Technical Dropped Tie Rod

Anyone on the HAMB know of someone or a company that makes dropped tie rods to fit the standard 11/16 L&R ends? Thanks

 

ck the speedway sprint car type ends

 

Speedway also lists them for 60’s ford pickups. Lots of places to find them, I think okie joe may make them as well?

lots of threads about this, do a search and it should pop up some more sources

 

Speedway 1948-64 Ford Pickup Truck Dropped Tie Rod Ends (speedwaymotors.com)

 

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. The dropped tie rod ends will run into the wishbone. We need an actual dropped tie rod that is dropped only in the middle to clear the crank pulley. If you saw what is in there you would be scared, some people should not be allowed to own a welder or a hacksaw for that matter. Thanks

 

Remember, that will be a real pain to adjust toe.

 

I’d imagine so. Seems if you need one to clear the pan, you’d have to unbolt everything, make an adjustment, rinse and repeat.

 

Correct, toe will/may be an issue but if you do it right the first time on a solid axle you shouldn't have to do it too often. Actually if the tie rod is dropped an inch or a little more the toe could probably be adjusted the normal way with the car on a lift and the axle hanging. Thanks again to all who are helping.

 

So I was thinking, not always a good thing.
So bend up a say 1/4 inch rod, start with a known length. Here’s the “thinking” part. See if there are 11/16th split adjusters that are used on modern cars. The type you back the nuts off, roll the adjuster. Brings one side in, do the other side as well.
Now who makes them in 11/16ths, probably have to have it fabbed up at the same shop you have the tie made at, you take them a solid bar, they turn the ends and thread them. You bend it up at home. They then bore the ends of a tube and tap the tube with left and right thread ends. You can split it at home and tack on a clamp to tighten it down.
Follow me, or has my thinking gone haywire?

 

@Budget36 That would work although it sounds like a lot of the job farmed out and I don't recall ever seeing the split adjuster in 11/16. Made me wonder if I could buy a tie rod from Speedway longer than needed and with a bunch of heat put my own bends in it. That would be a total of four bends at 30 degrees each to give the drop needed. We could also gusset the bends. There are cars with tube tie rods that have bends in them but probably done cold with some type of mandrel bender. Thoughts?

 

I think the split adjuster in 11/16" is on every 39-48 era drag link that Henry made.

 

Well, I can’t comment on the strength of a dropped tie rod. But if you had/can source tubing that can be tapped on the ID for 11/16th, you could be in business. Or, you’d have to source Tubing/ solid piece that can be bored to accept the inner threads.
If you crawl under a modern vehicle you’ll see some thin wall stuff used.
Just offering an idea. Personally I’d use the dropped tie
Rod ends, why won’t they work out for you?

 

There ya go. Off the shelf part or something to source.

Are they threaded on both ends?

 

That is a good idea, will look into it. Thanks

 

I've heard that older jeeps use dropped tie rods w/ 11/16"threads.

 

I've never seen any dropped tie rod ends for older Jeeps, the Jeep tie rod end used on rods is the one with the eye for a drag link to connect to for when you don't have one on your steering arm.

I'd think that a shop with the right bender could bend up a tie rod with the right drop and thread it with left and right hand threads though. That would beat the tar out of cutting the ends off one and welding in some pieces of heavy plate to do the drop while probably cutting up two tie rods like they did back when.

 

What I did, Ron

 

Thanks, That is excellent and exactly what we need to do. I ***ume the center is solid 11/16 rod, how did you bend it? Cold, heat, pipe bender? Thanks again, Ron

 

If you go with solid rod in the center; I would use 7/8 CR with the ends turned down and threaded before bending. Heat and bend around a fixture to get the sharp and consistent bends. A practice bend in an extra piece will help get the length right.
If you choose to use Ford drag link sleeves; I probably have some you could have for the postage cost.

 

Rod is 3/4" cold rolled. 11/16-18 Left and Right hand threads. Bent with heat. Regards, Ron

 

Thanks to both of the above, that is the direction I will go with this. @RICH B The practice bend is a good idea, chances are if I get two pieces the practice piece will be fine and I'll have a spare. Thanks again.

 

1932 Ford Tudor Sedan So-Cal Las Vegas Rat Rod TV Car (Sorry Sold) - YouTube


11.45
12.40

 

Thanks to all who have helped with this project. It's looking like Okie Joe is going to help us out with the tie rod we need. You guys are the best. Ron

 

I just listed some 37-39 Willys dropped tie rod ends in the cl***ifieds

 

this is the smartest way I have seen to do this. Very nice!!