Technical Yeah, Its got a Hemi/41 shop truck

It sure won't hurt to paint the Nutserts, but they should be zinc plated and won't rust.

 

Good call. I didn't think about the zinc plating. Thanks for the add!

 

l’m glad you got the fender holes located. You’re moving now.

 

That's hilarious
Apart from the U.S., there actually are two other countries that don't use the metric system: Myanmar and Liberia.

So yeah, you're in great company!

 

I thought you'd like that!

I was in Ireland a couple years back at a pub (go figure, right?), there was a table of hens next to me and my Mrs. and they were talking about the temp back home in Canadia and it was like 28 Celsius or some such nonsense, I said loudly and in jest, "what the hell is a Celsius"? One of the ladies responded "move away from the Americans". A couple from Germany came over and joined us and I bought drinks for the rest of the afternoon...I think it was afternoon, whatever.

 

I swear that was the opener of the last Kathleen Madigan video I watched.

 

If you gunna block those fenders use a soft block no more than 1/2" thick so it conforms to the shape better. You risk leaving "tram tracks' with a hard, non flexible block.

 

Gonna be smooooooth.

The metric system is for those that can't convert fractions.

 

I'm afraid you are missing the one that goes in the middle of the cowl where the fender bolts on. If you mount the small "L" bracket and mock up your fender you will see where it needs to go. Pretty sure you only need the lower one of those three you installed. Someone correct me if I'm wrong!

 

The attaching points for the front fenders on '40, and '41 pickups are that "L" bracket at the top on the cowl, and the running boards..the sheet metal "splash guard" attaches at one of its 3 points to the fender lip, approx. 6-8" up from the bottom.
The three holes on the cowl were utilized on the big Ford trucks for their fenders I believe (tonners), I'm guessing same cab?
I thought you wanted the holes, to make your cab "correct" and true to '40, and '41 cabs.
You will not be using the middle and top holes.

 

These are the brackets referred to above. Available from Drake for $30/pr.

 

Soooooo, your telling me I didn't need to drill and zert all those holes?
For all of you reading this in the future, using a 46 cab on a 40 half ton, you are welcome.

I have had the fenders mocked on the cab and the hole for that L bracket is there as I had that bolted up.

 

All you need is the l bracket hole and the bottom hole you installed

 

Now don't you feel foolish!

 

Yup! I like thinking about the hundreds of holes I welded up in that cab just to turn around and drill some more.

 

Funny how nobody brought up that point until after the fact, guess you have my luck. I did one 40 pick-up for somebody about 15 years ago. It was such a clusterf@#k when it was brought to me, I think I've mentally tuned them out since. Had I a clue or memory about the holes I would have spoke up. The best thing about that job is it's long gone !

 

The fenders were right there, all I had to do was look at them and realize they didn't need all those holes. Oh well, live and learn. At least they are not visible once it is****embled! Then I would be welding them up

 

Yep not visible at all , sorry I thought that was explained in the earlier posts !

 

It probably was and I didnt pay attention. Not the first time that has happened, won;t be the last likely.

 

Well sanding continues. This part of the thread is like watching ice melt (like I would let that happen!).
I applied more primer Saturday and started the 320 process over. I have the bed block sanded inside and out, the cab inside and out, doors and jambs, both front fenders and the drivers rear fender.

Pics don't tell of much progress but my hands and back tell an entirely different story!

The fender stands make it easier at least...and that is not an imperfection in the bottom near the grille! That is where I burned through the primer (again)! I cant keep spraying primer and burning through it so I am going to spray the whole rig in DTM black sealer prior to paint. I have both an epoxy and urethane sealer that say can be applied DTM, recommendations one over the other? I'm a noob at this, I will listen to your advice. Provided you tell me what I want to hear and I can afford it and I want to do it that way. (sounds like most "help me" threads on the HAMB).

This was the absolute worse fender of them all. Right front, affectionately referred to as "the ball peen, whack-a-mole disaster" . I looked for another fender but these fronts are not easy to find. After a million (free) hours of hammering, welding, patching the gaping holes that were cut to access the grille bolts , filing, grinding, grinding (yeah, I said that twice), filler, polyester primer, primer and tons of sanding, this fender is nicer than I thought I could make it with my skill set. It belongs in the Louvre. I've been to the Louvre, this is better than Mona and that armless chick!

If someone runs into my truck they had better aim for the other side or I am going to bust some heads... with a ball peen hammer!

