Ok, I am working on a 1957 Ford Country Sedan wagon and all of the gl*** has to come out. Doors-not worried about, quarter gl*** not tooo worried about. But the windshield and lift gate gl***-worried about as they are wrap around. Does anyone who has dealt with type of gl*** have any tips/hints/helpful advice? I called a local company and they want car in there shop for a week and off the top of his head without any real data he was guessing several thousand $. I have seen several You Tube videos and all things considered it does not look to hard-but and here it comes-I know it isn't as easy as they make it out to be. Since they have done this many times before and me-never. So let the info flow. Thanks, Mike
I know that some of the gl*** on old Fords needs to be installed with the stainless trim installed in the gasket all at the same time. I have done it a couple times using the cord/string in the gasket and soapy water for lube then pull the cord around the perimeter to pull the gasket over the metal windshield opening. Had a helper applying pressure on the windshield at the same time from the outside as I was pulling the cord on the inside. Get some kind of handle you can wrap the cord around to help with the grip and a tool that looks like a pointed screwdriver with a ball tip on the end also helps. Had an old gl*** guy tell me it helps to know where to smack on the gl*** with a fist as well. Be ready to possibly clean, sand, and paint around the opening as well. You might find more rust under the gasket than you were expecting to find. Strong hands are also a must, mine are not anymore. Good luck.
I did my front and rear on my 57 coupe and a Morris minor front recently. I would say the hard part on the front is setting up the trim in the rubber and getting the corners in correctly. It’s best you buy the tool that helps you fish the rope around the rubber gutter. it makes it much easier to do. I used the red rubber grease as some window guys suggested within the Hamb. I know I will be pulling the window for headliner installation anyhow. Overlap the rope by about 2 feet each way. I actually did it twice in the front. It was much easier one way than the other. I believe it was from the bottom up was easier to get the corners in. There is a lot of hand slapping and holding with the suction handles. If you get to use the plastic ABS trim tools. Make sure to use the more rounded ones so you don’t poke or rip any rubber.
My windshield was broken, so it came out with little precautions other than tape over the cracks to keep it in 1 piece. Your '57 should have the bottom trim inserted into the gasket. I got a new windshield gasket and had a pro install it. Always good to have a good old-time gl*** guy around. He offered to remove my rear gl*** when I got around to the headliner. His prices are reasonable and he makes house calls. He also set all my door gl***.
Mark the middle of the gl***, gasket and windshield opening so everything lines up. I got my windshield in 95% but couldnt get the last 5 inches to pop into place. Ended up having a shop do it. They even said they almost couldnt do it either. I was wondering if my roof had sagged slightly in the middle. Good luck with yours
Had a gl*** guy come last Sunday and installed my windshield and liftgate gl*** in my wagon. He's been doing it a long time and works for himself mostly doing cl***ic cars. I had the new rubber stretched over the gl*** before he arrived. He uses Gojo hand cleaner to lube the rubber for the trim and the rope. Then put a bead of window sealer from caulking gun. He then put the trim in the rubber and I helped set the gl*** in place and held pressure while he roped it in. He had both windows done in about an hour and charged $150 cash (and he traveled to me about 45 minute drive one way) So them having for a week and charging $1000 sounds like a ripoff. Surely you can find a better deal.
I have some pictures in an article I did for my website a long time ago... maybe this link will help as well. https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post...38-rear-gl***-and-stainless-trim-installation I wish I would have purchased the suction cups; it would have made handling much easier. What they guys say above is certainly all true and very good tips. I was like you before I installed the windshield and back gl*** - never had done it before. Well, I take that back - I did remove a broken windshield one time on a 55 many years ago. In the end, if you take your time and follow the advice of these gents it will go well for you. Like some have said, the biggest deal to consider is how to work with your stainless, measure for center on the gl***, fit it up correctly, etc before setting the seal against the metal lip and pulling the cord. FYI - it helps to have that rubber WARM!
If they think it might take several thousand dollars they don't know what the hell they're doing and don't go there. If they can't just lay a bead of glue they must think it's some complicated mystery. I did my first wrap-around windshield when I was 16 in the '80's. The real hard part as I remember it is getting the old hard rubber out without the knife slipping and cutting yourself. But with that said I pulled gl*** from a car once that was in a junkyard at the bottom of a stack 4 cars deep. And I also recall that it's easier starting bottom first, and the last bit tends to get harder.
