Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical nailhead dual point distributor information needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by atch, Mar 12, 2022.

  1. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    These pix are of a Delco-Remy dual point distributer that I bought (somewhere; swapmeet, etc.???) many years ago.

    My 401 is currently at a shop getting rebuilt.

    Note: I don't have the knowledge, tools, expertise, experience, etc., to do the rebuild myself; as much as I'd like to.

    The numbers on the tag are 1110861 6D3. I couldn't get a good pic of the numbers and had to use a magnifying gl*** to even read them.

    Googling 1110861 6D3 I strike out. I believe the 6D3 to be a date code, so I removed it.

    Googling 1110861 you get 1110861 - Google Search, which is mostly some sort of red fingernail polish. That's not gonna help very many folks on here.

    Anyway, by using the number and various combinations including GM or Delco Remy or etc., it appears that this MIGHT be a 1956 nailhead distributor.

    I'm a bit skeptical about Buick installing a dual point dizzy in a 1956 322 engine, but maybe they did.

    So here's the point of this thread: does anyone know for certain if this distributor will fit/work in a 401 engine?

    If it will work are there any suggestions as to where to get points/cap/rotor for it? Local parts house? Rockauto? Centerville? Other?

    I tried to get the tape measure in the photos such that you could see the dimensions but the camera angle distorted it badly.


    20220310_214108.jpg 20220310_214118.jpg 20220310_214245.jpg 20220310_214304.jpg 20220310_214331.jpg
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,376

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    Mike....my old speed catalogs shows that 1953 to 66 nailhead (not aluminum V8 engines) can use the same distributor. As for as the dual point angle...id bet that's a Mallory dual point breaker plate conversion setup. I can see stamped writing on the breaker plate but can't make out what it says. It already has a Mallory condenser on it by the way..
     
  3. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Well; you've certainly got my attention! I brought it into the house and raided sweetie's Q-Tip stash. I got enough cleaned off to read "set points .018" and the word "Mallory". There is more writing, but the points are in the way of being able to clean it enough to be able to read it. Tomorrow I'll take the points out of it so I can clean the breaker plate and read/photograph whatever it says. I'll report back here tomorrow afternoon.

    I never noticed the writing on the top of the condenser before, but it says "Mallory Electric Corp Detroit Mich USA" on it.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  4. When you are able to read the numbers, contact me as I have some N.O.S. Mallory breaker plates with the dual points. I will check the numbers when you get back to me. nick.
     
  5. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,257

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The conversion kits included the condenser. I bought one for my '51 Ford in 1959. I just bought a couple of NOS Mallory dual point conversion kits off of eBay, and they both included "Trash Can" condensers. Curiously, they have stainless steel bodies, not br*** like all of the others I have seen. They do have the Mallory "verbiage" on the top.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Just p***ing through the house. It'll be this evening before I get the chance to do any more with this.

    Thanx so far.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Well; @nickthebandit; here we go. The Mallory number is 25515-AR.H.

    (note: it sure looks like there is a period after the R and H, but not the A; this determined by using a fairly high powered magnifying gl***)

    20220312_193950.jpg
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. Have you checked the shaft ,and bushings for wear or run out, it is a 50 year old part ,before you hunt down parts , after all the engine needed rebuilding !!!!!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,098

    greybeard360
    Member

    according to my old Motors manual, that is a 56 Buick distributor housing.
     
    sunbeam and loudbang like this.
  10. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Actually I haven't, although it "feels" tight. Also note that the distributer and engine came from two different places. The engine really doesn't need to be rebuilt, but I'm 70 years old. Our plan is to be able to drive the wheels off of the Model A that the 401 is going into for the rest of our lives while being trouble-free and dependable.

    I could use the original single points Buick distributor, but this dual point unit fascinates me. The original distributor is always available for use. That original distributor is currently at the rebuilders' and I'll put this unit in when the engine comes back; IF it turns out to be good.

    Also I've been using the term "rebuild" and "rebuilder", but in actuality he's only dis***embling it, checking for wear, replacing parts if necessary, and re***embling. More of freshening up more than rebuild. I bought this engine from a machinist friend about 25 years ago. Someone had brought it to him for something minor and never came back to get it. The machinist had dis***embled it and declared the bottom end to be OK. But it has sat for all those years so we're going to hot tank it, paint it, and re***emble it. If it needs boring and pistons so be it. Now, though, it'll have all new bearings, rings, cam, lifters, valve job, oil/water/fuel pumps, etc.

    The engine is probably in better condition than this distributor.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2022
    loudbang likes this.
  11. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,546

    Fordors
    Member

    The points in the distributor are not Mallory, the correct Mallory point set is p/n 24907. Naturally it will work with Delco style points but Mallory’s can be found.
     
    Paul and loudbang like this.
  12. Atch, I have an N.O.S. in the box dual point plate ***embly with that part number. The box is shabby, but the parts are new. give me your address, and I will send it to you free of charge.
     
