Flathead update: The machining is done and complete. Valve assembly is installed and my L-100 cam fitted. Valve lash set at .016 spring pressure with Zeyher springs set at 65 lbs. So far so good. Today we will mock up one piston and check for Valve and piston clearance to gives an idea if these old Edelbrock heads will clear. I know they have been milled but how much I don't know yet. I know you can play with head gasket thickness. I currently have .062" gaskets. Might have to go thicker???
The engine is now a short block so it was time to check the head clearance. Egge 3.312 bore and Merc crank with a decked block and high compression Edelbrock heads with a thin clean up rendered .046" on the piston and .015" on the valve. Both dimensions were with out a head gasket. Maybe not ideal on the piston squelch but it works for me.
The engine builder and I discussed what we were going to try and accomplish on the test stand. First and foremost will be to see how well it will run after breaking in the cam. High zinc oil was added to the oil pan to help in that area. Retorque the heads and watch the oil and temperature. We filled it with water to check the used water pumps for leaks. Sure enough one leaked at the bottom of the pulley. With no rebuild kit on hand we swapped it out for another one. No leaks. Next we decided or I should say I agreed to break the engine in with one Stromberg to eliminate any multiple carb tuning issues. Rich thought it best to keep it simple at first. He is not a fan of Strombergs anyway. He said he never saw one that didn't leak. We will see. I covered earlier in my build of the carbs to address the leaking issues..... We can always play with the 3x2 setup once it's running well and timed properly to 24 degrees advanced. The Mallory distributor is an mechanical advance unit without any vacuum. It wouldn't work with multiple carbs anyway. The advance springs are adjustable with locking stops to hold the total advance where you wish. A very nice tuning feature for sure in this application. I know it doesn't look like much now for the start up but trust me it will look better when installed in the model A with all its speed goodies. Fire in the hole tomorrow!
Good oil pressure. No major water leaks except water pump dripped a little again. Timing held at 24 degs advanced. The sbc converted distributor with the Pertronix unit worked flawlessly. Throttle response was crisp with one two barrel. The L-100 cam isn't too wicked but just right for a street cruiser. No smoke.....Can't ask for more. It made my day! Time to bust it down.
It looks like there is a crack in the block by #1 cylinder. What did you do with that? Or is that just an illusion.
Yes there was a crack starting in between #1 and #2 cylinder. We ended up pinning it to keep it from spreading. You can see it in the picture.
The flathead made it home safely in the garage. We left the stock intake on since it had the lifting hook already on it. Once in the car I will swap it out for the 3x2. Then the fun will start!!!!!!
What did I learn today? When installing a V8 in a model A you will always find something in the way to cause some problems especially if you don't want firewall modifications or crossmember trimming. That's why we mock it up first. The two things I didn't check out was the front pulley and the electrical oil pressure sending unit mounted straight up off the back of the block. Yeah it hits the firewall where the toe board joins with a flange I couldn't find a single big groove pulley with the timing marks. So I had to trim the outer pulley off to clear the front spring perch. It's just enough to get a belt on. The sending unit could be installed with a 90 deg elbow or just go with a mechanical gauge. That's what I should have done.
The elbow did the trick! I had some time today to install the lake pipes and install the clutch linkage to see how much leg pressure I will need with the Schiefer 10" clutch. It would be fine if I was 45 years younger. The pedal is quite hard to push. I started looking into the pedal ratio. With about 10.25" of pedal length and another 4.25" on the transmission lever = 14.50". The clutch fork is maybe 2.125" I am guessing. So 14.5÷2.125 = about 7.0/1 which is pretty standard I believe if my thinking is correct. I used to know this stuff. Regardless it isn't going to work. So what is an old man to do? Lengthen the transmission arm of course. I had some bar stock laying around and made up an extension with one hole to bolt it to and a second hole an 1.50" higher. That made the linkage now straight inline with the pedal. A little weld to keep it from turning and I gave it another go. What a difference an 1.5" makes. I still seem to have enough travel before the pedal hits the floor but driving it will tell more.
Thanks brEad Had I known this before hand I would have done a nicer job extending the clutch arm but being in the car already made that impossible. It didn't want to come off either. Thanks again for following along for the ride.
With a 3x2 you have a couple of options. 1. Side mount the generator with brackets readily available. With a 8ba the water inlet interfers a little. 2. Power Gen's shortened alternator to look like a generator fits stock location but very expensive. Would be my first choice. 3. Alternator for the more budget minded. Modified to fit saddle clamp or side mount. Doesn't have any period correctness in my case. I would also like to run a quick change too but $$$$. Hope that helps.
Yes, big help. I didn't know the shortened one would work. I just noticed that one yesterday but had no idea it would work. Thanks
IMO... use one you can get almost anywhere... can't get the funky one overnight from napa in every town... buddy just went through this... had to buy a farm tractor alt. as it was the only thing he could make fit without major surgery,
Sloppy Jalopies has a good point on roadside repairs. Mine is a std GM alternator. You can buy it anywhere. Just swap out the pulley. The belt is a std 5/8" × 57" NAPA unit too.
53 stude, i sure love your roadster! Great thread, thank you for taking the time to photo and post it. I especially loved the body assembly details! Thanks again!
You are welcome. I like doing it. A lot of hamers have helped me with their posts and pictures. Its how I can give back.
Awesome project and thread covering many skills. Excellent photos and descriptions throughout with prompt answers to the many questions. I'm also looking forward to seeing it on the road, but the journey you have taken us on is top notch!
View attachment 5380513 Here are some updated pictures of the roadster nearing completion. All that is left is gas line and wiring. I am pretty proud of my old Schlitz beer can for a puke tank held in place by some vintage baleing wire. Enjoy!!!!! View attachment 5380438 View attachment 5380439 View attachment 5380440 View attachment 5380441 View attachment 5380440
Thanks for your kind words. Your a great group of guys. Since I have your attention I have a question about the lakester headers. Silver currently or black? I think the silver is too contrasting to the barn find look or do I just wait until they burn off a little? I used VHT paint. Any input is welcome.
I think that I would let that paint burn and see what it looks like. I kinda like the contrast with the fenders. Easy to change later. Project is looking great.
It's spring again here in WI. So it's time to push the old hot rod out in the natural light for a look see. It sets a little lower with the complete weight of the engine in. I like the stands.
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