Boys due to an unfortunate sequence of events that I was not able to deflect a customer has dropped a dis***embled 235 Chevy engine in my shop. It came from a 1954 Chevy 4 door rust bucket & I have a question about the front main bearing Cap. It seems to have a two bolt threaded flange cast to it that looks like the oil pan sealed to, which is broken off. Any Yall seen this happen before? What bolts to this flange? I found one bolt & a lock plate that fits the bolt pattern in the cap flange in the "Buckets" of parts left at my disposal. I am thinking this could be Brazed back together. Also, this engine has a Red Neoprene rear seal where I thought there should be a Rope type seal. And yet another also the owner used two of the longer head bolts to transport the block / crank ***y & promptly bent them. And the front mounting plate where the gear oiler protrudes has had a hack try to weld it back into the plate with a wire welder, with predictable results. Oh well I guess I'll be seeing Yall over on the Parts Wanted page... I haven't had my hands on a 235 in 50 yrs, since I owned my very 1st car, a Pink & White '57 210 two door sedan! Thanks Andy
That’s also the rear main cap? If so, once you source a new one, the block will need to be align honed/bored.
You'll still need to check for proper alignment/size when replacing the cap. Even when switching from bolts to studs, it's sometimes necessary to align hone/bore.
Tell that knucklehead to come get his engine and take his business somewhere else, that is one customer you can't afford to work for.
Wow ! Sounds like you got a can o worms there . customer took it apart ? Are you billing him to source these parts along with said parts ? entire 235’s can be had for anywhere from free to a couple hindered bucks complete and running . You and him will be miles ahead to source another engine and either use his for parts or the replacement engine for parts then trying to source individual parts .
Timing gear cover. Bolts heads are inside the pan, not outside.Whoever took it apart didn't know that, just removed all the TC bolts and grabbed a great big screwdriver (pry bar) and/or BFH. Just braze or weld with Ni rod as it has no critical load down there. Just be sure to have it on a good flat surface when welding.
The cam plate goes on first then the timing gear cover. GMC’s were that way too with the cap screws on the inside and nuts on the outside. 5/16”.. I always threaded the main cap for 3/8-16’s and used header flange cap screws and no nuts. Still do.
Yep, most "mechanics" today don't know about those two little bolts. My good friend had a high dollar restorer do his 235", got it back in the truck about 2 yrs later and had a heck of an oil leak. Took it back to the guy and after 6 months, he still could not figure it out. He called me to vent about the guy, and I told him to tell the guy where to look to fix the problem. One day later, problem solved.
Just direct him to a half decent mouse motor, and tell him it's the best you can do for what he gave you. wink wink Sorry you can't just gamble with your good reputation. There's no way I would allow him to stay ignorant of his folly. ( I may act like a nice guy. Mostly it's an act ) I apologize in advance, can't help it.
OK thanks guys. A little background- This man is about 80 yrs old & has two model As, a 57, 55 & this 54. I overhauled one the model As carbs & when I took it back he said "Andy, since your here can you set the points in my 54 for me?" And now the engine is in my shop. #6 rings stuck, broken main cap, distributor rebuild, 7 valves stuck, head bolts bent, gear oiler toast, 6 bent pushrods & rear rocker shaft broke in two! Head's at the shop, I got the distributor repaired, gotta have a clutch & flywheel surfaced. Man, I gotta learn to say NO! But I'm getting better at saying NO! He's gotta Mercedes sporty car of some type been at a shop for a year & mechanic gave up & called him to come get it. Then owner decides that he wants to SBC the car & runs out & buys a '57 283. He's got a set of universal side mounts & he had a funny look when I told him he wasn't gonna be able to use them. That's when he asked if I wanted to take on this project for him...Oh Hell No!!!
OK I see the timing gear cover has the holes & the bolts go through & thread into the cap. That lock plate must be on the outside against the timing cover. Previous owner had installed a cam gear & it still lacks about 3/16" making up to the shoulder it bears against! He MIGHT have been the one to bust that cap flange! And put that pipe wrench on the crank snout to turn with... NONONO! I see you're right to begin with! There are NO THREADS in those holes! The bolts MUST come thru the cap flange from the inside with nuts on the outside! I can see the shadow the lock plate left on the back of the flange upon closer inspection! OK what about that Neoprene rear seal? Is it common to install one of them instead of the rope seals?
The flat plate with the with the mount on the bottom if it has one goes on first. It should have a 3/4” long 1/4” diameter tube sticking out with a pinched end and hole to lube the crank timing gear comes from the front cam bearing. There are different gaskets so you need the correct one. A gasket set usually has at least 2-3. Then the cam with the 2 cap screws with lock washers, then the timing cover. I’ve never seen a neoprene rear seal on a 54 which is the last 235 with shims under the main caps to set the clearance. 54’s leaked oil without adding a PCV system. A Blue Motors Manual up to 1962 can show you everything and explain it..
Andrew, Respect to you for your commitment, and Thanks to the members who can help you get right. Budget36, - 55blacktie,- Ken C,- jimmy six, - Bob Lowry, - saltflats, - raven. All with helpful facts. I was thinking of youthful waste of money on a six and the joy of converting to V8.
Yeah the oiling tube is what the P.O. welded on, it's been pushed rearward so as to bear against the block so no oil can get in the the rear of the tube. I have a 1955 Motors & it shows pushing the fiber cam gear on & setting the end play against the retaining plate. No mention of main bearing cap shims & none were present. Not much ridge & normal wear on the crank. It's gonna get bearings, rings & a valve job & Roll On Down the Highway...
The cam retaining plate clearance to the back of the cam gear is a tough on to do. I believe it’s a max of .008”. Removal is ez with a press. You use the ears of the retaining plate and vee blocks pressing the cam through the gear. For the clearance I’ve used .005” of paper to stop the gear when pressing on cold, then the wetted the paper an got it out with feeler gauges. All a pita …
Yeah my Motors says .003" max...says to install it & stop right before it locks up...sure to be an adventure!
Yeah my Motors goes on to say that the front plate is set to protrude past the front edge of #1 main journal by adding gaskets between the block & the plate until a straight edge laid on the plate clears the journal. Man these aint User Friendly engines Huh?
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