Currently in process of a total front suspension rebuild and installing Wilwood disc brakes/master cyl. I had intended to post step by step account, hopefully to be of help to others,and I will in the near future, but right now the digital camera I've used for years refuses to connect to my computer, so I went and bought a cheap card reader that worked one time, then nothing. I'll try a better grade of card reader, a new camera is now way expensive, and the old one still works, just can't retrieve the photos. At this point, I have the front suspension removed and was about to sandblast the frame, when the weather went from 75 degrees to 39 with a 30-40 mph wind, not conducive to blasting and paint. Spent a day searching for somewhere that would press the lower control arm bushings out and the only place in town wanted $60 for each hole and the same to press them in again! So, I will buy a 6 -ton press from my area Northern Tool and do them myself. Who doesn't need more tools? Have yet to purchase the suspension and brake kit,etc. Intend to use a complete suspension kit from the Early Ford Store, not the cheapest, but hoping for good quality. Really don't want to use a power booster and will be discussing this issue with Wilwood soon. I'm thinking a 7/8 bore master would be the way to go, we'll see. I left the rear end in the frame right now so I can pull the frame out with my engine hoist to blast and paint,roll back in garage and ***emble front suspension,etc. Hope to be able to post some pics soon, but not much to show right now.
I got the 7/8 bore master from Wilwood for my Sedan and the difference over the drums is almost like power brakes. You will have to put the calipers on the rear as the bleeders will hit the sway bar link end at full lock, I found that out after we were done and haven't had the time to switch them. The brackets for the calipers can be used for either front or rear mount depending on which side you put the brackets on. Link to my post with some pictures. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/front-brake-conversion-complete.1243064/#post-14222059
I'm using a Mustang disc/drum master, no power and it stops fine. Bore size is 1". I did all my bushings using big sockets in a bench vise. I needed a helper, a press would let you do it solo. I needed axle bearings pressed on, by NAPA, even bought the bearings and seals there. They soaked me $100 for the press charge. After that I used a press at a friend's machine shop.
Glad to hear all that, and thanks for the tip on caliper location. Pics are always a help, can't wait to get on this. Very appreciative of everyones help. Very few "car guys" here, if it's not meant for the water, no one cares. This great group is my only link to the automotive restoration world.
I did all my control arm bushings with a length of 1/2(?) threaded rod, some washers, nuts, and sockets from a cheap 3/4 Harbor freight socket set. I occasionally need a big *** socket anyways, but I use the sockets alone more often than not for odd ball projects (like forming a metal strip/tube to a certain dia.
I did all of my control arm bushings myself as well. I wish I had taken some video of it like I do now with most projects. At any rate, here is a link to one of my blog posts that covers the work... https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/09/07/55-ford-restoration-blog-part-4 and... https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/09/05/1955-ford-fairlane-restoration-blog-part-3
I did consider making something similar, as I did when I replaced the rear spring bushings,but for a 12 ton press just under $200, including shipping, I decided to spring for it. It won't be the last time I'll need it I'm pretty sure. I also considered welding up a press, using a 6 ton bottle jack, but the time involved is precious to me. Never enough time to work on this build. Travel to my local Northern Tool location is normally only about 25 min. but with all the road construction, it could easily be 45 to a hour, each way, so with Northerns free shipping, I went for it.
7/8” Wilwood on my 56 and their front kit and prop valve. Rear has 8.8 with F-150 11”-2-1/4” drums with smaller wheel cylinders since I have no power either. Way better than all drums but not quite power unless you make an emergency stop. Added an extended T-bird heat deflector with reflecting tape to the underside. Also made a deflector for the prop valve.
The master does sit pretty close to the exhaust manifold. I intend to coat my manifolds with as yet undetermined heat reducing coating, hopefully resolving the heat issue, but good to know there is a fallback option if temp readings are still too high. Same for prop valve. Thanks for the specific info on your setup, glad you're happy with the results. Boosters are so fugly to me.
Thanks , been following your blog/build. I have all your great info. Very well done and as complete as I have ever come across, much more detailed. Your blog should be a great help to all.
Our stock single never had one because Ford felt it was far enough away. The 55-57 Thunderbird did and Prestige Thunderbird in Ca. sells them extended for the dual ones. My manifolds are coated with Eastwood brush on coating for 10 years and still look good. The aluminum deflector on the bottom and inside of the prop deflector are multi layer 3” wide tape from Home Depot. The deflectorsare painted BBQ black heat paint. Good luck.
Glad to hear it, I am amazed at how many visitors my website gets each month - over 1,000 views with 600 or so "unique visitors" and from the valid email addresses that subscribe to the blog it does look like my tinkering around in the garage is helping someone out there...
The Jalopy Journal