I forgot to mention to remove the old gl***. Get a box cutter and cut the inside lip of the old rubber. Just run it until you start feeling some of the metal. On the outside you can also run the box cutter within the groove to start cutting it. you really just need the inside. Then you just push it out or forward from the inside. Have some on the outside to help. I would recommend you take pics of how the old rubber and stainless fit before you removed anything especially at the corners to you can try to get it to the same spot.
I wonder if back in 1957 did it take a week and several thousand dollars to put a windshield in. I would have to ask him. Sounds like he doesn't want the job.
Several thousand??? Even if it included front and rear gl*** cost/shipping, still would be high. As stated before, getting the gl***/seal/and stainless together is the hard part. On the corners, I had to use a few drops of super glue to hold the rubber in place. When installing make sure the gl*** is centered. You don't want to be pushing sideways on the gl*** curved area to center it after it is set in on the bottom. Start at the bottom, that way you can use the weight of the gl*** to your advantage. Otherwise, you'll be having to lift the gl*** into the top flange Be aware the Custom series windshields (your wagon) is a taller windshield than the Fairlane series. Yours should be about 17", the Fairlanes about 16". The reason I mentioned this is that I ordered my gl*** 4 or5 years before I actually needed it, and they shipped the wrong gl***! Nothing I could do after all that time except order/pay for a new one. My wife and I installed the windshield in less than 1/2 hour after everything was ready to go in.
Thanks for help. I just realized that I would need to install the head liner at that time. That isn't really in the budget at this point in time. SI may just have to insulate the roof and leave it be for now. But at least things are coming along, I got the ****** back, I am getting ready to pull the original one out, brakes are 95% done and the tank will be going back in next. Then I have to run some lines. Mike
Maybe not, re the headliner. If my memory serves me correctly, on the sedans, etc, the headliner has to be installed before the REAR gl*** goes in because the material is wrapped/glued around the gl*** mounting flange. There is no garnish rail at the rear window, only the rubber gl*** seal. Not so at the windshield as there is a tacking strip real close to the front and the material does not wrap around that mounting flange. Reasoning would conclude the wagons' headliner could be done after the gl***. With that said, it would be easier to install the headliner with the windshield out just for more working room. Installing headliners is a ***** if you're like me and have a tough time working with hands above head. It took 2 full days, but I must say it came out near perfect. Tip: a pair of artist's canvas stretching pliers is invaluable in pulling the wrinkles out.
From a Ford Group member on Facebook is this windshield installation pictorial from the 1952-54 Ford Shop Manual https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=189455602563771&set=pcb.1663741183793062
Jeff....I get a "content not available now" on that link. Mike.......I can give some tips on installing a headliner, but for now, if it's not too late, remember to number the roof bows as they are removed, and for the insulation use the lightest weight you can find, and don't use spray can adhesives of any brand/variety. None of it will hold up to the heat generated on a roof parked in direct sunlight for the day (shows, etc). Use Weldwood contact cement for Landaw roofs (sp?). available in upholstery supply shops. It's about the only stuff that's gonna hold up to intense heat., and as an extra advantage, it is soooo much cheaper than spray cans in the long run. BTW, for insulation I used foil face bubble wrap, available at Lowe's, etc. you don't want a heavier insulation falling against the headliner.
Great info on the headliner. Don’t forget to run the center and rear dome light wires or at least keep them intact!
great point!! One of the members on the '57 forum is dealing with that right now. He had a new headliner installed without running new wires first, and now he's trying to figure out how to get new wires installed without having to take down part of the headliner.
The guy who did mine said that the re-pop gaskets are often oversize just enough to make things difficult. We used to take the ones from the dealer and put them on the roof of the car in the sun for a few hours to make them more pliable. New gaskets I see are like over-cooked pasta.
The headliner bows are still inplace-along with some of the house insulation, which will be coming out at some point. Thanks for the tip about the glue and the silver/bubble insulation from Lowes. It will get insulated as I don't like driving around in ovens. I will start working the doors as soon as I get her back on her wheels in a few weeks. Mike
Thanks Jeff, OK it holds up in heat but will it insulate a wagon roof? From what I see it is a thin 'tar paper' type product. Or can I put that down first and then add another insulated product after it? Mike
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