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Technical hydraulic power windows

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by doug rhodes, Nov 27, 2021.

  1. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    Anyone out there with experience on early Olds power windows? Spent a lot of time trying to get all of the windows working on my 53 98 Olds. I started with a rebuilt pump, new rigid lines and new rubber lines and got the passenger windows to go up and down with the cylinders that were in the car when I got it. Every now and than though when I try to lower one of those windows all four seem to be energized. I suspect that may be in the switch which I took apart and cleaned. I have a diagram of the system that seems a bit vague but I'm looking for some possible pics of the actual hard wiring. There has to be some type of signal distribution to seperate/isolate the energized switch. Everything is rebuilt on the car but interior. When and if I can get the windows working or not it's gonna go down the road to a new owner too much time being taken away from other projects. Any input will be appreciated.
     
  2. Is the circuit breaker under the dash near the cowl good, they usually get corroded. Is the pump working when you hit any switch.
     
  3. This is Bu 1952-buick-hydro-lectric-power-unit-installation.jpg ick but should be the same BPO and Cad.
     
  4. mgtstumpy and alanp561 like this.
  5. garyf
    Joined: Aug 11, 2006
    Posts: 319

    garyf
    Member

    I would zero in on grounds.
     
  6. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    The pump is working and had the right side windows working up and down but now the right door window moves when I push any of the four drivers door switches but the right rear doesn't go down now. I tried to follow the drivers door main switch wire harness but can't seem to find where they go. I think if I can find the other end of the harness I'll be able to at least get an idea on what the problem is. I was never able to get the left side to work but did see the drivers window move up slightly but not continue up. There has to be some type of control valve directing the fluid to each cylinder just can't find it.
     
  7. You got an electrical issue .

    check your powers and grounds going into your master switch .
    You either got a lack of ground or power, shorted switch , bad wiring or connection.
     
  8. yes sounds like electrical, with a dose of air in the lines, those are a real bummer to blead.
     
  9. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    Good points gonna start where I can see by disconnecting the wires to the main switch and touch wires seperately. Still want to find the other end of that wire harness but one thing at a time. My guess on bleading the system would be to crack the fitting at the cylinder and energize that cylinder since I see no bleaders anywhere. Gonna check on Monday. I'll post my findings and thanks again for the input.
     
  10. On vintage convertible tops, I use a hose and bottle or funnel to keep extra fluid above the fill port basically overfull and cycle the system it will foam and settle over and over again and then start to work. It takes a long while. I assume a window system will have a lot of area to trap air and crazy it only takes a bit to make a system not work. I have only worked on a couple of windows and seats, so I have no rock solid fix. Good luck brother it will be fun.
     
  11. nukeman
    Joined: Mar 17, 2007
    Posts: 133

    nukeman
    Member
    from Michigan

    If I remember correctly, there are solenoids at each cylinder and from the diagrams for the wiring, energizing the solenoid will drain the cylinder and allow spring tension to lower the window. But it looks like raising the windows will run the pump and raise them all? I don't see a control for each window.

    I also found this :
    http://www.1949cadillac.com/the-infamous-hydro-lectric-system-part-i/
    http://www.1949cadillac.com/the-infamous-hydrolectric-system-part-ii/
    https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=153692.0
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2021
  12. lucas doolin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 565

    lucas doolin
    Member

    Had a couple of early 50s Lincolns with hydraulic power windows. With everything is working correctly, when you activate the window down function, it opens the solenoid for that window and the powerful spring pulls the window down. When you activate the window up function, it does the same thing but runs the pump at the same time. With the solenoid open, the spring will begin to pull the window down before the pump catches up, so the window will first start to go down and then hesitate a second before it goes up. Worst case scenario. Windows are partially down and it starts to rain. The battery is not sufficiently charged. You activate the window up function only to see the window go the rest of the way down and it rains on the mohair. The window that doesn't move is because the solenoid has either failed or is not getting power. The windows that operate together is because of "cross talk" in the switch. One way around all this mess would be to replace the hydraulic regulators with electric ones from a slightly newer similar model.
     
  13. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

     
  14. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    Yes electrical issue for sure. Just removed all the wires on all of the switches and individually energized each window seperately and still have power going to other windows it seems. What I mean is if I energize the left rear window for example the right door window slowly moves. Again the right front door window still works up and down with its switch only but the right rear window was working but doesn't now. I can't figure that one out. I see actual pics on line of components for Cadillac and Buick but none for Oldsmobile. This is why I need to find the physical destination of the wires from to the switches.
     
  15. Oilguy
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 663

    Oilguy
    Member

    Can you post a copy of the diagram you mentioned? How about photos of the controls at the windows?
     
  16. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,777

    Dave Mc
    Member

    On my 53 Cadillac ,I had similar problem with the Driver Door 4 way switch , there is a hard plastic shaft which all four switches pivot on , the plastic shaft in my switch had crumbled and created the same problem you described , I disassembled that switch and removed all pieces of the original shaft and used a swizzle stick ( Like the ones that hold an olive in a martini ) to replace it, you could use a long toothpick , but I think the plastic may last longer ? if you replace the fluid don't use brake fluid like the 1952 service manual directs you to use , Mine had brake fluid , a leaky cylinder will cause paint damage anywhere it reaches . GM realized that and upgraded the manuals to use Auto Transmission fluid instead . I had to flush the entire system with alchohol , then fill with tranny fluid . all works good now. IMG_1075.JPG

     
    ClayMart likes this.
  17. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    Sweet Caddy same color as my 98 but with a black roof. I've eliminated my switches as the source of my problem but thanks for the input.
     
  18. doug rhodes
    Joined: Oct 27, 2016
    Posts: 29

    doug rhodes

    I found a schematic diagram from a search on "hydro electric " windows if that helps. I don't have any pics to post right now.
     
    Oilguy likes this.
  19. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 833

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

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