, easy, done.

 

I've also cut lengthwise down one side of a nut to help relieve it's grip on the bolt. A sharp chisel, whacked in to the crack, and the nut expands enough to come off.

 

Flat toe it around a while. It'll fall off soon enough.

 

I had this happen twice recently, one on a friend's car w high dollar aluminum wheels where the nut was sunk down in the wheel and on my car w a steel wheel. In both cases drilled out the center of the stud using a good cobalt drill bits stepping up to 3/8 inch. (7/16" stud). Had to take an old socket and weld a handle on it to keep the nut/stud from turning. After drilling deep enough put a large punch in the hole and w a hammer broke the stud off. The studs are case hardened so drilling out to the OD of the threads is difficult but easy to break. Took about an hour to do.

 

Don't know if it's been mentioned before, but if you removed all the other nuts, dropped the vehicle/wheel on to the ground, then using the weight of the vehicle to put side thrust on the shaft, would that be enough to prevent the stud spinning??

 

Lots of good suggestions here. Whichever method you decide to use, you must not concentrate on how you are holding you're mouth. You know, tongue hanging to one side while mouth is open a bit. Maybe you do it another way. That has to be a natural expression that you make when concentrating on a task at hand. Although, keeping the mouth shut will keep shit from flying in there. But if you smash a finger or bust a knuckle, go ahead and open it wide to let the cuss words out.

 

I'd just amazed and appalled on how many don't actually read the gent's complete post all the way though before throwing out an answer. Many that can't possibly work.
Then there are some that will work but the added cost of special drill bits are probably more then he actual value of the wheel he is trying to take off in the real world.

 

If you stroke it enuff it'll get off...






Hey, nobody else said it

 

Yikes

 

Success. Used a small Zip disk on a Dremel and was able to cut through the nut shank on opposite sides. 18”extension and a socket and the nut snapped. You can see the nut was almost off but was stubborn. All 5 studs will need to be replaced. The PO buggered up all of them.

 

Yay!!!!! Go brother!

 

Couple of light knicks…. but they’ll be fine. It’s surprisingly difficult to use a cutting disk blind because of the sparks in the contained space of the spokes. Couldn’t see shit.

 

You did good man

 

How do you spell relief? THIS!!! Good job Al. The hole in the hub looks pretty Loosy...yes blind operations are difficult...that's when you can fill your eyes with crap trying to get in close to see what's happening...

 

Dirty deeds done dirt cheap

 

Success! Glad you posted your success story, it encourages others to persevere.

 

Pour some denatured alcohol in the air line. Keeps the tool from freezing up.