This was the 2nd worse of the bunch. Driver's side rear. Cracks, dents and some needed customizing. I added passenger car tail lights to both rears, making brackets that I welded inside prior to the rhino liner. The tail lights fits like they were supposed to be there....and they are supposed to be there, right?. I also filled the gas filler hole, then used the plasma thingy to cut a new hole for this threaded filler that I also welded in place along with a SS pipe that matches the diameter of the tank inlet. It will hold a polished aluminum flip-cap when finished.

That filler was not fun to do body work and sand around if you haven't already figured that out. I didn't do a lot of custom stuff but I gave the truck a few touches of my own that will set it apart from the masses if one is paying attention. If one is not paying attention then it is one's own fault now isn't it one?

Next up on the jukebox, get that right rear fender and tail gate (uhg, what a complete PITA!) in 320...again, and then start the 400. Now to find a bar and cue the music!

 

Sanding...

You're making memories and at least will be able sit sit back and be proud of your work when it's all over. (I was going to say when the dust settles...plenty more of that to come. )

 

Ya know, I had one of those Trucks not long ago that I regretted selling because it was way nicer than the 53 F-100 I was already up to my neck in. You're starting to make me feel better about watching it leave.

 

In the near future, this will all be in the past, and you can kick back and appreciate the end result.
Your truck will be worth all of this effort you're putting into it..it's going to be a beauty.
Keep on, keeping on.

 

You may find this helpful!

 

After seeing how much work it is, even for a young guy like yourself, I’m leaving mine lumpy.
Maybe I can find a hungry body man.
It is looking good, though.

 

You did say, and you asked me who writes my material?

I love the truck buddy, it is a ton of work but only because I demand too much. I was filling a couple of pock marks on the firewall with filler last night and while I was doing so I thought to myself "WTF are you doing? It's a firewall with a hemi blocking 99% of the view of it"! Thanks for selling it to me but next time, a little less body work

I told my wife the tunnel has been very long, very dusty and very, very bleak but I can see a faint flicker of light at the end as I finally reach the end of this paint job. That or I'm stroking out. I guess either way I'm almost done.

I looked about and apparently all of the painters in the PNW are well fed and not in need of further nourishment! And watch who your calling young! I qualify for senior golf rates next year! I really wish they had senior rates at the paint supply store.

 

I always liked the look of the chrome windshield frame in the 39 trucks. Especially on black trucks where the black rubber and chrome center bar just beg for a bit more chrome. Soooo...

@trad27 had a 39 truck frame on the classifieds that he crated up sent me for a very fair price. I also ordered a 40 seal for a one piece windshield.

I cut the seal in 2, down the middle basically relieving it of the glass retainage and leaving the bit that goes around the pinch weld. To do this I clamped a new razor blade in my vice and pulled the rubber seal through it. I still have all my fingers intact this way. Then installed the rubber as a test fit.

Don't worry about the primer getting a bit*******, I still have another sanding to do prior to paint but this needed to be addressed prior.

Of course I cut it too short on the top in the middle, and I not sure this is the rubber I will use or look around a bit. It would definitely aid in installation (less swearing) to glue in the rubber ahead of time on final****embly.

I wasn't sure if it would fit or not and I was ready to modify it but it fits very well as is. In fact it was a squeeze to fit it in. My plans now are to chrome it, install flat glass from a 39 PU and glue it into the opening on my truck. It will be glued to the rubber pinch weld seal.

You can see above in the corner that the rubber pulled away, that is why I would glue the rubber in a day prior to the frame being installed. I had to really work to compress the rubber to allow the frame to squeeze in. A soft blow mallet set it tight to the rubber.

If you ever wondered if the cab openings are the same on 39-40/41 (or 46 like mine), the answer is yes evidently. No alteration needed other than dropping it off for plating. Of course I am not going to have this open, my wipers are below the windshield so it wouldn't work anyway. No, I just did it for extra chrome and detail. It ought to confuse a few people, if they even notice. I like that kind of stuff. Later!

 

WOW! Another trend setting styling idea from the Pacific NW (for me to copy).
Glad it all worked out.
Saved a BUNCH of work not fabricating the trim.
I need to get one of those frames before the prices sky rocket.....

 

Details, it's all in the details.
Great idea, the extra bright work will play off that Black nicely.

 

Go easy banging on the windshield frame, you can dent the smooth outside skin if you're too enthusiastic. And you know how chrome shows up surface imperfections.