Projects New Owner of the 1954 Ford “Mint Julep”

No need to remove the canister, you just need to "re-clock" the distributor. You are a tooth too far advanced on the camshaft. If you've never done this, you may want to get someone who has to help. The distributor turns CCW so you need to remove the hold down and clamp, lift the distributor until it is almost free of the cam gear and rotate the rotor CCW until the gear advances one tooth. It is a bit of a "feel" thing. When you drop the distributor back down you should notice that the rotor is now a bit close to the firewall than it originally was. This allows you to rotate the distributor body CCW and gets the vacuum canister quite a bit further away from the obstruction.

There is one thing to watch out for, sometimes the oil pump drive will not let the distributor drop all the way into it's normal running position. It's not always a problem with Ford distributors, but it can happen. Do not use the distributor clamp to pull it down. If it won't drop into position, you need to crank the motor over while applying a light pressure to the distributor body. Once the oil pump drive aligns it should drop all the way down into position. Like I said, if you have never done this, you probably need to get someone who has to help you.

 

Thanks so much. Yeah we can handle that. Should I leave that second canister plugged up or would you recommend finding somewhere to connect it?

 

We know it is running a 56 distributor change the gear and go. Might be just the pictures it looks like there might be a negative camber issue

 

Absolutely beautiful car, you done good son!

I can't imagine why the car has been through so many hands in a short period of time, if my name was on the****le I wouldn't ever see another owner. HRP

 

Well it could be plugged because the diaphragm is leaking. If it will hold vacuum, I recommend connecting it. It was connected at one time.

 

Have to admit, not a fan of the "Low Life" striping everywhere, or the new stance. That can be put back, though.

 

Totally agree. If it wasn’t in one shot I’d try to remove it. I’m fine with everything other than the low life*****. It’s not super noticeable in person thankfully and the stance is easily adjustable so that’s good.

 

It’s hot rod flatz single stage so I’m afraid it will eat that primer right off.

 

Do you know if its possible to separate the two vacuum diaphragms so it’s just a single? If I can’t separate them is there a single diaphragm canister that I could find to install onto my current distributor? If I had a single canister vacuum advance I would be able to advance the timing probably just enough instead of pulling the distributor out and clocking it.

 

I'm not sure how much this might help, but years ago I had a '55 Ford wagon with a 312 out of a '56 Merc. A friend gave me a 4-barrel carb and distributor from a '57, and when I put them on the 312 it made a HUGE difference. Car was much quicker and ran better. This was about 50 years ago, so I don't remember much detail, but it was a worthwhile upgrade on my engine.
Nice '54, by the way. I like the Packard taillights, although I'd prefer to take the skirts off.

 

No you can't just replace the dual canister with a single. If you want the single you need a 1957 or newer distributor.

 

oh ok. What else do I have to replace to upgrade to the 57 distributor? I have the 60s oil pump and 13 tooth cam gear in it now.

 

Killer score! As for advice on dialing in the Y Block, maybe @Y-Blockguy could really help out.

 

Before you do anything else, please replace that clear plastic fuel filter with a steel one. Apparently the newer gas we have to live with makes the plastic brittle.

 

When I was given the '57 4bbl and distributor, I was told that I needed to use them both. I guess the vacuum advance provided by the '57 carb is different and is necessary to suit the '57 dizzy.

 

That would be awesome. Really trying to get this 239 tuned right. It’s super lazy / sluggish. Sounds like it’s retarded but can’t advance it enough before the double vacuum canister on the distributor hits the throttle linkage. Checked timing and it’s around 2 degrees at idle and 5 once you give it throttle. The carb likes to backfire if you give it too much throttle too fast. If you leave the choke half way it won’t backfire but the car has no power when you’re driving it with the choke half way. So it’s a combo of the motor needing to be advanced more but I’m not sure if I should leave that distributor in and remove it, clock it, reinstall it to get more advance out of it, or replace it with a 57+ but not sure what else needs to be replaced to do that. And then I’m****uming I’ll have to reset the carbs air/fuel mixture once timing is set.

 

Just try exactly what Jaracer recommended. It's free and should take a half hour.

 

As I said in post 33 you already have a 1956 distributor which the car is already set up for. If you use a 239 gear from the distributor that's in the car now on a 57 up distributor You should be good to go. Vacuum to the carb can stay the same.

 

yeah I think before I start buying or sourcing parts I would like to try clocking it first to see how that goes.

 

We've done the one tooth clocking thing on other engines before. Many times hot rods need a bit of clearance from the canisters or clips on the distributor, and this is a simple fix.

But, you might want to also look for the 57 and up distributor as well for future replacement. You can even buy rebuilds on Rockauto.

 

yes I think I’m going to opt for the 57 swap. What specific make / model can I search for and would they have the entire distributor on rock auto or just replacement parts?

 

Check out Ted Eaton’s page - he’s got the info - https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2010...ey-94-two-barrel-for-late-model-distributors/

 

Oh, and sweet ride! I’m sure you’ll do justice to the original vision.

 

Cool thanks. I didn’t realize i can’t just upgrade the distributor to the 57+ and connect the vacuum line to the back of the Holly. If I were to upgrade to a new stomberg 97 with an added vacuum port would that modification still apply?

 

I’d try this first, if too far advanced, then put the wires back and pull the distributor.

 

forgot to say we actually tried this yesterday with no success. Good idea but didn’t help unfortunately.

 

Ya did swell

 

Dang. Was it too far advanced?