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Technical Sumitt paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by birdman1, Feb 26, 2022.

  1. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,686

    birdman1
    Member

    I bought a gallon of the summit 2k paint. I also got the matching primer and the catalyst. Should I block sand the primer before applying the paint? Its the high build primer. How many coats of primer and the paint? I'm used to using enamel. Thanks Henry scheffler Harlan Iowa
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,374

    Budget36
    Member

    I’ve always been told high build has to be sanded, it’s made to take care of small imperfections.
     
    seb fontana likes this.
  3. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,759

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Yes, block the primer. 2 heavy or 3 medium coats, the smoother you lay it the easier the blocking will be. A pal just had decent luck with summit urethane. Just be sure you have enough. Would **** to run out of mail order paint. If you're going to cut and buff you want 4 nice smooth coats, and over 1 color is best so coverage is even and easy. Good luck...
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  4. macdave06
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 44

    macdave06
    Member

    You definitely want to block your high build primer and then spray some sealer before the color. Get some spray on guide coat and refer to the tech sheets for your sealer to see what grit to finish in. Some hide better than others. Pick a sealer in a similar shade to your color ie: black for dark colors, white for light colors.
     
  5. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,903

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Dark sealers will make red shift toward maroon but a white sealer will make it pop. Best to spray out several colors of sealer on test panels and then top coat them and then look at them under NATURAL SUN LIGHT and you will see a difference then choose the one you really like
     
    belair likes this.
  6. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,409

    Rand Man
    Member

    Yes, the point of high-build primer is to even out a rough surface. You still need to use a self- etching primer on exposed steel.
     
  7. Epoxy or etching primer on bare metal than once cured you can scuff and then do the high build. It sprays real nice and easy to sand. Follow the directions online that Summit has. They were easy to follow and everything worked out well. Sprayed a sealer then to base coat and clear.
     

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  8. blazedogs
    Joined: Sep 22, 2014
    Posts: 549

    blazedogs
    Member

    Little off the subject I,m not pushing companies or manufacturers. My opinion and some local club members. A paint and its components that are overlooked that is quality & less expensive than most are bought from Summit Racing. Do some of your own checking & inquiring .. Gene
     
  9. 2k high build is for minor surface imperfection removal.
    Unless it says it’s direct to metal(DTM) it requires an epoxy or etch underneath for bare metal adhesion.
    It’s is designed to be sanded before painting.
     
  10. macdave06
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 44

    macdave06
    Member

    If anybody wants more info also. Unless they've changed manufacturers, summits paint line is made by kirker. I can't speak for their basecoat other than some satin black, but the primer is decent. The clear I've used on a couple guitars but those don't sit in the elements either.
     
  11. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,686

    birdman1
    Member

    Thanks alot for the advice and experience. I really want to get a nice paint job on the 56 ford pickup
     
  12. Moedog07
    Joined: Apr 11, 2011
    Posts: 520

    Moedog07
    Member

    I have used the Summit Racing single stage paint products. Works as it should and didn't break the bank. I'd buy/use them again.
     
  13. vtwhead
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 5,307

    vtwhead
    Member

    The VOC line at Summit is from Sherwin Williams, Kirker manufactures the rest.
    Use the sealer recommended before color and make sure any bare metal has an etching primer. Any shiny steel that shows itself when blocking the primer needs to be etched.
    Pay close attention to your temps as outlined on your hardner.
     
  14. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,759

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    And now for a word from our sponsor, Etch-a-Sketch;)

    Ok, seriously tho. Etching primers have some specific duties and work by having an acid component in them. Some etching primers can act a perfect release agent for some surfacing primers. Most notably polyester base products (including bondo). Etch primer is NOT the end-all do-all that it can touted as. It's a convenient way to create a mechanical bond for the product applied after. Sanding to an acceptable grit is fine. Some etch primers have aggressive solvents and will reward you with the dreaded "bullseye" after a few months if used to spot in bare metal. Bare metal showing after blocking? You gonna seal? Then you'll be fine. Maybe give that bare spot a little 240 grit rub if it looks too big or too shiney. I went nearly 30 years before I ever etched anything because the products weren't the greatest back in the day, mostly an industrial/production product with little to no use in custom finishing. Don't let avoiding etch primer keep you awake. MECHANICAL BOND can be had if blasted, sanded or also chemically with metal prep solutions.

    We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...:cool:
     
    alanp561, loudbang and metlmunchr like this.

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