On the 56 Chevy truck we are working on, we are going to eliminate the wing windows and use 1 piece gl*** in the doors. Are the needed rubber and weatherstripping different when you convert? Are there any special parts required other than the gl***. We have a SPW power window kit specific to the 56. Are any weatherstripping kits better or more complete than others. Any tips..........
If you haven't already researched it, there are conversion kits available: e.g, https://www.ecklers.com/1955-1959-c...yKTDIHQ-RbGK_i6QHKQX6j0nmWpv2gZBoCUD4QAvD_BwE Each to their own, but I kept my vent windows. They are really handy for deflecting the wind with the window open. don
I agree that they work well for deflecting, but every vehicle I ever had either leaked wind noise from them and/or the handles got loose and semi-useless. I like the cleaner look without them, but respect the fact that others like yourself like them. I must be the only guy on the Hamb with that view............
If you want it to work better than the vent windows, you're going to have to go to some effort to figure out how to make it seal, and how to make the gl*** the correct size. It might be harder than you think it is. I took one piece gl*** out of a guys truck and put it back to original, because he couldn't get it to work well. I expect there is a way to do it...but it's probably not going to use the original weatherstrip, and will likely require some metal work at the window opening.
Exactly. Window has to move on the diagonal to be a one piece vs straight up and down stock. I see a kit was mentioned via Ecklers (reply #2) but it offers no info per what comes in the kit nor how it installs. Do your home work.
Use universal window channel. I get it from JC Whittney as they are trad. The windown channel needs to go down the front of the door where the vent window used to be.
but it can't move on the diagonal, because it will hit the back of the door It's harder than it might look.
I'm sure there's a website that caters to the Task Force pickup. I'd go there and ask them how they did the modification and if they had problems or not. Also, there are a number of youtube videos that show exactly how it is done.
When I did my 66 Suburban I started with the original gl*** and used 1/4 inch Masonite for pattern making, did a dry run first in heavy duty cardboard by adding in the area to be extended by the cut-tape-try method, when I was happy with the fit, I transfered it to the Masonite, as it is firmer but still easy to cut, it also gives the gl*** guy a better pattern to work from.
A bud has a '56 Ford F100, (wraparound w/s, 'knee-knocker') with vents removed, "trick" 1 piece window gl***. (Ugh!) Took a ride, windows down...wind deflection nil, like to blew me out of the cab. (but, 'SO trick'!) Another bud has a '55 F100 ("slant cab", with vents removed, window 'kit' from Mid-'50s. Design of cab (?) made wind deflection much better than Paul's '56, so when asked if I wanted to do mine? My answer: "Phuque no!" Your opinions may differ...
Good rubbers tracks and whiskers are the key to vent window sealing and windows not rattling. We did ONE custom with one piece windos when I was at the shop. Never again. Way to much work for the result.
all the one piece kits have their inherit problems , the ford trucks the window sash and the vent wing are not in a strait line , so options are cut the sash off and weld in a strait one (done that) pain, or they have a kit that the gl*** is actually curved front to back , a pain as well,worked ok, on the chevys the upper frame and track angles are messed up once you eliminate the vent and the gl*** in a fixed (stock) regulator becomes a binder and finding a happy middle is problematic,, its all how much Time as in hours of working stuff over and over to get it right ,,, one trick is to install specialty power windows power regulators , they have trick sliders on their regulators gl*** channel that allow for and aft as well as in and out and really cant possibly bind , this helps tremendously ... after having done a ton of em over the years and having to repair/band aid existing ones its all on how much messing with stuff you are prepared to do ,, fabricator john miss you dad
A friend set out to do this in his 40 sedan and discovered the vent gl*** and the main door gl*** are not in the same plane. E.g. there is a slight angle between the two pieces of gl***. This greatly complicated the job.
I went over to Utube and found a video by Brothers where a guy demonstrates the process. My concerns were about what supports the front of the gl*** when you remove the vent, and the angular motion of the gl***. The video makes it seem like a pretty easy process. This video is specific for the type of truck I have. I think they address the angularity of the window movement by tilting the linkage.
Ahhhh, not really. I think of it more as a "Custom"............but then, none of the hot rods in the 30s had vent windows as far as I know.
I did it once on a 58 Apache. Never again. Same amount of work to fix the vent windows as to eliminate them. I used a brand name kit, but the gl*** never fit right, lots of little **** to make it work barely good enough on a pretty nice truck. Like I said, never again. Vent windows are well worth whatever effort you are trying to avoid. It might ( or not) look better, but it won't be as pleasant to drive.
I met a guy years back that had 1 pc windows in a ‘56 Chevy PU. I was admiring it when he walked up. We got to talking and he said he’d wished he never did it, went on to say they rattled unless all the way up or all the way down. I didn’t ask particulars, just recall him saying that.
Apparently (according to the video above) the window shape was a problem and Brothers changed the shape of their window so that they were able to correct that issue. Maybe true, maybe not. At any rate there are enough people who do it that Specialty power Windows and Brothers both have products to support it. I do appreciate being advised that it can be problematic, and I will look for those issues as I try to convert.
May I ask how long ago you purchased yours? They mentioned that initially they had problems and subsequently made changes to the gl***.........so maybe they corrected the problem, and maybe not. Thats why I'm asking this question, to get advice from others who have actually tried it. Thanks for the input.
The Jalopy Journal
