My 38 has a typical '70s/80s chevy tilt steering column with the steering lock that has the big wings. I want rid of the key and molding around it so its just a cylinder with the tilt and signals arms protruding only. Anyone done or seen it done clean? My dream would be a thin cylinder to slide over it and 10 minutes with my bench grinder.
Many moons ago shaved the key off a tilt column as I wanted to keep the key on the dash in my '63 pickup. You need to dis***emble the steering column at least to the point of being able to remove the "sleeve" in question (whenever I get into a column I just go all the way, cleaning, checking and lubing everything, also don't forget to put loc***e on the four swivel knuckle bolts). Back to the sleeve; Remove the lock cylinder, cut off the offending portion of the lock boss with a sawsall, then grind the lock boss area so it is slightly below the surrounding area (in other works, "dish out" the area where you cut off the lock boss) Degrease the former lock boss area (I use a small bristle brush and lacquer thinner) cap off the inside of the lock boss hole with tape then fill the hole with pieces of fibergl*** mat and resin. Grind and repeat until the hole is filled, sand and prime. I did mine at least twenty years ago, hasn't cracked yet. Upon re-***embly, always put one part on, test the column, then move on to the next part, if you try to get it done all at once I promise you'll be taking it back apart.
I've done it. Cut off boss and reshape. Make a stepped recess below the finish surface then JB weld a plate onto the step created. Next day use body filler, shape, prime, block out then paint. No sign of being plugged. It's been nearly 20 years.
If it is pre dimmer switch on the column it can clean up pretty easy. I agree with taking it apart far enough that II have that part of the housing out where I can clean it up and work on it. I used to have to take them apart on a regular basis to tighten up the three screws that hold the thing together because short fat wife would use the steering wheel to pull herself up so she could reach the key or the dash. I'm thinking that those three screws that take a torx bit are the same ones that hold the part that holds the lock cylinder. It seems like I had to pop the lock cylinder out to get to one of the screws every time. I don't know if I have one left worth playing with but I'll take a look and see if I can do a step by step on taking one apart. That's if I have one left as I tossed a bunch of them in the last load of s**** I hauled after keeping some of them for 30 years.
Even the ones with the dimmer switch should be easy. Just remember to take out the lock pin and rack with the rod. You are going to need some special tools also. Lock plate depressor, and a pivot pin puller. In my glory days I could rebuild a GM tilt column in 10 minutes start to finish replacing shiftbowl and lock housing and side cover. That included pulling the steering wheel. I would paint all parts first before starting and and pull all needed parts and tools.
Would it be possible/easier to swap an early/mid sixty's Impala tilt steering column? Smaller O.D and no key, only tilt and turn signal lever's. Just a thought...
I put one of those columns in my '47 Plymouth way back in the 70's. I'm keeping it that way because that's the era the car is from.
Try to find one that is not in a running car..... I had one from a '66 Impala with floor shifter....45 years ago.
I cut off the key buldge on a 70s column and just fibergl***ed that hole and voila ..of course remove the anti lock disc or plunger.....was easy peasy....those vintage 60 s tilt columns are hens teeth today......
Just remove the locking plunger pin and related components. That's what I did when I shaved the key boss off a '70s GM tilt columns. As others have, I used JB Weld and a piece of aluminum to fill the hole where the key used to be. I took mine completely apart and welded the four bolts mounting flange to a length of steel tubing to make a nicer installation out of it. Don't forget to loc***e the four bolts!
I hate skinny people from those nostalgic photos. And the term "fat fendered", too much body shaming going on. We need a "me too" movement up in this place. The French would never stand for this! Liberté de la roue inclinable
True, and if one were to file three more skipped tooth's @ 90 degrees of one another the retainer can be indexed. any where so horn contact falls more conveniently where one would like it.
The column in my avatar is a key delete style. Which I like because the ignition switch is on the dash.
Thanks all, I am thinking a replacement Impala or van is easier since there is so much else to do, however of all the ideas I have hears I would probably wrap the entire cir***ference with aluminum and JB weld use some hose clamps to hold it in place till it drys. . I want to rewire it for a key tucked under the dash close to the original location on the steering column mount and a period correct starter ****on. Nothing like a separate starter ****on to set the context for a trip in a vintage car. I want to find a cool aftermarket banjo style 13-14" wheel and get a column that matches the diameter of the wheel hub. Not a fan of billet anything in a vintage hotrod. WOuld like to keep this one a period piece.
the locking plate might have to remain...memory sometimes is tricky..removing the plunger would do it...
Get a Chevy Van column, I believe '68 thru '74. Key was on the dash those years. They had tilt column I have used three of them over the years. '40 Ford Pickup '31 Model A (current project) O/T '70 C-10
The Jalopy Journal
