Hot Rods Rusty has a new project- father son build , 26 T roadster!

Glad to see you polished it. For anyone using this great idea, remember that galvanized or zinc plated stuff is REAL BAD for your health to braze or weld. Safety is to be taken seriously here.

https://weldingtroop.com/why-is-welding-galvanized-steel-dangerous/

 

These are steel no galvanizing.

 

Ingenuity is firing up!

 

I built this little support for the pedal assembly bracket the other day, although the bracket is just tacked it moved a little more than I had anticipated. I had a left over piece of a 40’s Dodge pickup pedal arm so I cut it and added tabs to the end. It really stiffened things up.

 

Looking good so far, really enjoy your built threads

 

Broke the frame off my table/ frame jig and got it on the ground so I can see ride height. Here some photos from this afternoon.

 

Now we know why your name is ROCKET you sure are moving right along on this build.

 

I had a few days off this week before Christmas so I was able to get some shop time in. I cut the gas door out of the cowl and then used a piece of 50 ford trunk lid skin for the patch. I also got the rear spring pack put together and hung on the rear end. It’s looking like I will need to break the cross member off and lower it about 3/4” to an 1” since I only have about 2-1/2” from the rear to the frame. I’m trying to get about 3” rear end travel. And the fart in a frying pan that I am I got the front axle under the front. The biggest job was heating and bending the steering arm to fit the dropped axle.

 

Fart in a frying pan lmao

 

So it’s been two steps forward and one step back. After getting the frame off my bench and mocked up I absolutely hated the stance. When I built the front crossmember I made it to except the high radiator that 26/7 use. So yesterday I took the crossmember out and took 1-1/2” off the top so I could raise it up in the frame lowering the front. So since I have to have a radiator made for the T shell and plumbed for the flathead I will now run an early style low radiator, that will keep the top of the shell where I need it and lose the depth on the bottom side.

 

Yeah...

 

Following

 

Man we have had a spell of cold weather so getting out to the shop has been tuff plus I’ve been working out out town for the last week so I haven’t had time to even get down to work. I did get my front spring retainer figured out. I had these old after market overload spring u-bolts so I did a bit of cutting on them. I had to cut the top off the u bolt because the bottom of the radiator will sit very close to the top of the crossmember and we will be using a T shell with the lower pan at the bottom of the shell. I figured the way these bolts were made it will give me a lot to weld to and they are pretty flat so the lower pan will sit closer to the crossmember. I then milled up these spring retainers from some 1/2” stock I had laying around. There not perfect but they will do.

 

I got to reworking the rear crossmember also. I just didn’t have enough travel for the rear end when I mocked everything up on my frame table so I lowered the crossmember and then used some pieces I cut out of an old torque tube give the rear of the frame a little shape. I really dig curves and things that flow together instead of having square bulky parts thrown together.

 

Veddy cool project!

—louis

 

Nicely down Tim, this weather been a bitch, been trying to work on the Willys but bitter cold sucks, later buddy.

 

It rolls!

 

Awesome stance and milestone @rusty rocket...

 

Thank stogy, front should go down another few inches with the real motor and rad. I’m working with a bare block at this point. I have 5-6 60 pound bags of ready mix concrete, I thought ide stack on the motor to see what ride height really looks like. I can also figure out shock mounts and shock length if I do that. Readneck engineering hahaha.

 

Now we’re talkin ‼️‼️

 

I ordered lower shock mounts from speedway. Two things, one they hang to low for my taste and two the perch bolt is to short to get the nut enough treads to seat on. I did some crappy milling on them and will now weld them to the bottom of the radius rod. The vice grip is pulling it out of position in the photo but when I weld it it will be set a bit better.

 

A little redneck engineering to find ride height, 7 bags at 60 pounds plus my bare block should be close to finished weight. Now to figure we’re to cut my f-1 shock arms.

 

Had some shop time today. I got the drivers front shock mounts cut and tacked together along with the headlight mount tacked on, sure does take a bunch of time to measure, cut, fit, drill, tap and tack together. Only three left to go! Don’t laugh at my redneck ride height mock up.

 

Good that you used 60 pound bags. Lifting those 94 pound bags are a killer on your back.

 

Nice! And I dig those Canadian piecrusts!

 

Looking freaking great!

 

Garage dog Riley is excited to ride the T with Dad!

 

Pops scored an F-1 box yesterday from an old friend of ours. Pops asked what he wanted for it and he said take it and use it.

 

the similarity is uncanny ‼️‼️

 

Yep, hairy and stinky!