    Paul, egads, ClayMart and 1 other person like this.
  13. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Thanx for the information. I didn't know this. Where can I find information about rotor, cap, etc., parts numbers? When I Googled Summit, NAPA, etc., it looked like I have to know the actual part number that I need.


    Thanx for the most generous offer. PM sent.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,257

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since that is a conversion plate, the actual distributor is stock Buick. Therefore, it uses stock Buick cap and rotor. Someone already identified it as a 1956. It should be easy to find the parts that fit. When I need part numbers, I go to a number of places, Rock Auto being the one I use most. It looks like the cap is Standard motor products DR427 and the rotor is their number DR306.

    Also, the Delco points are probably as good as original Mallory's, easier to find, and cheaper. If you don't keep the points, write down their number.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    I sort of figured that but wasn't sure.

    That was me in the original post; it's what it appears to be based on my Google searches but surely would like confirmation.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. vtwhead
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 5,307

    vtwhead
    Member

    loudbang likes this.
  17. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,763

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Are the cam lobes that operate the points pitted and rusty? If they are it will wear the rubbing blocks of the points rapidly.
     
  18. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Thanx; I saved the pix for reference.

    I'll have to check this evening.. If they are I'll have to use the other single point distributer I have. It's never been stored without the cap like this one has.
     
    loudbang and Moriarity like this.
  19. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,257

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OR, you could install the Mallory conversion unit into the other distributor.
     
    loudbang and Moriarity like this.
  20. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,982

    Paul
    Editor

    I dig this old tech,
    If it were me I'd clean that distributor up and put the breaker plate from nickthebandit in it.
    Or like suggested put the new breaker plate in a better stock distributor.

    I'm running a very similar setup in my '58 Olds engine, stock distributor with Mallory dual point breaker plate and condenser, Moroso mechanical advance kit and Accel adjustable vacuum can.
    It took a bit of finesse to get all dialed in but it works way better than the stock single point setup.

    PXL_20220312_182728814.jpg
     
    Desoto291Hemi, loudbang and Moriarity like this.
  21. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,257

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As long as we're showing Old Mallory's, Here's an Olds distributor with a Mallory conversion. Since the second set of points lives where the stock condenser was originally mounted, it must be mounted externally Because of this, just any old condenser won't do. That's where the "Trash Can" comes in.
    Condenser2.jpg

    I was going to use that until I found a real Mallory on eBay. This one is kind of unique, as it has a four lobe cam and the points operate independently. You need a special Malloy coil with two primary windings and one primary winding. It looks just like a "FlashFire" coil except it has three primary terminals, not two. The system functions as two independent four cylinder ignition systems with each set of points energizing one primary winding, causing a spark to be generated in the single secondary winding. It functions like a "poor man's" dual coil. Because each set of points operates independently, it needs two condensers. (Good coils are VERY hard to find.)
    Rocket.JPG
     
    loudbang and Paul like this.
  22. krgdowdall
    Joined: Apr 3, 2015
    Posts: 142

    krgdowdall
    Member
    from Alberta

    The 55 & 56 Buick used the same points, rotor and cap as the 55 & 56 chev V8, so they should be fairly easy to source. The Mallory conversion I believe used the same point sets. If you locate a 57 and up distributor dual point kits were also available, if you can find one. The later distributor is similar set up to the Chev with the external points adjust. It has the advance weights under the rotor. Weight kits for centrifugal advance and also adjustable Vacuum advance unit, make for easy tuning. But it may not be the look you are after.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  23. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    Thanx man. Once again there is proof positive that folks on the H.A.M.B. are the salt of the earth. As you won't take any ca$h for this I'll pay it forward the next opportunity I get.
     
    loudbang, 427 sleeper and Fordors like this.
  24. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    @Moriarity and all,

    I just went out and checked the cam lobes. They do have some rust on them. Can they be polished or should I give up on this distributor?

    Note; this project is taking a long time. Not complaining, I'm just slow. The 401 is at the machinist right now getting bored,
     
  25. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,763

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    any roughness will quickly wear the plastic rubbing block on the points. lets see a picture of the rusty cam...
     
  26. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    The last pic in my original post shows it somewhat. I'll go take better pix and be back in a few minutes.
     
  27. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    atch
    Member

    OK, here are the pix. The "worn" spots on the points of the cam are from me turning the shaft by hand to see if it had any play, which it seems to not have. I thought of hitting a lobe with a Scotchbrite but didn't want to give any false impressions. I can do that if it will help. I took 4 pix so that all 8 lobes show up.

    The white is dust from the limestone gravel road I live on. Everything here gets coated with it.

    20230222_202700.jpg
    20230222_202728.jpg
    20230222_202747.jpg
    20230222_202816.jpg
     
  28. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,763

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    man, that looks rougher than a night in jail. trouble is if you take a scotchbrite to it and remove any material the dwell will possibly be different from cylinder to cylinder. If there is any roughness on the cam it will wear the rubbing block on the points rapidly.. Better use your other distributor
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.