Hello. After my p***age in 12v I noticed that my ignition coil heats even engine when stopped, what can it come from??Thank you !!!
It starts directly with the first key, I wonder if it is not because of my lighting attempts that the coil heats up where it has nothing to do?
Remove the dist wire from the coil and let it sit. If it doesn't heat up, re-connect it and turn the engine so the points are open let it sit and see if it heats up then. It seems like what is happening, would cause the battery to be low or dead, setting over night.
Since he converted to 12 volts READ #4 & #5 here https://darksidersrealm.forumotion....lt-positive-ground-to-12-volt-negative-ground.
So here! when I leave the battery plugged in everything is normal! The coil is not hot, but as soon as I put the ignition key the coil heats up!!
Have you checked the spark plugs and ignition coil wires? If the plugs are faulty it can lead to over heating. Brittle wires can cause arching in the winding having them overheat. I would also check the resistance wire to the coil.
The spark plug wires are new but not the car spark plugs, I bought yesterday a 3 ohm ignition coil to see! I’m doing the trials this afternoon! my old ignition coil was a 1.5 ohm
This is from Pertronix “resisted style” coil meaning it has an internal resistor. Some are marked and some are not. The only way to know for sure is to check with a meter. To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance. Six & four cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of resistance As to heating. If the coil is oil filled the oil is used to cool it and sometimes if it is laying on its side or top side down it may overheat. I had this problem on my Model A's with older coils. When I switched to a modern coil they ran cool in all positions as I don't think they are oil filled anymore but I'm not positive.
Otherwise, there is one wire that comes from the igniter’s head - and another wire that comes to him is the + one?
I was considering a Pertronix distributor for my car, but they were way muddy on which coil went with what distributor. I'd verify that you have the correct coil.
2 Questions. 1.When you converted the car to 12 volts did you keep the points. If you did a ballast resistor would been needed to lower the volt to the coil when running. A stock 50’s 12 volt Ford applied 12 volts to the coil when starting only. 2. A Pertronix II ignition can run with or without a ballast resister. From personal experience I would use their coil and a ballast resistor. When originally bought their system I checked the internet net for problems with their system and the only thing I found was coil problems but non using theirs. I called their tech line and asked about the use of the resistor and was told either way but voltage to the plugs would be slightly lower using it. I’ve now had it on my engine for 7 years with the coil mounted on its side. It’s never missed a beat and the plugs always look great. I have never used a 12 volt coil with a built in resistor to lower the voltage and would not recommend one; a point style ignitions always had a byp*** to give 12 volts for starting. One of these coils would negate this feature.
I use a coil with a built in resistor in my 312 powered 54. Zero stating problem with it starting (or any other). Engine has been rebuild with a performance cam, stock 57 ignition.
I’m not saying I would not work. I personally want the added voltage when starting. Both Ford and GM had this feature for a reason which may or may not ever affect me. After all we had 6 volt cars for many many years.
I will then test my pertronix coil with its kit this afternoon, to see if it heats up too! and I will keep you informed!
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