So, Keith has a '35 Ford roadster in the shop that I'll cover more on later... But this morning, he lowered the headlights and I thought I would do a quick tech piece on how he did it. Step 1. Use a razor blade to cut the paint around the rivets... This is done to the paint doesn't chip out when you are drilling the rivets out. Step 2. Cut the rivets out so that you can release the inner headlight mount. Step 3. Cut a relief in the bottom of the headlight just big enough to allow the bottom mount (the part that attaches to the fender) to slide into the headlight bucket. Step 4. Use simple hardware - just nuts, bolts, and spacers - to adjust the height of the headlights to where you want them. Step 5. Step back and enjoy your work. Major improvement in profile...
I had to pull up a google image to see what a stock 35 roadster light was at. I think that hints at this being one of those some people won't notice mods....and those are the best kinds.
Good thinking! I pondered how to do that on my '35 flatback, but left it hanging, undecided... Simple operation, when done this way. (brilliant)
another solution is to use Ford Pilot headlight stalks... they bolt to the fenders in the same location, only with a slightly broader flange & the headlight mounts the same as original. Benefit is they are just over an 1 3/4" shorter than the orig 35 stalks. I'm sure some of the Aussie Hambers can find you a pair..
Last time I lowered the lights on a '36 3 winder was in the 70's when I sliced and diced a pair of '40 Chevy p***enger lights and nested them in the fender valley. Wish I had pictures, but I'm sure many have seen it done - an old custom trick.
How was he able to cut that relief out of the bottom so cleanly, without damage to the paint? Seems like a difficult task to do with a cutting wheel or a jigsaw. Also, is the gap around the bottom of the bucket and the fender mount a concern? Maybe not, doesn't look like moisture will get in there and shouldn't be visible, just curious.
I used the same trick on my 35, also added 36 rims and lenses. One of the few jobs that went as planned. a
1. Tape, patience, and a whole lot of skill with one of these: 2. No, it's pretty tight... If anything, it gives a place for the water to drain? That's a gorgeous car...
"That's a gorgeous car..." Wow, a thumbs up from the boss, made my day ! Thanks Ryan. I might never clean this keyboard ever again. The car, like myself, is still a work in progress.
Just got around to doing this on my lights and figured out that longer screws/bolts that replace the rivets no longer enter the headlight shell squarely; and didn't look too good. I looked back thru this and other techs and found no mention of how to fix this. I was using 10-24 carriage bolts and ended up bending the heads (kinda like deuce headlight bar bolts) to match the contour of the shell. I think they look better now. Found I still have to extend the cut-out a little more to aim the light up enough.
How far did you drop yours? Is it possible to roll the buckets in a little tighter to the grille? Thanks.
Instead of using pricey rod couplers, I cut some 1/2" x 1/8" wall DOM pieces 1" long for the spacers, due to the angle they sit on bucket and center piece I think it is a little more than 1" drop. Looks like there is room to go more, depending on what you are using for the lighting. Looks like you could roll them in as there is plenty of room around the hood handle. The picture shows a little more room than there is as the light was kinda balancing on the stand; but should give you the idea.
If anyone is looking for other options, go here and scroll the many pages that Bear posted on his '36 DD project. Just another of many ways to do it! Projects - '36DD - (My Double Duty 3-window build.) | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
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